4.1 stock block build
- Thread starter Mike Licht
- Start date
Any reason you didn't just run a braided line down to the oil pan?
It's actually a VERY tight fit. I did that on my 4.1. The line has to thread between the oil pump, block and motor mount and still clear the through bolt that locks the motor mounts together.
http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/791081-post28.html
http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/791081-post28.html
Mike Licht
I was here first
- Joined
- May 23, 2001
I started this not to build the ultimate 4.1 but just a good street motor that the average guy could build himself without breaking the bank. I figures I have built an awful lot of these motors over the years and maybe someone could pick up a tip or trick to make their build easier, better, more cost effective or all of above.
Mike Licht
I was here first
- Joined
- May 23, 2001
I have a factory drain hose along with a drill and tap. Honestly raining into the pan is likely better since it keeps the oil off the cam and crank which will reduce windage losses. You do need to put a baffle on the inside of the pan to direct the oil down and not into the rotating assembly. This was just cleaner for this car.
Mike Licht
I was here first
- Joined
- May 23, 2001
Thanks for the input Nick, I am sure the TA cover is a great product but I am trying to create a thread here about what I am building for myself, how guys can do some of this work on their own.Contrary to popular belief, the critical clearance in a Buick oil pump is not between the gears and the flat plate mounting surface, but it is the clearance between the walls of the pocket and the gears. This is where the oil pressure is developed.
The factory spec for plate clearance is .002"-.007", and even on the loose side, we always have good oil pressure.
A little know fact in the turbo world is the Buick V-8's used a very similar oil pump, in fact the Buick 350 V-8 pump is identical.
In the early '80's when many Buick 455 parts had been discontinued, Mike at TA redesigned and built a new timing cover for the 455 and incorporated many improvements after working with some of the original Buick engineers, and ended up with a superior product.
One of the MAJOR difference between the new TA V-6 timing cover and an original factory cover is the tolerances in the pocket, and of course passages were also changed and improved for better flow as well as increased pressure.
Our experience is that any booster plate in not needed if all else is proper and in good shape. Since the extra gasket is a potential leak, and have replaced many on GN's, I personally do not use them.
When we build a $10-15K engine for a customer, they almost always opt to spend a few more dollars on the "heart" of the beast with a new cover!
Mike Licht
I was here first
- Joined
- May 23, 2001
Sure did I am going to steer it back, thanks for noticing!
Mike Licht
I was here first
- Joined
- May 23, 2001
Here is an update, the pistons have arrived and look great, we decided to do the stock stroke steel crank for this motor we are using a GN1 performance unit. The block work is done and the balance will be done in a couple days. I will take pictures of everything then and post them and we will get the assembly started which will be documented here as well. then we will see how it runs once we get it in the car. Thanks for reading along hope someone gets something useful from this thread
Mike Licht
I was here first
- Joined
- May 23, 2001
Here is an update, the pistons have arrived and look great, we decided to do the stock stroke steel crank for this motor we are using a GN1 performance unit. The block work is done and the balance will be done in a couple days. I will take pictures of everything then and post them and we will get the assembly started which will be documented here as well. then we will see how it runs once we get it in the car. Thanks for reading along hope someone gets something useful from this thread
Mike Licht
I was here first
- Joined
- May 23, 2001
That was my plan but time is getting short I have to measure anyway so I will post them but not sure how in depth I can get there with pictures and things. I want to start driving this thing and there is a couple events coming up I want to go to
build threads are a lot harder to make than it seems, aren't they?
Here's one I did with my 4.1 and I must have left out 80% of it...
http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/buick-v6-turbo-tech/88129-day-life-earl.html
Here's one I did with my 4.1 and I must have left out 80% of it...
http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/buick-v6-turbo-tech/88129-day-life-earl.html
Big Turbo Scott
Member
- Joined
- Jun 29, 2006
Mike, At a 4" bore, what is the remaining cylinder wall thickness? At what thickness is the wall too thin?
Mike Licht
I was here first
- Joined
- May 23, 2001
This block was still over .180" at the thin spot after boring, it was sonic tested before we started. I took this one to 4.005 I don't see any problem there I would not go a bunch more. it still has a little left in it I saw stage 1 blocks that were that thin from the start.
thadeal4real
Member
- Joined
- May 28, 2009
I'm going to chime in how cheap are the parts and what is actual list of the labor price breakdown please? ??
thadeal4real
Member
- Joined
- May 28, 2009
Ps I was subscribed from page 1
Mike Licht
I was here first
- Joined
- May 23, 2001
I will put a price down in the end and a break down of what is in this motor
Mike Licht
I was here first
- Joined
- May 23, 2001
Mike Licht
I was here first
- Joined
- May 23, 2001
So I stated some assembly first thing we did was take a drill and drill out a thread or two from the head bolt holes to get them away from the deck. The 86/87 blocks have recessed threads to help prevent deck cracking we car going to borrow a page from their book and do something like that. By drilling out a could threads and chamfering the bolt holes we minimize the chance of a cracked deck. A hand drill with a drill stop is all you need.
