Best way to verify a low mileage GN

[86SS86LS]

A local used car dealer has an 87 Grand National with 35K and is asking $9500. This seems like a reasonable price considering the condition, I haven't seen it up close yet. Because he is a dealer he won't be able to give any history on the car. I plan on doing the usual carfax, but if it only had one or two owners over the past 20 years the car could have seen a lot of miles without the carfax showing any indication of it.
What is the best way to confirm a low mileage vehicle: interior wear, pedal wear, etc.?

 

[salvageV6]

I'd start with the relatively easy stuff, look for replaced mis-painted body panels, rust, matching VIN's on the engine and tranny.

Then again if it's low mileage and been hit and fixed that's a plausible scenario as my car was hit at 18K and fixed nicely. Your choice if you still want it.

Look for the hole in a replaced header panel filled with bondo and painted, carpet wear, options match exactly to the trunk sticker, factory windshield and rear window.

In the engine bay look for stock equipment if so advertised as stock(ish), and look for rounded or replaced fasteners for things you don't think should be off a stocker at low mileage.

Check the exhaust, frame, rear for severe rust or replacement.

Proper interior pieces in place such as carpet color, console color, door panels, etc.

Sounds like a nice car but as you surmise it easily could have an extra 100K or 200K on it.

 

[Gary Wells]

A local used car dealer has an 87 Grand National with 35K and is asking $9500. This seems like a reasonable price considering the condition, I haven't seen it up close yet. Because he is a dealer he won't be able to give any history on the car. I plan on doing the usual carfax, but if it only had one or two owners over the past 20 years the car could have seen a lot of miles without the carfax showing any indication of it.
What is the best way to confirm a low mileage vehicle: interior wear, pedal wear, etc.?

---------------------------------
Turbo Regal Web Site
"Resources", "Buyres Guide"
HTH
--------------------------------
Price sounds low for a nice car with 35K real miles, high for a junker, which might be indicating questionable mileage accuracy.
Carfax & Carcheck, which is what most dealers use for history.
There is no reason why a dealer can't give any history on the car.
A dealer has access to at least the same amount of history that you do, generally more. They just don't want you to know that
Salvage title?
Carfax &/or Carcheck ever show that the vehicle was ever on a Salvage title?
Does he state that the car has 35k miles, or does he state that the speedometer has or indicates 35K miles, or will he say, "Well, that's what the speedo shows/says?
Steering wheel wear?
Interior & pedal wear?
Windshield condition, is this a brand new windshield (oops), a 35K mile windshield, or a 135K mile windshield?
Quantity of nicks & dings on outside of body?
Still have what appears to be a working original powermaster brake system?
Early or late version of the Powermaster accumulator bowl & accumulator switch?
Early or late version of the power steering resevoir or updated version?
underneath condition?
original paint/how many paint jobs?
how much bondo?
How much wear on the steering column from keys swinging against it?
Interior original?
Turn indicator stalk condition? Still have original chrome in good condition?

 

[turbofish38]

The easiest way to verify it is to fly me round trip to SD! Okay, heres plan B. These cars are money pits even if they aren't driven hard. Look for any indication that a wrench has been on a nut or bolt. Check out what bolt on mods it has. I.e.RamAir,gutted cats,3" exhaust,etc. Check to see if some of the more common replacement parts have been replaced. This might be hard unless you know what to look for. This is what I call the real numbers matching test. The starter,AC compressor and alternator have a part number stamped on them. Look for original OEM style gaskets and sloppy RTV. The valve covers will be cork,the intake bare aluminum shim and the oil pan is black rubber. These are all gaskets that are visable from the outside. Has the trans pan been dropped? The OEM gasket is black cellulose(sp). Is there RTV or a Blue aftermarket gasket on the rear cover? How much surface rust is on the frame and suspension? Is there rust on the bottoms of the door. Do the seat bottoms match and do they match the rear seat? Thats a sure sign of low mileage and garage kept. I dont know how far you want to go but one item I always point out to the schmo trying to pull the low mileage scam on me is brake pads and shoes. OEM is riveted and has compound type inked on the side. 35K should be almost new looking.I could on for hours but you get the drift on what to look for.

 

[vintageracer]

Good advice above. I would not be so concerned about the low miles on the car as I would does the price match the condition of the car? Sure, a lot of these cars were babied and sat a longtime. A lot of GN's were also trashed/wrecked/rebuilt etc and sat for a longtime and therefore have low mileage.

The ABSOLUTE WORST CARS I have ever owned are low mileage old cars. An old car with low miles can be and usually is a money pit as noted above. I know there are lot's of people who are overwhelmed by low mileage cars. For a trailer queen to show, maybe? For a car to drive and enjoy, most times no.

Forget about the supposed low miles on the car and look VERY hard at the condition. PAY a pro to look at the car for you if you are not turbo knowlegable or are unsure. Paying a pro to look at the car will be the best money you spend in this transaction!

 

[Nick Micale]

The "best" way is to contact the previous owner, or owners, to find out the approx mileage when they had the car.

It is very easy for a dealer, or anyone, to get a signed mileage statement for a used car that old. If you want to just resell the car, no big deal. But if you want to own a REAL low mileage GN, then you need to check further [and the dealer will probably be NO help there?].

I have already dealt with a couple dealer-purchased, "low mileage" GN's, that I know were at least 100K miles more than showing.

Remember this rule in buying a used car [or most anything], if the deal sounds too good to be true, it probably is not.:smile: