Any tips for replacing the valve cover gaskets?

Last night I unbolted my valve covers and tried to remove them. On the passenger side, the back end of the valve cover is getting caught on the fire wall. On the driver's side, it keeps getting caught on the big wire loom. I think if I remove some stuff near the fuel rail I can get the driver's side one off but I have no idea how I'll be able to get that passenger side one off.

I noticed the bolts weren't even finger tight on both sides, that would probably explain why I have leaks.
 
Like I said, I already got the gaskets in a kit and they are cork so I'm just going to use them. If they leak later one, I'll replace them with Fel-Pros. So anyone got tips for getting the damn covers out of the engine bay? I keep getting stuck on things. The passenger's side seems impossible without dropping or lifting the engine a bit.
 
Turn the motor over with a socket on the crank pulley until the lifters on 6 (the closest one to the firewall, pass side) are down some and you can wiggle it out.
 
The passneger side is usually the easiest.

Rotate the engine some about 180 degrees.

This will make sure the valve is not open on the number 6 hole.

The sheild that covers the HVAC box is very easy to remove.

The valve cover can then rotate out. Make sure that the front of the passenger side cover is eith not connected to the turbo still or does not have a breather getting in the way.


Rotate the exhaust side of the cover up slightly and lift. Does not take much.

Hope this helps.
 
Remove the heater lines from the water pump nipple, lower intake flow restrictor and throttle body (2) to the heater core nipples at the firewall. Curse as the lion's share of your antifreeze pours onto your shoes. Make sure you have more on hand.

Remove the main wiring harness from the 2 clips in the vacinity of the valve cover. Careful, the clips break easily. It may or may not be advantageous to loosen or remove the screws that hold the clips.

Pull the wiring harness up and push it back and take the valve cover off.

I'm probably forgetting something, but what the hell, that's a start. After that stuff's out of the way anything else will be obvious.

IME, rotating the engine to clear the rearmost lifter is urban legend - it doesn't work and it AIN'T the problem.
 
Remove the heater lines from the water pump nipple, lower intake flow restrictor and throttle body (2) to the heater core nipples at the firewall. Curse as the lion's share of your antifreeze pours onto your shoes. Make sure you have more on hand.

Remove the main wiring harness from the 2 clips in the vacinity of the valve cover. Careful, the clips break easily. It may or may not be advantageous to loosen or remove the screws that hold the clips.

Pull the wiring harness up and push it back and take the valve cover off.

I'm probably forgetting something, but what the hell, that's a start. After that stuff's out of the way anything else will be obvious.

IME, rotating the engine to clear the rearmost lifter is urban legend - it doesn't work and it AIN'T the problem.


So if the VC is hanging up on a rocker with the vavle closed and I rotate the motor to open it/lower the lifter....I won't have an easier job?

Clearing the rocker isn't harder while the valve is completely closed?
 
How do I know when it's at 180 degrees?

I think I'll just keep turning it a little and then trying.
 
Dont use any sealer,Use Fel-pro 50156T
plastic ones.
The even have any crush limiters
 
what i have done to get the pass side valve cover off the engine is i remove the heater core hoses and then remove the retaining strap on the metal water lines and gently pull them up above a 1/2 inch. Then if you have a engine torque strap. You can take and ratchet done the driver's side of the eingine and that will pull the motor away fromt he heater box a tad bit and the cover will come out a bunch easier.

I do this and i have the RJC extensions on my valve covers and it makes it somewaht easier this way.
 
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