4.1 stock block build

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caps are fitted and block is cleaned up, pistons should be here soon so we can bore, hone and finish. I will go through the front cover today to port and assemble my way. I will post pictures and a description later or Monday. FYI, I always use high volume covers, I know that's not popular but I have NEVER had a gear or bearing problem from that. I also use the aftermarket cover, when properly put together they are fine and my cam sensors fit fine too.
 
I got talked into a steel crank (stock stroke), we will go through the prep on that too. Since I plan to be testing some new turbos and beating this motor up pretty good it seems like the right choice even though it goes against my original plan. Tom at Champion is doing a set of iron heads for me I sent him some of the heavy duty beehive springs we use with our 214 cam which we will also use
 
Keep the pictures coming and keep up the good work! Here is a question for you, what about head gaskets? Lots of guys using the felpro 1000's or 1026's, but if you look at them they don't match the water pockets 100%. Would be nice to have a perfectly matching head gasket.
 
The 1026 gasket has a copper fire ring and is designed for Aluminum heads, since I am using iron heads the 1000 or the cometic is the best choice for me. I will take some pictures of the water jackets with different gaskets when I get the block back on a stand ready for assembly.
Mike
 
Question Mike-

do you sell front covers done "your way" for a 3.8 ?? price? leadtime on ordering one??

"I will go through the front cover today to port and assemble my way"
 
I will let you know on the front cover I have had a few PMs today so I guess I need to look at doing this I will post up Monday
Mike
 
Well I might throw in a good crank, I am trying to keep the cost under control here right now it just needs to run. Hey at least it is not a LS motor LOL
Hi Mike, I thought the 4.1 crank had fillet journals and were as good as the turbo crank?
Or did I get some wrong info?
 
on the front cover the first thing we need to do is open the main oil feed coming from the motor it is big by the gears but small at the top, this is the way casting works the core must come out I drill them first to 7/16 and then to 15/32 some guys go 1/2 I have had some covers I thought were thin so I stop there. first picture is as cast, second drilled out
 

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next we gasket match the cover to the oil filter adaptor usually there is a good mismatch there but this cover and adaptor needed no work, lucky me I guess
 
this looks simple but is very important, years ago Kenne Bell made a plate that redirected the bypass oil back, I always used them but they were a pain. Our friend Earl Brown came up with the "earl brown mod" and just drilled a hole to feed the bottom of the gears too. I am sorry I did not think of it first, it works great. and is pretty easy to d I use a 3/16 drill and make a slot I left it ragged so you can see. You can take a dremel and clean it up but frankly it works fine like this.
 

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I take a sand paper roll and clean up the oil passages getting rid of any flash left from casting you can really see how much bigger the oil feed is now
 

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I got this from Jim Ruggles he told me to drill a 1/8" hole between the teeth on the idler gear, does it help I don't know it should oil the pin, I know it does not hurt and takes about 1 minute to do
 

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Assemble per manual make sure you have about .001 thrust on the gears to cover, the tighter the better. TA makes a nice gasket set with different gaskets to get you where you need to be. Make sure if you are using an aftermarket cover like this one that you red loctight the set screw in the top. If you have questions or need help give me a call or drop me a note. We will see how much pressure this makes in a couple weeks hopefully. I was able to do this in about 30 minutes.
 
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