Aluminum Radiators ??????

a 4 core aluminum is not optimal. The advantage of aluminum is that u can run bigger rows and flow more water at a faster rate. Aluminum actually transfers heat worse than copper/brass but the solder on copper units does not transfer heat well. The rows on a copper unit can only be so big before they become to weak to take the pressure.

Then the f body radiator would have been made in brass then....
Ever try to melt copper with a torch? And aluminum? I couldn't get my aluminum to melt... because it wouldn't hold the heat long enough. Copper absorbs heat a little quicker, but aluminum definitely gives its heat up much faster.
 
well melting point and heat transfer aren't nessisarily related. But if we want to go there, the melting point of both brass and copper in pure form is much higher than aluminum. Aluminum is 1218F and brass is 1650+ while copper is 1900+

Aluminum vs Copper
 
well melting point and heat transfer aren't nessisarily related. But if we want to go there, the melting point of both brass and copper in pure form is much higher than aluminum. Aluminum is 1218F and brass is 1650+ while copper is 1900+

Aluminum vs Copper
 
I know they're not related. I do think however, that the fact that the aluminum giving it's heat up quicker, is a better method, than the copper being able to absorb it quicker.
 
GN1 Performance

I just purchased a GN1 Performance radiator. It was just over $400 shipped. It also has both oil/trans coolers built in. They have 2 different radiators. A 2 1/2" and 3". I purchased the 2 1/2" direct replacement because I was worried about my dual fans clearing my FMIC pipes. It does fit but it is close. The radiator fits/looks good but I did have to trim the top support to mount my radiator bracket back on. I like the radiator and my dual fan setup. You should check them out.
http://www.*******************/products.asp?cat=132
 
I love the one I got from Brian at Gbodyparts...and he got it out to me immediately. I was in a pinch and he shipped that joker that day.
 
You get what you pay for. I have a gbody parts alum radiator with fittings on the stock GN. On my T I went with a $78 fbody radiator from advance auto. If the $78 one takes a dump, I'll get another gbody parts aluminum one.
 
That's what I use. Just be sure to mount them in the trunk. Ya know,for proper weight transfer......:rolleyes:
 
I know they're not related. I do think however, that the fact that the aluminum giving it's heat up quicker, is a better method, than the copper being able to absorb it quicker.

Copper has a thermal conductivity of almost 2x than of aluminum. This is fact.
Maybe it's the solder joints that make them perform worse than the all alum radiator.
 
the reason aluminum is used is because copper isnt strong enough to make 1-1 1/2 inch wide tubes out of. if you look at a copper rad, the tubes are usually only 1/2 inch wide. wider tubes tranfer heat better to the fins.
 
Copper has a thermal conductivity of almost 2x than of aluminum. This is fact.
Maybe it's the solder joints that make them perform worse than the all alum radiator.

The actual absorption rate of heat is indeed better in copper, than aluminum. BUT, aluminum actually gives what heat it has absorbed up, quicker than copper.

And aluminum's stronger than copper? I've never seen or heard of that before in my life. :confused:
 
For the past week I have been running in my T the fbody radiator (platic tanks tiny alum core). 160 thermostat and it runs 168. Idling after driving it got to 173 and no fan running.

In my GN I have the gbody parts alum radiator with the factory oil cooler and I run a external tranny cooler. Temps are 178-190 with what I suspect is a oem temp thermostat.
 
Until my stock rad that in 100* weather in traffic with AC on goes over 175-180 with a 160 stat I'll keep it. I dont use the stock coolers (the new ones are in front of the rad now) but would probably just recore it for $200 for another 20 years. I use only RMI 25 & distilled water. Works great!
Granted, may not be as pretty but the extra $250 can go to other parts.
I do run a PTE stock location IC & not a front mount.
 
I just got quoted almost $400.00 for a new core plus shipping!!!

I will not be getting it re-core'd.

I need to make a decision very quickly on which unit to buy now so I can make the races in 10 days.

Bryan
 
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