Anyone try these nozzles?

Do they sell individual nozzles? Cost? I'm still trying to decide what nozles to use on the system I'm putting together. Most have the threads on the wrong end except AQUAMIST and NOS nozzles. How does everyone mount theirs?
 
Bete makes a quality nozzle. The other company that makes good nozzles is Spraying Systems. I've used a bunch of nozzles from both company's at work. High quality. You can also choose your metallurgy. I don't know if either company sells direct to consumers, but I can't see why not. I'm thinking of trying some nozzles from McMaster-Carr. They have some inexpensive ones with and integral strainer to help prevent plugage. I would think a nozzle plugging up at 22 or 23 pounds of boost would be a BAD thing on pump gas.:eek: I was also thinking of rigging up an "alky pressure low" switch that would drop your boost if you lose alky pressure.
 
Guys..........before you get too excited about this type of nozzel, it probably costs a small fortune. Take a look at oil furnace nozzels. A 90 degree cone spray pattern nozzel at 3 to 6 gph is only about $3.........you'll be amazed at the pattern.....at only 100 psi....hook it up to a SureFlo pump with a piece of rubber hose. I have 4 of them hooked up in two stages. Two come on at 4 psi the other two come on at 15 psi.....the performance is absolutely amazing. No transitional knock.

The picture of the fog comming from the nozzel in that add is likely at 1000 psi.... to good to be true, but that's advertizing.
 
The nozzles are actually not too bad. About $15 in 303 stainless. I'll report the results when I get them to test.
 
I wanted quick change nozzels for tuning, and found brass 6 gph nozzels really easy to tap and machine. I round the corners off the jet then tap the nozzel with a #18 5/8" tap. (This screws into a 5/8" nut I welded into my up pipe) I take the oil jet apart and tap a 90 degree an-3 elbow into it. Then hook up an an-3 stainless braided line attached to a NOS fuel solenoid hooked to a hobbs switch. Pretty trick......and looks awesome too.....the WOW factor is worth it alone.

I tried to tap stainless ......once..........and never again. It near destroyed my tap and vice. Got some cool pics of the whole system for those interested. Cheers. R.
 
Just finished testing the PJ40 nozzle (303 stainless and 1/8NPT). It works as advertised. On a Shurflo pump it threw out a ULTRA FINE mist. Kicks the crap out of even the McMaster/SMC nozzles (which I have also tested), with double the flow, and no moving parts (the inside of the McMaster nozzles have a spring and a flow vane). I'm having a friend video record a demonstration. These DO NOT have any sort of tail to worry about, just 1/8NPT thread.

I'd recommend these as the nozzle to get.
 
did you get any extras?;):D

i want to go with a staged dual nozzle setup...
 
anarkey, you tested these at 100 psi right? can you test at 60 psi which is what the shurflo pump puts out (at least the one i was told to get does)?

thanks:)
 
Anybody who wants to see my 4 nozzle, 2-stage, 100 psi ShureFlo system which is cheep to make yourself and works unbelieveably well.........e-mail me at kjun@telusplanet.net This is a true fully adjustable "set-it-and-forget" it system that hasn't failed me yet. I've seen 25lbs. boost with no detonation. (50/50 ethanol/water)
 
Well I got a video to download showing the mist it gives off if anyone would like to host it.

Yeah WFO, I have one spare at the moment, and will be ordering more soon.
 
BTW, there is nothing wrong with bypassing the pressure switch on the Shurflo, and running it flat out. It won't pulse that way, and will have MUCH more pressure, and flow. Just make sure the nozzle or nozzles are rated for at least .4gpm@100psi or so. You could run the smaller Shurflo pump with a .3pgm@100psi setup I'd think.

So far, hasn't hurt my pump at all. It operates at real high pressures (150psi or more), but it looked fine when I tore it down. I really like these pumps, built strong, high quality, insane flow, and so far methanol proof.
 
Anarkey- You must be running a return line huh? I just have my pump flowing to the solenoid.

Gary
 
Derek and everyone. Derek's movie clip of the Bete nozzle spray pattern is now up on my website. Just look for it in the index in the Alky section. That's a nice fog type spray. I assume that it was tested at over 100 psi for the clip. Any additional info that you want me to put with the movie clip is fine with me. Just email me with any other details and I'll cut and paste and throw it on the website.
 
Originally posted by AnArKey
BTW, there is nothing wrong with bypassing the pressure switch on the Shurflo, and running it flat out. It won't pulse that way, and will have MUCH more pressure, and flow. Just make sure the nozzle or nozzles are rated for at least .4gpm@100psi or so. You could run the smaller Shurflo pump with a .3pgm@100psi setup I'd think.

So far, hasn't hurt my pump at all. It operates at real high pressures (150psi or more), but it looked fine when I tore it down. I really like these pumps, built strong, high quality, insane flow, and so far methanol proof.
Click to expand...

I did have a problem when I originally hooked up my Shurflo pump a few years ago. I had no return line at first and I wired the pump to not use the pressure switch. What would happen was it would keep blowing fuses whenever it tried to start pumping if the system still had pressure in it. I had a check valve in the line that helped keep pressure in the system. Of course the pressure would gradually bleed off through the nozzles so that wasn't a good thing.
 
Nope, no return. Just pump->stainless line->check valve->nozzle. On my car I control the pump speed with PWM through the stand alone computer (AEM EMS), into a high speed solid state relay, to the pump. I start it at very low flow at 4psi, getting stronger with RPM and boost till it maxes at peak horsepower at 29psi. Yes, I run 29psi on pump gas all the time. Fun stuff.

I didn't want to run a solenoid, they don't flow very well, and would introduce over 10psi of pressure drop at my flow levels, and it's another thing to have to wire up, that may fail. The check valve I use is rated at 1.4 cv factor, with the solenoids being like .17 cv factor (which sucks).
 
Yeah Bob if you don't have big enough nozzles on the Shurflo, it will get pushed into VERY high pressures (over 200psi) and current comsumption keeps going up with pressure, which is why you were blowing fuses. You can't use a pump that wants to flow 1GPH through a nozzle that flows .25GPM. You have to match the nozzle and pump flow rates to the point they intersect at 150psi or so. I use a 10AMP fuse and only blew it once, so I'd guess my current comsumption at peak is just around and sometimes a touch over 10AMPs. I run a 15AMP fuse now and have no problems.

Also I run 100% methanol, which has a viscosity of .59cp, vs water at 1cp and ethanol at 1.19cp. That changes things too. Methanol will flow more through a givin nozzle, and break into smaller particles. It also has a much better evaporation rate, which also works in our favor.

Telling you guys, methanol rocks. It's better in every respect than ethanol, expect corrosion. So far on my setup, it doesn't hurt a thing. Well it killed the check valves, but I switched to ones with Buna seals, and they hold up fine. Had one sitting in methanol for a week and it looks brand new, no swelling.

BTW, I get inlet temps below 20F on a 80F day.

Oh for those of you who don't know, I don't have a GN anymore. This is on a large single turbo MKIV Supra. I love this car. Making 650RWHP on the street fricking rocks. :D
 
sideslip- does your 4 point, multi stage alky injection setup make it more streetable or make it not bog as much as a single nozzle setup? BTW it looks great:)

anarkey- i thought i saw you on supraforums awhile ago. is your car an auto or manual? ever run it at the track? what kinda turbo is on it now? sounds pretty cool:)
 
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