Before Black BS'ing thread.

charlief1 said:
Well I pretty much stayed out of it last year and have been really crabby lately. I need to have a little fun and the last cold front brought some of them down this way finally.:cool:
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sounds like you need a little female healing charlie.

might be time for a hot date brother.

lol

no crabby then!

A.j.
 
charlief1 said:
Wont argue there Aj but the cash factor isn't there.:biggrin: Besides, with my luck I'd catch something.:frown:
Click to expand...

YOU need to talk to ME.... I hook people up all of the time, I even hooked up a couple in middle school who are trying to get married now. Im like Hitch, but not a liar, and not Will Smith.
 
lol Ramone....lol.
hey body men; what should i do to bring back the factory shine from an 83 GM single stage paintjob? the car in question is the Ciera lol; but here's the link to the album full of the most recent pics
1983 Ciera Coupe
as you can see; its got SOME shine back from the washing and most notably, on the sides...however, the upper surface is duller than the sides, and the trunk lid is the worse offender in terms of finish...

related note; Dr Frankenstein, how is the turbo Super Duty thing going? and the LUV?
 
Well I dropped $160 for a quarter for my jeep, but I found out that it has an electric EGR controller. So Thats my other 1/2 to my PEVR. Only bad thing is NAPA doesnt carry one. Might go to the other parts store in town and ask. Hopefully it doenst cost $80 like that stupid crown vic canister purge valve.

If not I can go to a salvage yard and grab one. At least I know where the EGR solenoid is on a Jeep. Dug around for the canister purge valve on a 88 crown vic, but couldnt even find the canister.

So a switch that turns on at 3 inches, and a EGR solenoid off a jeep cherokee. Seems like a simple replacment part to me.
 
CamoDeafie said:
lol Ramone....lol.
hey body men; what should i do to bring back the factory shine from an 83 GM single stage paintjob? the car in question is the Ciera lol; but here's the link to the album full of the most recent pics
1983 Ciera Coupe
as you can see; its got SOME shine back from the washing and most notably, on the sides...however, the upper surface is duller than the sides, and the trunk lid is the worse offender in terms of finish...

related note; Dr Frankenstein, how is the turbo Super Duty thing going? and the LUV?
Click to expand...

I havent done much to the Luv lately.... funds have been tight with the new house coming along.... and well the women have been bleeding me dry too.

The blower Kits are almost complete, need to machine the last of the crank spacers and they will be available... so buick blower kits are on the way next.

The Super Duty has been where most of my time has been spent... with the parts availability very quickly dissapearing its getting harder to build her by the week. bearings, rods, stupid little things, havent been made in 20 years already... so its ben a challange.

however, so far.... things are looking good. and right now I have an expiramental motor about to be ready to assemble. and since this is a buick forum, i dont think there are too many SD guys around so I can spill a few beans. the idea here was for pure data.... if it holds... well great... means more power for the actual SD block. I only have 2.... I cant risk f-ucking them up.

OK...

the foundation: I used a 91 postal truck production block, best stocker out there you can find. after inspection, I used deck ticklers to machine it and bored .030 over. this leaves my walls kinda thin, but thats the idea... i need to see its limits at that wall thickness. 2 things these have issues with, oiling and warpage. the deck was plugged with corks and tape, block rolled over and a 3/4" of hard block added to the deck from the water jacket, this will help stabalize the deck under boost. same goes for the bottom of the bores as well. all of the block side main saddles have a.050 groove added to about 3/4s of the saddle... this allows me to drill 4 extra holes in the bearing... giving the rods a better chance at oil. inside all deburred and coated in epoxy paint.

