Before Black BS'ing thread.

mat231v6 said:
so, bead blasting them will work? i need them to get this clean.
Click to expand...
absolutly, just need to mask critical areas.

dont let the bead get inside the caliper....... it will die the first time you try it if you do... just seal it really well.

cover the areas where the bearings ride on the spindle with tape, as well as where the BJ attach. then spray away and be happy in 20 minutes.
 
I use blasting for really rusty parts Matt. That's why I came up with the chemicals to remove rust. Some areas are just to large to stick in my blaster. You can also dilute the stuff in a bucket and put the parts in and let them sit until they're clean. Then pull them out of the bucket and rinse with water, degrease, and paint.;)
 
How much power can the stock pistons handle... the Hyper-Eu-tec-tic pistons I was instructed were a little brittle from the factory.

Last question. IF the intake manifold was ported, would you have to get a gasket set to match the port job or would the factory gasket be adequite enough? or would the gasket have to be trimmed?
 
83turbomon said:
How much power can the stock pistons handle... the Hyper-Eu-tec-tic pistons I was instructed were a little brittle from the factory.

Last question. IF the intake manifold was ported, would you have to get a gasket set to match the port job or would the factory gasket be adequite enough? or would the gasket have to be trimmed?
Click to expand...

yea they are a little brittle, but how many GNs are still running on factory shortblocks making solid 11 and 10 sec 1/4s. so i would say safe to assume 400 to 500 hp before the limit gets pushed.

just opening up the intake to match the factory gasket would be well enough. opening up the intake larger wouldnt benifit you much.
 
dr_frankenstein said:
LMAO, thats a good one!
Click to expand...
Took you a while Aj.:p

Hypers don't like detonation and that's usually kills them. Several guys on the board are running them but if you've ever been over to TBs and look at the write up on the 4.1, he killed several engines because he used hypers instead of forged. He's out of Buicks now so that's a good thing and more than a few guys have tried his "recipe" and found it works but you have to stay on top of the tune or it will kill the engine.:eek:
 
charlief1 said:
Took you a while Aj.:p

Hypers don't like detonation and that's usually kills them. Several guys on the board are running them but if you've ever been over to TBs and look at the write up on the 4.1, he killed several engines because he used hypers instead of forged. He's out of Buicks now so that's a good thing and more than a few guys have tried his "recipe" and found it works but you have to stay on top of the tune or it will kill the engine.:eek:
Click to expand...

it will depend on the tuners ability to decide the pistons, but forged pistons wont save a rod bearing from the same detonation and theres a better chance a rod will spin before a piston shatters. bottom dollar being the key thing here, the 480$ rebuild kit from summit with hypers would easily fit the ticket for atleast 350-400hp.

i dunno, penny for penny, in a build under 400hp i dont think the tuning window would be that small, these numbers can be made within 10lbs of boost.... well within 91 octane limits..... proper ignition and carburation will still be required though.... and thats where I would spend the money.
 
dr_frankenstein said:
it will depend on the tuners ability to decide the pistons, but forged pistons wont save a rod bearing from the same detonation and theres a better chance a rod will spin before a piston shatters. bottom dollar being the key thing here, the 480$ rebuild kit from summit with hypers would easily fit the ticket for atleast 350-400hp.

i dunno, penny for penny, in a build under 400hp i dont think the tuning window would be that small, these numbers can be made within 10lbs of boost.... well within 91 octane limits..... proper ignition and carburation will still be required though.... and thats where I would spend the money.
Click to expand...

thats the biggest issue im finding now is the knock control. The stock system (im assuming) is still working or else the car would have killed itself by now. But the previous owner fubared the wiring and vacuum lines up soo badly that the wiring diagram charlie sent to me didnt help me. Rich mentioned not ripping out the emissons system, imho its already been hacked apart, missing, and rather smelly, and just want to take out whats left.

long story short, you mentioned knocksense... where can it be found?? did some research on ebay and google and couldnt find it. Can you find me a link? and maybe a pointer to the BPRV Holley? The rebuild kit I found a jegs.
 
83turbomon said:
thats the biggest issue im finding now is the knock control. The stock system (im assuming) is still working or else the car would have killed itself by now. But the previous owner fubared the wiring and vacuum lines up soo badly that the wiring diagram charlie sent to me didnt help me. Rich mentioned not ripping out the emissons system, imho its already been hacked apart, missing, and rather smelly, and just want to take out whats left.

long story short, you mentioned knocksense... where can it be found?? did some research on ebay and google and couldnt find it. Can you find me a link? and maybe a pointer to the BPRV Holley? The rebuild kit I found a jegs.
Click to expand...

Knock sense, guys super hard to find.... but he will answer if you are patient http://www.viatrack.ca/
for the BRPV, its simple to mod the carb for, but before you get to that we need to see what model and type of carb.
 
83turbomon said:
can you post a pic of yours?? this shiz looks a little crazy to rig up. Do you have to buy your own knock sensor?
Click to expand...

what do you want to see? the knock sensor or the box?

yes you have to provide your own knock sensor. it does require a fair bit of work to get operating right, lots of trial and error establishing the correct sensitivity, but cheapest and easiest to use stand alone knock detection out there.
 
dr_frankenstein said:
what do you want to see? the knock sensor or the box?

yes you have to provide your own knock sensor. it does require a fair bit of work to get operating right, lots of trial and error establishing the correct sensitivity, but cheapest and easiest to use stand alone knock detection out there.
Click to expand...

The setup, but mainly the box. Is there a way to adjust sensitivity or is it programmed to factory specs? From the Turbobrick forums its for a Volvo.
 
Car Broke down in the Middle of traffic on a Major road that turns onto a freeway, had to push my car across 4 lanes of traffic and watch people in thier Air conditioned cars lean on thier horns, while im burning my ass of. Finally some guy comes out of nowhere and tells his son "get your ass out here and help me out" and does me a favor of swearing at traffic for me while we push a car with its New engine in the trunk. When I tell him he laughs his ass of. some lady in a busted SUV pushes me off the road and offers me a ride, and I point at my house, I live right there, with my luck this would happen...

Long Story short, if your gonna store your car, make sure theres good gas in it, and make sure you keep the battery on a trickle charger... itll save you later.
 
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