all my problems

I

im faster

Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2004
ok.. so heres a list.. help if you can'

1. blowing CCCI fuse
only happens every once a while.. when i put it in reverse it pops or after going to WOT. but not all the time just sometimes....

replaced the coil pack cause thats what everyone said the problem is...

2. only 3rd brake light works,,,
i know why,, the little white wire but i cant figure out where to plug it back in

3. missing??? at high rpms i replaced the coil pack and its betterish now.. not it only does it going into overdrive maybe drive sometimes... its not real bad anymore.. you ca kinda hear on this video.... this was before the coilpack
full throttle video on Automotive

4. Fuel pressure.. on my hood mount fuel guage... it like..umm.. its not steady it bounces.. like da speedo any clue?

im sure there is a few other things ill update when i rememer
 
The brake light is probably the turn signal switch. There's a white wire (as part of a wiring bundle) running from the switch down the column to the connector at the base of the column. If you have a tilt column then wire fatigues and breaks. It can be fixed but turn signal switches are cheap and available.
 
Sounds like your fuel pump is going bad, or the wiring to the pump is shotty. The popping and all the missing while cruising is usually from being lean...usually from vacuum leaks or bad injectors. You should check all the wiring to the pump and possibly replace it, replace the injectors and make a serious effort to track down any and all vacuum leaks. But first you need to post your scanmaster numbers...if you have one. If you have no scan tool you'll never figure anything out. Also adjust your cam sensor (do a search with my user name to find out the easy way) and adjust the crank sensor if it needs it. Also do an ohm check on all your plug wires and replace them all with good ones (MSD or magnecore). If all this fails, replace your ignition module. But the first and obvious thing to do is give us scan readings and look for any trouble codes. I think you have a fueling issue personally.
 
A buddy's 89 TTA was blowing CCCI fuses and it ended up being his IGN. module shorting under load. If you know someone with a caspers coil pack tester check them both and you can rule that out. HTH

Mike Banas
 
ill posy numbers soon but i just replaced my ign. module

i have o trouble code with the stock chip./.. BUT it runs like crap with the turbo tweak chip it runs better but has codes but i belive the chip was for a 2.1 and i have a 2.0 scanmaster...

how owuld you check plug wires?
 
and with the brake ligh i know its the white wire....
its disconnected down at the bottom i just cant figure the right olace to plug it in
 
Get a volt meter and measure ohms from one end to the other...with the wires off the car of course. They should be pretty consistent. If one is way different than the others, replace them all. Also, even though the coil pack is new, you should check that as well. Check the ohms across each of the 3 coils, from the front post to the back post. They should measure between 11,000 to 13,000 ohms (11k and 13k). The voltmeter would also help you track down your electrical issues as well. Buy a small spool of wire so you can tap into places that are far apart when testing with your meter. But I do think you have a lean issue happening at cruise, or an extremely weak ignition. Check that the ground connections are good and tight, where they mount behind the passenger side head. Also check that the ground wire coming off the battery has a solid connection on both ends, as well as the positive going to the starter.
 
1. coilpack and ign module were the obvious choices. There is a short in the wiring to the ignition module. Unwrap the tape and you'll surely find something rubbed bare.

2. Check ALL of the bulbs in the front and rear. I had one bulb that was different (double v. single filament ) and it screwed with the whole brake light set-up

3. Plugs, wires, (how about scan numbers?) Also check the maf (It can cause all kinds of issues) Swap to a LS1 w/ a translator

4. Is the fuel pump making noise (more noise means that it's its way out) Are the injectors new?- might be clogged. Also, if your speedo wobbles, pull the instrument panel and pull out the speedo wire. clean it and lube it and your problem will most likely be solved.

I'm not an expert by any means but I have experience with ALL of these problems...:eek:
 
1. coilpack and ign module were the obvious choices. There is a short in the wiring to the ignition module. Unwrap the tape and you'll surely find something rubbed bare.
1. i will go check sounds like a good idea to me

2. Check ALL of the bulbs in the front and rear. I had one bulb that was different (double v. single filament ) and it screwed with the whole brake light set-up
2. i knoe the problem is the white wire.. i just need to find where it plugs back in to


3. Plugs, wires, (how about scan numbers?) Also check the maf (It can cause all kinds of issues) Swap to a LS1 w/ a translator
i have used 2 differnt mafs ad has the same problem i would lie to do the ls1 but his will cost a few $$$ wont it


4. Is the fuel pump making noise (more noise means that it's its way out) Are the injectors new?- might be clogged. Also, if your speedo wobbles, pull the instrument panel and pull out the speedo wire. clean it and lube it and your problem will most likely be solved.


