advice on 109 build

daturbosix

Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2003
thanks for looking.

im looking to build my 87 which has a stock engine now with some bolt-ons. unfortunatly it now has some blow by and burning of oil. so guess what, TIME TO MAKE IT FAST!

id like to retain my a/c, stay single turbo, drive around to local shows, and run in low 10s range. is that unreasonable? oh and keep the 200-4r if possible.

how should i build it? what parts? any proven combos out there?
 
id like to retain my a/c, stay single turbo, drive around to local shows, and run in low 10s range. is that unreasonable? oh and keep the 200-4r if possible.

YES. It's unreasonable.

Give Dan Strezo at DLS a call. He is about 75 miles from you and will not feed you a bunch of BS. 219.956.3653
 
thanks for looking.

im looking to build my 87 which has a stock engine now with some bolt-ons. unfortunatly it now has some blow by and burning of oil. so guess what, TIME TO MAKE IT FAST!

id like to retain my a/c, stay single turbo, drive around to local shows, and run in low 10s range. is that unreasonable? oh and keep the 200-4r if possible.

how should i build it? what parts? any proven combos out there?

Look at my build. You can go further with a BB GTQ turbo, stand alone, and ported aluminum heads. I will have the FAST and GTQ on in the spring. Car will easily run low 10's at 3500 lbs. I drove it to RI and back multiple times until they salted and sanded the roads. Plenty streetable and a lot of fun to drive. I would go with a forged crank and K1 rods vs. the stock crank like me. Since you only plan on the local cruising i would go with more hardcore parts like the GTQ turbo and a looser converter. They will give you the best et's at the strip. Check out Grumpy's daughters GN buildup. He went 10.10 on drag radials with 93 octane and alky in an all steel car. Please note that both of these are pretty mild iron headed cars that see a lot of real street miles and are more at home driving around and having fun with than trailering around to drag strips.
 
My 2 cents....

Leave the stock ecm/chip in the car, go BB turbo, lowest stall lock-up converter you can get away with a stay with the 2004R trans. You don't need all the exotic parts in the motor, they are nice but not needed. Use a girdle if it makes you feel better but billet center caps work fine in the low 10s. Hyper or forged pistons, either or. I bent rods before the hypers gave way........ Made me a believer with hypers though I would use forged in yours. Use a small roller cam, ported irons and alky control alky kit. Tune up will determine longevity with any motor. You detonate it it will break no matter what parts you use.......
 
well guys, thanks for the replys so far.

i will give dan a call tomorrow or next monday.

and i thought i should add that once the car is built it will be seeing quite a bit of "street action" so if i can stay away from making it look like a "Race car" that would be cool.(ie. iron heads, stock style intake, etc.)

also, what is all this talk about a stage II motor? ive heard time and time agian about these things... *is* it that much better?
 
well guys, thanks for the replys so far.

i will give dan a call tomorrow or next monday.

and i thought i should add that once the car is built it will be seeing quite a bit of "street action" so if i can stay away from making it look like a "Race car" that would be cool.(ie. iron heads, stock style intake, etc.)

also, what is all this talk about a stage II motor? ive heard time and time agian about these things... *is* it that much better?

With all the vacuum lines and crap in front of the heads, no one would ever notice a set of champion ported aluminum heads with a matchng champion intake. Even headers are bearly visable with these motors. Keep the 109 block, gurdle it, build your internals, add some fuel(injectors, fuel pump, bigger fuel lines), bigger turbo, stretch stock location intercooler, big roller cam, and a tranny to handle it, tell people its stock, and they'll believe you untill you beat em by an eighth of a mile.
 
ok ..give us an idea how fast you are looking to go ?? :confused: my view...keep it simple and stupid and DRIVE the car :p
 
and i thought i should add that once the car is built it will be seeing quite a bit of "street action" so if i can stay away from making it look like a "Race car" that would be cool.(ie. iron heads, stock style intake, etc.)

Talk to Filly.
 
You dont need to get to radical with parts or money for a 10.5 car

109/2 caps
ported irons/intake
pte upper port match the TB
218/218 cam no ned for roller
stock headers/ good exhaust
the turbo is going to be tricky and could get by with as small as a 54 or a 70p trim.

stock rods good bolts/stock crank JE pistons or speedpro's with JE pins

I would put the most money in the trans and suspension parts.
 
tranny and suspension are done.
i got a 200-4r are built by jimmys with a vigilanty 3500
the car currently cuts low 1.5 60s all day long on a drag radial.
 
4.1

ya buddy now where talking 4.1 stroker to a 4.5. thats what i want to do
 
if your from chicago or the area around it go to a club meeting and talk to Paul Dubois. His car until this year is what your looking to do and the parts he used were not all high dollar.
 
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