Bad AC compressor? Help

8

86grandntl

New Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2011
I have a 1986 grand national with the touch screen ac controls. I went to start my car last week and the car would not stay running for more than about three seconds. The serpentine belt was smoking. After taking off the air intake and serpentine belt and inspecting all the pulleys, I found that the ac compressor pulley was completely locked up and really hot. Is this an indication of the ac compressor being bad? I have been warned by people not to buy a remanufactured compressor and the only new compressor that I can find is an AC Delco for the c60 manual control cars from highwaystars.net. Could I put that compressor on my car with the touch screen ac controls? And if so, would I be able to do this job by myself? The car doesn't drive and I wouldn't be able to get it to a shop.

Also, I don't know if it helps answer any questions but for about the last month or so there was a very loud squeal coming from the serpentine belt area of the engine when the car is running. My mechanic told me it was the idler pulley and I put a new one on but the squeal continued. The air hasn't blown cold in a while as well. I did have the ac compressor replaced about two or three years ago but I fear that it has went again. Any information would be really helpful. Thank you, Justin
 
I have the touch screen AC in my 86 and purchased the Compressor from Highway stars and haven't had any issues. I have upgraded to 134A but did that years ago.
 
It's either the compressor itself or the idler bearing. If the clutch is disengaged and you still can't turn the pulley then the idler bearing is bad. If it only seizes when the clutch is engaged then it's the compressor itself.
 
Thank you very much for the information. I assume that the clutch is disengaged since the A/C is turned off and I cannot turn the pulley so that means that the idler pulley bearing must be bad. Does anyone know where I can get some information on how to replace it and where I can get the parts from? Thank you again.
 
just to clarify, the idler pulley turns fine, but the pulley that is connected to the ac compressor is locked up.
 
The compressor clutch bearing may be locked up if the A/C is off and the pulley will not turn. If you can turn the compressor drive plate but not the pulley with the belt off, then it is the clutch bearing. You can replace the clutch or just the bearing, but you will need a clutch removal and installation tool.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the help everybody. I really don't know anything about the ac compressors so i'm trying to learn as much as I can as I go. I have the serpentine belt off and the ac compressor pully does not turn. I can't get anything to turn on the ac compressor. The air conditioning is off and i'm starting to thing that maybe just replacing the whole compressor may be my best bet at getting my car running. I just fear that I will be getting myself into a lot more work if I do that since a lot of people recommend replacing the ac condenser and getting the system recharged once everything is back together. I was trying to avoid that if possible but my car is really monopolizing my garage right now and I have to get it running somehow soon. I took the center nut off what I thought was the compressor clutch but I could not remove anything from the compressor to check anything else, Justin
 
(1)Join Advance perks
(2) wait for 25% off coupon via email
(3) buy compressor, drier, orifice tube
(4) get system charged and enjoy cool air and lifetime warranty on compressor
 
To do it right, the system should be evacuated and then the compressor can be changed. I've gone through a few compressors in the 9 yrs I've owned the car. Change the drier, orifice tube also. You might also want to flush the system. Do a leak test and then charge it up. To do all this correctly, you'll have to have a good AC man and the proper ac equipment. The proper machine can be found in a well equipped ac shop. I bought a compressor and some other stuff from Highway Stars and it all seems to be first class.
I've tried to take short cuts and save some bucks, but it cost way more in the long run and it was a pain in the ass. Also, when changing out a compressor, the proper amount of oil has to be added which has to be calculated correctly. There's a lot more involved than you might think......ask me how I know...
 
GNRick said:
(1)Join Advance perks
(2) wait for 25% off coupon via email
(3) buy compressor, drier, orifice tube
(4) get system charged and enjoy cool air and lifetime warranty on compressor
Click to expand...



When you first join speedperks, use 'welcome' as the discount code. It's a good one. Too bad it only works once.
 
The lines looked good on my system but when it was quiet in my garage, I moved the lines to remove my intake breather and heard the leak.

If you need the seals, I found them at NAPA. At one time, they would come with a new compressor.

I have an extra set of lines from The Parts Place, if you need them.

Tip when you install the dryer. Loosen or remove the clamps completely and install the lines first. Start the "short and curved line " first.
 
GNRick said:
(1)Join Advance perks
(2) wait for 25% off coupon via email
(3) buy compressor, drier, orifice tube
(4) get system charged and enjoy cool air and lifetime warranty on compressor
Click to expand...

Same here... working great


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Ive done many and only use Delco and Napa NEW COMPRESSORS
got tired of doing it twice
 
Thank you everyone for all your help! I finally got my new ac compressor, drier, and orifice tube. I believe my car was switched over to R134a about two years ago when I had the last AC compressor replaced so I purchased a 16oz container of AC Delco 15-118 PAG oil from Amazon that should be here soon. The instructions on my compressor stated that it comes without any oil in it, and to use AC Delco 15-118 PAG oil if you use R134a and AC Delco 15-117 mineral oil if you're still running R-12. My mechanic's plan is to have my car towed to his shop, replace the ac compressor, drier, and orifice tube then drive the car to the AC shop down the road so they can pull vacuum on the system and recharge it. My mechanic told me that because the AC compressor is completely seized up, that means that there is no more Freon in the system and it is now ok to start replacing the parts. Is this accurate? The reason I am asking is because it would be totally pointless to have my car towed to his shop only to find out it has to go to the AC shop first to get evacuated. This would mean my car would be stuck at my mechanic's shop. Thanks for any info guys.
 
UPDATE:

Because the AC compressor was completely seized up there was no more Freon in the system. I successfully removed the old compressor from the car. However, there is a small two prong electrical connector on the back of the old compressor that did not come with my new compressor held in place by a snap ring. Does this electrical connector get swapped over to my new unit? And when does the PAG oil get applied and where to? Thank you very much
 
Can't it be driven a short way without the belt? Not sure how far your mechanic is from you. They were saying on Facebook that R12 is colder than R134a. You might want to check eBay and Craigslist for R12. It really isn't that expensive.
 
The brand new accumulator drier that I bought from highway stars has a shrader valve in it. Being that my car was converted to r134a a while ago, my car has a r134 adapter on it. My old accumulator drier had the old Schrader valve removed so that he new r134a adapter could be used. Does anyone know how I can remove the Schrader valve from my new accumulator drier so I can install my r134a adaptor? I assume there is a tool I can buy from the auto parts store. Thanks
 
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