A Free Trick To Help Speed Up Your Power Windows.

What year application?

thanks garyk1970 for this write up

You can find the regulators in any 79-87 G-Body. Now you have to know what your looking at because there are some regulators that dont have the tangs to accept the springs. I'm not 100% for sure but IIRC the center pivot shaft had a slot cut in to accept the spring which might be an easyway to ID them. Heck you might already them in your car and not even know it. The springs you'll have to score from the boneyard. You can find them in any 79-85 E-Body(Riviera,ElDorado or Toronado). I've also seen them in late 90's to early 00's vintage Cadillac Deville/Sevilles.

IMO the springs aren't really worth the hassle. Just remember they are a spring. What helps the window go down faster just might make them roll back up slower.
 
The Kirban kit was just a hot wire kit. You could probably make one with a little effort or if you talked real nice to him John at Caspers could fix you one up.
 
Ive Found A Way To Speed Up (and Repair What Was Thought To Be Bad Motors)for Gm's Power Windows Over The Years Doing My Electrical Work .
Heres A Few Tricks Ive Learned That Works And Is Free.the #1 Cause Of Failed Power Windows (other Than Switches Or Wiring) Is Not The Motor Its Self,but A Thermo-load-resistor That Is Inside The Power Window Motor.its Located In The End Of The Housing Where The Harness Plugs Into The Motor From The Switch Controls.over Time They Fail,and The Least Amount Of Load And The Window Stops And/or The Speed Decreases.
I'm Going To Show How To Bypass The Resistor,and Some More Basic Maintenence To Speed Those Slow Windows Up.
Ive Had Requests For Instruction On How To Do This Mod,but No Pics Until I Had To Do This To My 1994 Gmc Safari Van Today.i Had The Opportunity To Perform This Mod,and Since This Vans Pw Motor Is Identical The The Regals,gave Me The Opportunity To Post This Thread.
Any Questions About This Mod,please Ask.here We Go....
Just got it thank you so much.
 
Hi Gary, Thanks for this great thread you wrote on how to speed up the electric windows.

The only concern I would have is the size of the wire you mention.
16AWG has an amperage rated for 10amp
10AWG has an amperage rated for 30amp

Now that you removed the CB and place a 30 amp fuse; if the window is jam, by the time that 30 amp blows open the under rated wire is going to heat up first before blowing the 30 amp fuse.

Now if there is a short the 30 amp fuse will open before any size wire starts to heat up

I would appreciate your input on this
 
Gary

Something that i have found is that they also start to lose their ground thru the door pins as they wear out. i had to run a ground wire from the motor to the the inside kick panel and then my windows work great.

I've found just having great grounds throughout the car and looping them all ie engine to chassis to body, etc makes the windows work great too. I'm sure my resistor will go eventually though.
 
Hi Gary, Thanks for this great thread you wrote on how to speed up the electric windows.

The only concern I would have is the size of the wire you mention.
16AWG has an amperage rated for 10amp
10AWG has an amperage rated for 30amp

Now that you removed the CB and place a 30 amp fuse; if the window is jam, by the time that 30 amp blows open the under rated wire is going to heat up first before blowing the 30 amp fuse.

Now if there is a short the 30 amp fuse will open before any size wire starts to heat up

I would appreciate your input on this


The small gage wire is OK because of how short it is...length of wire is a calculation factor...
The fuse is just safer IMHO because the internal cb in the motor is also to protect against a stuck switch.whatever size cb, is the size fuse I recommend...remember sometimes IN A hurry, we will roll up or down both windows at once, if voltage is low, the amperage will increase, got to be able to cover that...so its a worse of two evils I guess...my experience has shown me the fuse will blow.still won't hurt to run a smaller fuse if you wish...if it blows, you can always go bigger...just don't exceed the cb size.....very good questions.
 
Last edited:
First off thanks to Gary for the help with my speaker set up! The Buick community never ceases to amaze me.

I just did my window motors over and I also bypassed the 'thermal breaker'.

Since I took my motors apart (I just removed the plastic caps that holds the brushes) I was able to remove the switch and drop a 10 gauge wire in its place. I'll put up some pics after I download them (if anyone is interested). This allowed me to clean them and get some fresh grease in there.

I timed the window going up a few times, beforehand and I got between 8-10 seconds. Now after the mod, I get between 4-5.5 seconds so I came close to cutting the time in half. Now you can hear the motors go and boy do the windows fly going down now!
 
You're welcome...you are the first to take the motor apart and bypass the thermal circuit breaker...this is the very best way to do it, if you can put the brushes back in...please post up pics to show how you did this, and how you got the .motor back together...
Cheers
 
I cleaned the area and removed the switch. All you need to do is spread the round rings and pull the switch out.

Dropped a 10 gauge wire and soldered it in place .

Reassembled the brushes.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20140507_133627.jpg
    IMG_20140507_133627.jpg
    3.6 MB · Views: 479
  • IMG_20140507_134645.jpg
    IMG_20140507_134645.jpg
    3 MB · Views: 453
  • IMG_20140507_134753.jpg
    IMG_20140507_134753.jpg
    2.8 MB · Views: 461
  • IMG_20140507_135001.jpg
    IMG_20140507_135001.jpg
    2.6 MB · Views: 404
  • IMG_20140507_140126.jpg
    IMG_20140507_140126.jpg
    2.7 MB · Views: 379
  • IMG_20140507_140451.jpg
    IMG_20140507_140451.jpg
    2.8 MB · Views: 386
Last edited:
I also roughed up all the contacts with light sand paper.

I place the cap back on and used a very small screw drives to push the brushes back while gently pushing the cap back on.

Sent power to verify everything worked then reinstalled.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20140507_140623.jpg
    IMG_20140507_140623.jpg
    3 MB · Views: 411
Just got it thank you so much.
hi, isn't the resister there to control the amperage allowed to the motor so the motor works with the rated amps it was designed for ?
Yes it will work faster but I would think the armature would start to weaken from excessive power?
Just trying to understand the workings.
?
 
Dc motors are basically stupid....more volts , faster they spin, less volts, slower they spin....
speed control you're talking about would be for a golf cart to regulate speed for example.
 
Top