Bad lifter(s) or oil problem?

[fastblackracing]

No need to worry about the fittings blocking anything they are not near any cross passages.
Now that the problem is fixed you can just relax and enjoy your car!!!

 

[earlbrown]

Did you modify your fittings at all? Grind them shorter for the passenger side since it feeds the rods and mains?

The only time you really have to worry about depth is the PS front fitting. If you tap those holes for a pipe plug you have to watch your depth on that one else it will choke off everything but the turbo.

Your rear fittings are nowhere near a tappet feed hole so you should be good to go.

 

[Chevman2448]

The only time you really have to worry about depth is the PS front fitting. If you tap those holes for a pipe plug you have to watch your depth on that one else it will choke off everything but the turbo.

Your rear fittings are nowhere near a tappet feed hole so you should be good to go.

Thanks (earl and fastblackracing)!! Ill put it back together.

 

[earlbrown]

You've got some of my pistons in that build, don't you?

 

[Chevman2448]

You've got some of my pistons in that build, don't you?

I sure do. Got it all back together this morning. Started it for a few seconds (sealant wasnt cured yet) and it runs great. No more ticking.

 

[earlbrown]

Have you noticed the exhaust has a little extra 'pop' wile it's running?


i spend a lot of time with my piston engineer trying to minimize the amount of ignition advance and I think I might have did too good of a job.

 

[Chevman2448]

Have you noticed the exhaust has a little extra 'pop' wile it's running?


i spend a lot of time with my piston engineer trying to minimize the amount of ignition advance and I think I might have did too good of a job.

Its very noticeable at idle. Sounds more like a muscle car now. Part of that is the cam too. I drove it yesterday (test/tune) and it flys. It doesn't take much to get up to speed. Just have to get the VE table right and it will be good to go. Thinking I might take it to a local tune shop and have it done.

 

[earlbrown]

I notice mine the most at cruise. Since you changed a cam, your recollection isn't exactly scientific, but I pulled my engine and only changed the slugs.

for a car I've drove since '98 with a single shot I installed around '99 I know the sounds it makes. At cruse around 60 or 70 I can defiantly tell there's more 'pop' heading down the exhaust.

I'm glad you like yours. The more I play with these slugs, the more I like them

 

[turbolou]

Very Interesting read, I just ran into the very same problem today doing a 4.1 but caught it in the early stages of the build. Also have a comp roller cam with no groove. After reading this I'm conflicted as to groove the cam or do the cross over tube to resolve the issue. The point about the front cam bearing wear is valid and I'm leaning more towards the tube idea which is a clever fix.

 

[earlbrown]

If you know it's an issue to start with you can groove the block on the #1 journal right off the bat.

That way you can clock the bearing to give oil in the right place and still oil the DS lifter bores.


That data is only good for rollers for what Comp Cams told me. From what I understand the flat cams have a groove in the front journal to decrease loaded area and it may or may not line up with the oil hole to feed that side.

Moral of the story, I'd just groove the block. It only takes a few seconds

 

[turbolou]

Very Interesting read, I just ran into the very same problem today doing a 4.1 but caught it in the early stages of the build. Also have a comp roller cam with no groove. After reading this I'm conflicted as to groove the cam or do the cross over tube to resolve the issue. The point about the front cam bearing wear is valid and I'm leaning more towards the tube idea which is a clever fix. Another overlooked issue with a comp cam is the incompatibility with the cam sensor gear & the cam casting which Comp warns about in their instructions.

 

[ek02]

Very Interesting read, I just ran into the very same problem today doing a 4.1 but caught it in the early stages of the build. Also have a comp roller cam with no groove. After reading this I'm conflicted as to groove the cam or do the cross over tube to resolve the issue. The point about the front cam bearing wear is valid and I'm leaning more towards the tube idea which is a clever fix.

TA Performance rear groove cam bearings work for me to get oil to the drivers side lifters with a comp roller without the groove, plus they put the oil holes in what they say is a better position. The crossover tube or grooving the block works the same too.

 

[Chevman2448]

I notice mine the most at cruise. Since you changed a cam, your recollection isn't exactly scientific, but I pulled my engine and only changed the slugs.

for a car I've drove since '98 with a single shot I installed around '99 I know the sounds it makes. At cruse around 60 or 70 I can defiantly tell there's more 'pop' heading down the exhaust.

I'm glad you like yours. The more I play with these slugs, the more I like them

I havent been able to cruise with mine because of the tune so im still feeling it out. Once I drive it ill notice it. Im just glad im getting it sorted out, considering all the issues the car had when I got it.

 

[turbolou]

Very Interesting read, I just ran into the very same problem today doing a 4.1 but caught it in the early stages of the build. Also have a comp roller cam with no groove. After reading this I'm conflicted as to groove the cam or do the cross over tube to resolve the issue. The point about the front cam bearing wear is valid and I'm leaning more towards the tube idea which is a clever fix.QUOTE

Well that fix worked out well it turned out to be a good coincidence that this was posted at the same time I discovered the problem. Thanks all !

 

[Chevman2448]

Glad the forum helped. Mine works great now. Except it has 20 psi oil pressure at idle and 50 at cruise. I imagine thats good enough its lower than im used to at idle.

 

[earlbrown]

You need less that 10PSI per 1000 at idle and you have 20.....


Sometimes first world problems are hard

 

[Chevman2448]

You need less that 10PSI per 1000 at idle and you have 20.....


Sometimes first world problems are hard

I have your oil pump kit and did your front cover mods.

I still want to put the thrust plate on it so I dont wear down the face of the adapter.

 

[turbolou]

Glad the forum helped. Mine works great now. Except it has 20 psi oil pressure at idle and 50 at cruise. I imagine thats good enough its lower than im used to at idle.

20 psi at idle is excellent and a good indication of proper clearances that is what Buick engine builders strive for.

 

[fastblackracing]

Very Interesting read, I just ran into the very same problem today doing a 4.1 but caught it in the early stages of the build. Also have a comp roller cam with no groove. After reading this I'm conflicted as to groove the cam or do the cross over tube to resolve the issue. The point about the front cam bearing wear is valid and I'm leaning more towards the tube idea which is a clever fix.

Lou the rear cross tube works great and IMO better than the grooved block or front cam journal
since it is a positive connection to the supply oil galley and does not rely on groove alignment or
oil hole alignment to accomplish oil flow.

You can have a solid 3/16" - 5/16" feed hole size restriction depending on what tube size
is used to feed the drivers side lifter bank which is much bigger than the front block
groove or cam groove restriction size is.

And after seeing the difference in front cam bearing wear I will never use a grooved front journal
cam again.

 

[Chevman2448]

20 psi at idle is excellent and a good indication of proper clearances that is what Buick engine builders strive for.

WOW....thats good to know. Ill chalk it up as beginners luck.