I am running a Ta49 with an adjustable wastegate and wanted to turn up be boost after doing all of my spring maintenance on my car. The problem is that I can only get 15-16 lbs of boost even with the rod shortened all of the way. Anyone have ideas? Do I have to run a blessed valve to get more boost out of it?
Adjustable wastegate/Boost issues
- Thread starter SpooledUp
- Start date
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
- Do you still have these lines hooked up to the wastegate solenoid?
If so, this means that your chip is still in control of the boost level.
Here is a picture and location of the wastegate solenoid. It's located on the passengers side valve cover.
If not, and you have one hose routed from the compressor cover 90* hose barb, straight down to the wastegate actuator, then there could be something wrong with your actuator. The stock standard spring actuator, when adjusted all the way tight, should be able to give you 20-22psi, when setup in tuner mode. (One hose from turbo to wastegate actuator)
Let us know.
Patrick
If so, this means that your chip is still in control of the boost level.
Here is a picture and location of the wastegate solenoid. It's located on the passengers side valve cover.
If not, and you have one hose routed from the compressor cover 90* hose barb, straight down to the wastegate actuator, then there could be something wrong with your actuator. The stock standard spring actuator, when adjusted all the way tight, should be able to give you 20-22psi, when setup in tuner mode. (One hose from turbo to wastegate actuator)
Let us know.
Patrick
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
Danger Will Robinson!! Danger!!! 
Make sure before you go out and test in tuner mode, that you re-adjust / lengthen the rod back to just over stock length. Make a pull, see where the boost goes, pull over, with vice grips and good heat absorbing gloves, adjust the actuator rod. This would require you doing away with the stock E clip that likes to go flying across the garage when installing it. I like to use an alligator test clip or a factory snap clip like the ones found on your throttle body or cruise control module cable.
On a standard spring actuator, 2 each half turns should equal 1psi. To get about 17-18psi, I typically had to go between 12-14 half turns (6-7 full 360* turns) from static position. All the standard spring actuators I've ever had at static position (no tention required to install the actuator rod onto the swing valve) were in the 10-12psi range. Adjust the rod out to static and see where the boost goes first and adjust from there. Every wastegate actuator will have some spring tension differences.
Running it tuner style with the rod as short as physically possible should net you 21-24psi. I like to set my bottom level boost with the actuator, then use an RJC boost control valve to turn the boost higher than 22psi. On my old blue car, I had my standard actuator set at 19psi and with the RJC valve almost all the way open, then adjust the RJC valve to get up to 27-28psi.
Just looking out for ya.
Patrick
Make sure before you go out and test in tuner mode, that you re-adjust / lengthen the rod back to just over stock length. Make a pull, see where the boost goes, pull over, with vice grips and good heat absorbing gloves, adjust the actuator rod. This would require you doing away with the stock E clip that likes to go flying across the garage when installing it. I like to use an alligator test clip or a factory snap clip like the ones found on your throttle body or cruise control module cable.
On a standard spring actuator, 2 each half turns should equal 1psi. To get about 17-18psi, I typically had to go between 12-14 half turns (6-7 full 360* turns) from static position. All the standard spring actuators I've ever had at static position (no tention required to install the actuator rod onto the swing valve) were in the 10-12psi range. Adjust the rod out to static and see where the boost goes first and adjust from there. Every wastegate actuator will have some spring tension differences.
Running it tuner style with the rod as short as physically possible should net you 21-24psi. I like to set my bottom level boost with the actuator, then use an RJC boost control valve to turn the boost higher than 22psi. On my old blue car, I had my standard actuator set at 19psi and with the RJC valve almost all the way open, then adjust the RJC valve to get up to 27-28psi.
Just looking out for ya.
Patrick
87buickracer
Member
- Joined
- Dec 2, 2004
I set boost at 17lbs and run a turbonectics bleeder valve in place of solonoid,but leave solonoid connected to wire harness..works perfect..
If you have any futher issues look for exhaust leak,bad waste gate, or reburn chip,etc..
GNVYUS 1
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2002
So you're running a direct line from the compressor to the wastegate actuator and you're wondering why it's 15psi? I'm not sure I understand what the issue is but here.....
1) If using the factory solenoid to control boost, it needs to look like the pic RUQWKNF posted for you.
