broke parts, got bored, BUILT STUFF

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about a 1/8 inch of clearance. ill wedge a peice of steel in there when i do final weld to keep my clearances
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just a little more grinding and itll fit perfect
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with the runner so close on the turbo flange i dont know how much the wastegate is gonna be able to vent the no2 primary. that runner might just be dedicated to turbo spooling buisness lol
 
i went ahead and fully welded the last primary tube then threw the wastegate flange in at a nice angle and location for boost control...it would have been alot better "in theroy" to have control over the no2 primary but space (and in a way, budget) didnt allow for this.

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this set of headers clears a THDP..by about a 1/4 inch. looking at the fit and finish of the stainless headers kinda makes me wanna make a killer downpipe to compliment it...thats the problem with making stuff, you procrastinate about a stopping point lol
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one thing to note about this thread, at no point did i use any "wild fabrication tools", this was done out of my garage at the house which means that everything you see in this thread was done with a sawzall, bench grinder, a vice, a brass hammer, a hole saw/drill, and a tig welder
 
LOL That's what a lot of people don't realize. It really doesn't take that much to do fabrication but it does take an understanding of it and a bit of imagination.:cool:
 
Once I have enough practice welding, I am going to try and make up some headers.. They look like more fun than anything else to fabricate..
 
You just need to develope the skills is all. Practice with simple stuff first and then go from there.:)
pretty much

Once I have enough practice welding, I am going to try and make up some headers.. They look like more fun than anything else to fabricate..
doing a downpipe for our cars is fun. doing headers like in this thread is more of a pain in the butt. if you do make an attempt at headers, might i suggest making a mild steel set first cause its cheaper to mess up. then if you really want to take the dive (cost wise) into stainless headers then you have more info to make a better decision.
 
doing a downpipe for our cars is fun. doing headers like in this thread is more of a pain in the butt. if you do make an attempt at headers, might i suggest making a mild steel set first cause its cheaper to mess up. then if you really want to take the dive (cost wise) into stainless headers then you have more info to make a better decision.
Can't argue with this at all. I'm remaking a set of stainless after market headers but don't need a lot of parts to do it. Drivers side needs different flanges on it for the cross over pipe and the passenger side needs the most. Total reconfiguring of the pipes for the HA set up. Then I've got to do the down pipe and waste gate attachment as well as the up pipe. Not really looking foward to that myself but no one makes the parts I want so.....
 
I still have been considering making my own headers. May I ask where you got your tubing from, and how much of it did you order? Just want to get a ballpark of the materials ill need (probably 2x what you did from mistakes!)

Zack
 
What is the problem using mild 16g for the headers? I was thinking about doing a forward facing setup like I've seen on some s2's.
very nice work slim
 
I still have been considering making my own headers. May I ask where you got your tubing from, and how much of it did you order? Just want to get a ballpark of the materials ill need (probably 2x what you did from mistakes!)

Zack

http://www.globaltecheng.com/ProductCart/pc/viewCategories.asp?idCategory=90

i used them cause the prices are cheap as hell, the bends are a good quality and they dont leave "bending die" grease on the tube. i bought roughly 4 bends for every 3 i could count.



What is the problem using mild 16g for the headers? I was thinking about doing a forward facing setup like I've seen on some s2's.
very nice work slim

the problem it that mild steel over literally one heat cycle becomes fatigued and brittle. then over time they will start to fail. and despite what many say, ive found that coating mild steel headers speeds up the process of failure a little, as the coating inside the tubing always flakes off and the outside coating doesnt, which holds the heat in the material of the tubing (more bad news for mild).
 
i would only use mild steel for a "learning curve" set of headers... or a R/D set that would only be used a few times. then used for mockup.

in the meantime, the cost offset to build your own headers means that stainless material becomes a affordable option too ;)
 
The cost difference between material for Mild steel and stainless isn't as much as you would think. For a set of v6 headers I use 6 x 180* header tube size u bends, a pair of cone engineering collectors and 4 x 2.5" u bends for the crossover. I use mild steel flanges and v-bands even with stainless tube because it warps less. So the cost of the tube and collectors is the only real difference.

Material for a set of 304 stainless headers is about $750
Material for a set of mild steel headers is about $600

After you spend 40 hours cutting, fitting and welding the headers, that $150 won't be a big deal. Coating would be at least twice that. Stainless takes a little more work to weld because you need to backpurge the tubes as you weld them, but you can rent an extra cylinder from your welding shop and they refund the money when you return the bottle. The only time you'll have a big cost difference is when you use 321 stainless. It is easily tripple the material cost.
 
I have never welded stainless before and I am an amateur welder. Still learning, but I am pretty decent. I would be worried I could screw it up. Mild steel wouldn't be too easy to screw up I think.
 
The cost difference between material for Mild steel and stainless isn't as much as you would think. For a set of v6 headers I use 6 x 180* header tube size u bends, a pair of cone engineering collectors and 4 x 2.5" u bends for the crossover. I use mild steel flanges and v-bands even with stainless tube because it warps less. So the cost of the tube and collectors is the only real difference.

Material for a set of 304 stainless headers is about $750
Material for a set of mild steel headers is about $600

After you spend 40 hours cutting, fitting and welding the headers, that $150 won't be a big deal. Coating would be at least twice that. Stainless takes a little more work to weld because you need to backpurge the tubes as you weld them, but you can rent an extra cylinder from your welding shop and they refund the money when you return the bottle. The only time you'll have a big cost difference is when you use 321 stainless. It is easily tripple the material cost.
At those material prices buying a set of TA headers(stock replacement) sounds like a smokin deal unless you are just in it for the challenge, that or building race headers....
 
when i built my stainless headers pictured in this thread, i could have swore the grand total price was around 550-600 total. rjc flanges and all stainless tubing.
 
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