few pmo sounds fine.. injectors maybe 1000 miles.. blue tops cleaned before i put them on.. and the speedo was just trying to explain how the FP guage acts sometimes
 
VadersV6 said:
Get a volt meter and measure ohms from one end to the other...with the wires off the car of course. They should be pretty consistent. If one is way different than the others, replace them all. Also, even though the coil pack is new, you should check that as well. Check the ohms across each of the 3 coils, from the front post to the back post. They should measure between 11,000 to 13,000 ohms (11k and 13k). The voltmeter would also help you track down your electrical issues as well. Buy a small spool of wire so you can tap into places that are far apart when testing with your meter. But I do think you have a lean issue happening at cruise, or an extremely weak ignition. Check that the ground connections are good and tight, where they mount behind the passenger side head. Also check that the ground wire coming off the battery has a solid connection on both ends, as well as the positive going to the starter.
Click to expand...

just got back check the coil pack... 12.3ish on all three.. and the wires are pretty crapy pulled one out and the metal peice came out.. lol oh well guess i should get some new wires... but it sill had the same problems before i put these wires on
 
car on X idle

AF 150X60
L8 0X31
INT 128X128
BL 128X165
ATS 106X112
TPS .44X.46
IAC 0X0
PL .5X.8
SP 39.4X37.1
 
Hey, what about the going in reverse problem..My car cant take more than a hair throttle in reverse or it will die and blow the lights' fusible link.
 
well i checked the wires... found 1 that had a bare spot. it was a redish ithw a stripe going to the drivers side. i should have grounded it out to see if that was the problem but i just taped up... we will see how it goes im going for a drive,,, thanks for da help...
 
oh yeah... another problem

when i put my car in to gear it makes a huge CLANK and i get some vibrations i the drive train around 45 ad 70 i think.. im pretty sure its not the tires being out of balance any ideas?
 
im faster said:
car on X idle

AF 150X60
L8 0X31
INT 128X128
BL 128X165
ATS 106X112
TPS .44X.46
IAC 0X0
PL .5X.8
SP 39.4X37.1
Click to expand...
Well like I said, you have a vacuum leak somewhere..probably alot of them..and/or your injectors are crap. The BLM's are MAXED out! The computer is adding as much fuel as it can and its still not enough. Replace as many hoses as you can and use hose clamps. get a 1/2" hose and use it as a stethoscope, and listen at the base of every fuel injector to see if you hear a sucking sound. TPS is good. Your IAC (Idle air control motor..should by called idle air bypass cause thats what it does. It bypasses air around the throttle blade at idle when its closed)..your IAC isnt even working! Go to gnttype.org and go through the entire IAC and TPS adjustment procedure. Either you have no power to the IAC motor (its a linear stepper motor..each IAC count is 1 click forward or rearward of the motor), or its adjusted totally wrong, OR the IAC is bad and needs to be replaced. You may have a power issue going to it. Given the fact your car sounds like a wiring disaster (I hate people that screw wiring all up and half ass it all), I wouldnt doubt you have no power going to it. Disconnect the connector, THEN turn the ignition on and probe (the voltmeter I was saying to get) all the pins that go to the IAC..check for power. THEN turn ignition off, and THEN plug the IAC connector back in. After doing this, then go through that adjustment procedure. Your AF (MAF reading) is COMPLETELY screwed up! Im surprised your engine runs at all! Once again, could be power going to the MAF. You need to pull the connector off and check for power going to it. Buy an LS1 MAF and a MAF translator once you figure out the wiring disaster. The LS1 MAF for my car was 80 bucks at a junkyard. I bought the translator used for about 100 bucks on ebay...it did need an updated chip for it from mike at fullthrottlespeed.com....AWESOME guy to do business with. He knows his chit! I think your car has some serious wiring problems. You need to get a chilton manual, a voltmeter and a spool of wire and get to work. I think wiring is the source of almost all of the problems you're having. Check all those grounds that bolt up to the back of your pass. side head, and the battery cables where they hook up on the bottom and make sure they're tight. You need to do this before you waste time anywhere else.
 
the iac drops to 0 after a few seconds. grounds are ok i have checked but ill keep looking thanks alot for your help if you have anymore info please share
 
so 2 days now and NO blown CCCI fuse,,, i found a wire that was bare and taped it and its all better.. and since i replaced the coil pack ive go way better gas milage,, before like 109ish to a tank im just of a 1/4 tank and im at 170 yeah... im gonna do a boost leak test asap and go check and reset my IAC
 
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