2) If you decide to not use the solenoid, then you HAVE to run a Manual Boost Controller or else, you're not controlling the boost, the Wastegate Spring is.
MBC lines are easy, compressor to the bottom of the MBC, then the 90 degree fitting is the feed to the Wastegate Actuator. Make sure the MBC screw etc is out all the way and do your maiden voyage with caution. Then tune in about 2-3psi with the MBC and do the rest with the adjustable WG rod.
1) If using the factory solenoid to control boost, it needs to look like the pic RUQWKNF posted for you.
2) If you decide to not use the solenoid, then you HAVE to run a Manual Boost Controller or else, you're not controlling the boost, the Wastegate Spring is.
MBC lines are easy, compressor to the bottom of the MBC, then the 90 degree fitting is the feed to the Wastegate Actuator. Make sure the MBC screw etc is out all the way and do your maiden voyage with caution. Then tune in about 2-3psi with the MBC and do the rest with the adjustable WG rod.
GNVYUS 1
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2002
Factory WG spring is around 12lbs, Heavy Duty is around 18lbs, but allowing them to control the boost is not that great. The one downfall to the factory setup and/or running just the WG is it will creep open as pressure gets higher. It's not like it's clamped shut 100% and then all of a sudden it opens 100% when the boost hits 18psi. So this is where the MBC comes in, that will allow the more ideal scenario of shut 100% to open 100% at the desired boost level.
Run the MBC with a stock WG IMO, you'll achieve the best spoolup with control over the total amount and you can run it down to 12psi if needed for those, letting someone borrow your car, situations.
Run the MBC with a stock WG IMO, you'll achieve the best spoolup with control over the total amount and you can run it down to 12psi if needed for those, letting someone borrow your car, situations.
turbo96max
Member
- Joined
- Jun 6, 2007
not to thread jack, but its a similar issue im facing and before starting a new thread maybe some people here can chime in.
i have the hd wastegate and run a direct line from the turbo to the wg. 1-2nd gear i get like 15-16 psi car runs rich, then in 3rd it hits a steady 20 psi and the car cleans up. is this just the way it is with these wastegates, does one have to go to external to fix this
i have the hd wastegate and run a direct line from the turbo to the wg. 1-2nd gear i get like 15-16 psi car runs rich, then in 3rd it hits a steady 20 psi and the car cleans up. is this just the way it is with these wastegates, does one have to go to external to fix this
Installed a RJC Boost controller on Thurs but did not get to do any test and tuning until Friday evening. All I can say is WOW! Exactly what was missing. I have it set at 17lbs with occasional 1-3 knock on the scanmaster. Lag is greatly decreased as well. I am going to have to do a bit more tuning when the weather is nicer since it started to rain when I was tuning. I would like to turn it up to 18-19lbs if it is safe. What amount of knock is acceptable?
0 knock! you need a power logger for a more precise tune.by the time the scanmaster reads kr the damage is already done.could be false knock 0-3*if you see any kr 3* or more get out of it.cheap insurance run some e-85/93 mix or 93/116 race fuel mix.
HelloBozos
A Bozo in Buick
- Joined
- Feb 9, 2011
a Factory mounted adjustiable vacume boost actuator only puts out 17-psi max, some might do more if the rods cut shorter but you risk tearing the diapham in the actuator,Cheapest Best way to up the boost is a "Bleeder Valve". Remove the line going to the factory boost solinoid an in stall it on that line. Make sure its fully closed on first test ride,then turn it up-open it in small incroments till your desired boost level. 19 psi good on 93 octain, 22 psi on race fuel....
Enjoy!
Enjoy!
it's just a six
Member
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2005
Just curious, would a EBC work better than a MBC as far as allowing or having boost creep?
I know a EBC will work better than a MBC when it comes to changing altitudes & being able to keep the desired boost pressure more consistant.
GNVYUS 1
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2002
EBC is nice, but for the majority of us is overkill. We can contain spiking and creeping by using larger wastegate pucks and opening the hole in the exhaust housing.
They do a great job of being consistent and being able to run different boost levels for say 1st etc. IMO OP doesn't fit in the category of needing that yet.
They do a great job of being consistent and being able to run different boost levels for say 1st etc. IMO OP doesn't fit in the category of needing that yet.
