Header to crossover leak

[Boostrules]

Replaced drivers side header (crack between 3 & 5) with Kirbans Ta performance header. Old header flange was not round & connection to crossover pipe leaked. Removed crossover, brought to muffler shop and made round again on drivers side only. Used high temp rtv silicone on both sides of crossover, tightened evenly back & forth on both sides & left it for 24 hours. Initally no leak but after getting into boost a few times drivers side leaking again. I searched and saw a Fel-Pro flange gasket # 23624 as a possible fix. The crossover pipe is not cracked & in good shape. Is it worth trying the flange gasket with some rtv or just get Kirbans 2 piece crossover and be done with it. It kind of sucks that before I just had a slight leak from the header crack (ticking sound) & now a crappy exhaust leak which sounds much worse.

 

[williamsGN]

All you'll lose is 5 and a bit of time if it doesn't work.

 

[Boostrules]

All you'll lose is 5 and a bit of time if it doesn't work.

It's a pita to do this on your back at my age. I was hoping to hear from someone who tried the flange gasket option with success cause I have concerns if the gasket breaks & pieces go thru turbo. Has anyone used Kirbans 2 piece crossover pipe on a stock header setup & are happy with the results (no leaks). Also do you use a band clamp (2.5") to seal the 2 piece crossover pipe? Thanks in advance for any feedback. Only want to remove crossover pipe 1 last time.

 

[Boostrules]

So no one's replaced a crossover pipe or header in the last 7 years? Did a search & that was the most recent date for any advise. Just surprised nobody chimed in with anything helpful.

 

[Nigel]

I would take a closer look at your current crossover and see if it is in fact round. Maybe have a muffler shop hit again, bring the header to make sure it mates up. The passenger side is likely egg shaped which means if you replace the crossover you will have trouble with that side. I replaced my driver side with a TA performance a few years ago, a went through the exercise of getting the crossover pressed round. My crossover has cracked twice on the drivers side and I have welded it to keep it going. The two bolt ball flange wants to egg shape over time, so now the replacement header is also egg shaped at the flange. Since your driver side is still new, you may want to get the crossover and passenger side header from TA and just replace the whole thing. I have never tried gaskets, but I don't think they would last long. Not to hard to try though. I don't know how much longer I am going to milk the old parts, my next move will likely be to replace everything when it breaks again.

 

[Cryptic]

So no one's replaced a crossover pipe or header in the last 7 years? Did a search & that was the most recent date for any advise. Just surprised nobody chimed in with anything helpful.

I recently had to remove my crossover to run new transmission lines. Had a heck of a time with a leak on the driver's side but it was due to the threads on the header side of the flange being rusty and not being able to tighten everything down well on that side. It sounded like crap and the car ran horribly as a result. I'm in the process of doing the rear main seal which requires that crossover to be pulled and having those threads fixed in the process. We will see how it goes. I know on my car before a week ago the crossover pipe hasn't been removed in over 15 years...

 

[Boostrules]

Appreciate the responses & advise. Crossover looked nice & round when I got it back from muffler shop. Maybe it was stretched out when made round again? The passenger side was not egg shaped like the drivers had been so hoping the Kirbans 2 piece crossover pipe with high temp rtv will resolve my issue with leaks. I used new nuts & bolts cause I couldn't get the original bolts to thread onto Kirbans driver side header. Should I use a band clamp to seal the 2 piece crossover or is it supposed fit tight enough to not need anything?

 

[Nigel]

I never used the crossover, you can call TA performance and see what they recommend. May want to have it fitted up and then welded. It will need a clamp or a weld either way.

 

[Boostrules]

I never used the crossover, you can call TA performance and see what they recommend. May want to have it fitted up and then welded. It will need a clamp or a weld either way.

Thanks for your suggestion, called Ta performance & should not need a clamp since it's a slip joint with quite a bit of overlap. Ordered new crossover & hope to resolve my leak problems for good. Thanks all for your help.

 

[Nigel]

Good to know for future reference, let us know how it works out.

 

[Boostrules]

Replaced stock crossover with Ta performance 2 piece crossover. It's larger (2.5 inch) than stock & just fit, almost against the fly wheel dust cover. Since my passenger header was not oval & drivers side is a new Ta header my exhaust leak is gone. It's a very nice piece & with the overlap between the 2 pieces there is no need for a band clamp. Though the original crossover was made round again it was not perfect & you could see where it had been leaking was still out or round a bit. Thanks all for your advice & suggestions. Did quite a few wot pulls from a standstill & 3rd gear & all I hear now is the turbo spooling & the nice sound of the pypes violator mufflers.