Crank, well it is a genuine PMS forged crank, fully counterweighted ans knife edged. since rods and bearings were such a pain to obtain, I have made adjustments, I had the rod journals turned down to chevy 2.0's, this allows me to use a more common bearing, and I had the journal offset ground to add some stroke, finalizes at 3.30. the rods are LONGER then stock, i cant say cause the formula for the particular rod length is secret but I do notch the fron side of each rod with a 30* triangle cut.... this causes the rod to spray the cylinder and piston with oil... promoting cooling (*hint hint... i do it to buicks too*). pistons are off the shelf turbo units that are very light... and reverse dome. the idea, behind the offset grind and the special rods pistons are to obtain a 1.90-1 rod stroke ratio.... which theroetically should unload the cylinder bores enough to make 30+ lbs of boost possible on stock bores.

cylinder head... not sure yet.... torn between a super duty head and trying to see what i can get out of the stocker... so who knows.

to date, thats where were at.... superduty is leading the pack right now...

thats my little big penis. LMAO

:rolleyes:A.j.
 
NICE. didnt the 87+ blocks have a balance shaft put into them? I don't mind turboing the Iron in my ciera, BUT since it's my DD....I need to leave it alone until i have another DD lol. (or until i acquire AND finish the 82 3.0 ciera, whichever comes first)
 
CamoDeafie said:
NICE. didnt the 87+ blocks have a balance shaft put into them? I don't mind turboing the Iron in my ciera, BUT since it's my DD....I need to leave it alone until i have another DD lol. (or until i acquire AND finish the 82 3.0 ciera, whichever comes first)
Click to expand...

LOL

only the fwd blocks used a balance shaft, but they also got the nice ass gerorater oil pump.... super cool deal.

from what i understand, you can swap a RWD block into SOME fwd applications, but in your case... i dont think you can. I believe your block is a hair shorter than the regular block.

biggest issue is the stock crank, wont hold even a good tune and a 4bbl in front of it without turning into gum! lol

A.j.
 
really. I was under the impression that the 2.5L Tech IV (tech 4) Iron Dukes were the same size from FWD to RWD, and as such, can use the S10 block or crank; according to Fiero forums, specifically the 2M4 forum.
 
CamoDeafie said:
lol Ramone....lol.
hey body men; what should i do to bring back the factory shine from an 83 GM single stage paintjob? the car in question is the Ciera lol; but here's the link to the album full of the most recent pics
1983 Ciera Coupe
as you can see; its got SOME shine back from the washing and most notably, on the sides...however, the upper surface is duller than the sides, and the trunk lid is the worse offender in terms of finish...

related note; Dr Frankenstein, how is the turbo Super Duty thing going? and the LUV?
Click to expand...

it looks good already, but if you want to make it shine better wet sand it with 1500 then 2000 and buff it.
 
what about using stuf like the Meguiars' clay bar, or is that mainly for CC finishes? I have a friend who swears by Meguiars' Professional Grade machine buffing system, which includes Heavy Cut compound, polishing compound, synth sealant and then wax...?
 
CamoDeafie said:
what about using stuf like the Meguiars' clay bar, or is that mainly for CC finishes? I have a friend who swears by Meguiars' Professional Grade machine buffing system, which includes Heavy Cut compound, polishing compound, synth sealant and then wax...?
Click to expand...

you can do that, but the meguiars polishing system cost alot. i think the car look good already i would not even mess with it.
 
I see. hmm. just, as a learning bodyman, and used to the high shine finishes on other cars, I'd like the shine to be higher...the sides are pretty good already, but the upper surfaces like i said....I will be checking the prices of the stuff to compare against the wet sanding method....:) I've a friend who brought back factory shine from the severe oxidization of paint on his 85 6000 using 3 Meguiars products, I think #1 or #4, heavy cut, then #9 Swirl Remover and finally #21 Synth Sealant; all hand applied, (I couldn't find reference online about hand applied Heavy Cut, but only Machine apply #4 heavy cut?); and then another friend, the guy with the 84 Turbo Century FWD car, he used a power ball with I think just the Meguiars Carnauba cleaner wax; so it seems maybe somehwere in between these 2 methods, or the wet sanding thing might be doable..will need to research the prices and amount of labor to compare :)
anyways! carb buicks thing! am going to check out the Regal in Brooks at a sort of abused old car lot that have cars for cheap, and see which engine it has and if its for sale and at a cheap price if at all
 
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