Alky-Control Test button Question

[BOP4ever]

I drove my GN to work this morning and cruising down the road I hit the test button and the power injection light came on and the led turned red, but not green. Dial was on 7.
Last time I drove the car it would go to green after a few seconds on the button.
I turned the knob to 10 and repeated with same results no green.
I reset to 7 and gave it a quick stab on the go -pedal and it went red-green like normal.
Do I have a problem ?


Thanks

 

[Razor]

You might. Any degredation in the operation of the kit typically will change the response of the led switching from red to green.

A leak would be my first guess. Start car.. hit test button.. then check your lines/pump.

Julio

 

[BOP4ever]

I went out to The shop and tested it and looked for leaks.
At idle it would almost cause the engine to stall when I pressed the button and the led went red to green in about 1 second with the dial on 8. On 6 it stayed red but still made the engine sputter .
I checked everything from the pump to the nozzle and it was bone dry.
Maybe I didn't get it to 8 this morning and it only will turn to green with the gain turned up.

 

[captflash]

Subscribed

 

[Razor]

What is the temp in the garaje?

If its cold.. the clearances tighten up on the pump motor and it slows down a little. Just like every other electrical motor in winter.

Two things happen when you push the test button. We send a small voltage to the pump. Typically on position 8 with factory default settings it will be 3.8-4.0 volts. So on position 6 it may only be 3.4volts. Understand its a 12v motor and 3.4 doesnt make it spin very fast. Cold weather could slow it down a tad. If you had 4.0 volts on pump it better make 50+ psi. If not.. then there is your issue.

The LED will change from red-green when the pump makes it over 50 psi pressure. So when you push the test button the pressure may build to lets say 45 psi.. engine stumbles.. yet light doesnt change. Understand 3.4 volts applied to pump may not make it over 50 psi pressure. This is really prevalent on twin nozzle kits as the orfice of two nozzles makes it harder to make pressure. If the pump is warm and the system is purged.. its a non issue. Thats why when you get into boost it does change.

This is where having an electronic gauge plays a big role understanding what you have when you push the test. And not to discount the kit being older with an older pump. Over the years the diaphrams on the pumps harden and it no longer makes pressure like a brand new flexible counterpart.

Hope this helps.

 

[BOP4ever]

Mine is about 2 months old fwiw

 

[Razor]

How cold is your garaje?
battery volts on car while idling?

may need to tweak up the "Initial" inside the PAC controller under the dash. A small bump to the right.

 

[BOP4ever]

Yesterday it was about 80 degrees in the shop when I tested it and yesterday morning it was around 60 degrees when it seem to act reluctant to turn green. The battery voltage on the scanmaster is kind of low ranges from about 12.6 to 13.2 mostly about 12.8-13.0.

 

[Razor]

So on position 8 it doesnt go red-green when test is pushed and held?

 

[BOP4ever]

In the shop it went green set on 8.
That morning while driving it would not go to green.
I am pretty sure I tried it turned to 8 too, but I was driving and it was like 6 am and dark.

 

[hemi8]

How about a thermostatically controlled flexible heater attached to the pump body to eliminate cold temp. issues?
Mike

 

[Razor]

How about a thermostatically controlled flexible heater attached to the pump body to eliminate cold temp. issues?
Mike

Great idea.. The question is how.. I mean who makes a small enough heat pad.. that works on 12v.. then figure out how to thermostatically control it.. and confirm its operation.. like a ready light??

Guess an 80 degree target would be great.

 

[Pittsburghkid]

Great idea.. The question is how.. I mean who makes a small enough heat pad.. that works on 12v.. then figure out how to thermostatically control it.. and confirm its operation.. like a ready light??

Guess an 80 degree target would be great.

I know this isn't optimal but it would solve all three requests. Size, voltage, thermostatically controlled with an operation light. The only thing I'm not sure of is how the probe would fair in the alky. Either way maybe with these two items something could be made from them that would be viable.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Reptile-Liz...439?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item416ec87237

Or

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-12V-Dig...105?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f16cdd629

+

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Zilla-Repti...t=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item4ab85259bc

4x7" pad.now it doesn't say temp range but if its can heat a terrarium I don't see why 80* would be a problem.

 

[Razor]

Found something.. in the works
Incorporate the circuit into the controller so the LED blinks when the warmer is active. pretty straight forward. 80 degree's on the pump should be fine

 

[turbot3.8]

Found something.. in the works
Incorporate the circuit into the controller so the LED blinks when the warmer is active. pretty straight forward. 80 degree's on the pump should be fine

Razor anything ever come of this?

 

[Razor]

Razor anything ever come of this?

Yes.. off course

Its a thermal sleeve that will fit under the vinyl pump sleeve.

Now.. the questions that hasn't been answered is how long does it take to effect change temperature wise to the pump. In other words 5 degree's per minute or ??? The good is that it will shut of at 80 degree's. The question is how long does it take to get the pump warmed up from X degree's to 80 degree's.

The other question is will this even create any benefit meaning.. adding this will do anything positive but add cost.

Next is 2 ways it can be wired in.. the simple would be right of the pump cable since there is +12v there as long as the ignition on the car is "ON". More complicated way would be to tie into the controller to flash the "ON" led until it reaches temp. That would require more circuitry and added cost.

My plan was to stick a pump in the freezer and test speed/performance at lets say 15 degree's. Then add the thermal and see how the speed on the pump responds. Problem is we've been swamped these last two weeks.

Hows that

 

[longball]

Interesting................

 

[TWIN86GNS]

Very interesting thread.

 

[Fast4Ward]

interesting for sure...i use to just hit the test button a few times when first hitting the street after sitting for a few days, but did not know that holding it would confirm red to green.

 

[haywire4130]

Check out hand warmer elements for 99+ polaris or ski doo snowmobiles... Theyre inexpensive, perfect size, adhesive backed and have a high and low setting with simple wiring. And even if left on (via a switch that you could activate in cold weather) they never get hot enough to actually burn your hands (i.e. Damage your pump).