2-step open loop help....

[Fitman]

Installed a BB 2 step last wknd. Now i need to know how to wire 12vdc to #12 pin to stay in an "open loop" to prevent my chip from trying to keep correcting the AFR.
Can anyone please give me some assistance on this?
I'm sure it's probably on the ECM but what row A,B,C or D??
Obviously I couldn't find anything searching on the web or TB forums.

Any help would be greatly appreciated gentleman.

 

[dank GN]

You have to add it as there is nothing in that pin . I had extra pins when I did mine so I just Fabed up a wire and when the 2 step was getting 12vdc the Ecm was receiving the same 12vdc

 

[Fitman]

Thanks man!
You've been very very helpful on this project!

 

[Fitman]

Sorry
Again which row do I add the pin?

 

[Eric Stage I]

Installed a BB 2 step last wknd. Now i need to know how to wire 12vdc to #12 pin to stay in an "open loop" to prevent my chip from trying to keep correcting the AFR.
Can anyone please give me some assistance on this?
I'm sure it's probably on the ECM but what row A,B,C or D??
Obviously I couldn't find anything searching on the web or TB forums.

Any help would be greatly appreciated gentleman.

If you have the 6.1 chip, then you cannot disable closed loop that way. You would just leave "mid boost" closed loop turned off in the parameters (it's already off by default).

 

[No disintegrations]

suscrbd

 

[wb_7354]

I just trim the fuel back in the chip approximately 15%. I also bumped my initial alky turn on to 10psi. I launch at 15psi boost off the foot brake. 1.5 60's


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[No disintegrations]

Fitman,. Did you ever get the brakes to hold better? Before it was rolling with 1 psi iirc. 1 psi is only about 250 torque. More boost than that will still make it roll even with a 2 step I think. Meaning it will roll with 250 torque no matter what RPM or boost as soon as it makes 250 torque it rolls. Make sense?
Need good brakes long story short.

 

[Fitman]

Well I installed some Hawk pads up front that made a huge difference. And I put new long shoes on the rear & roughed up the inside of drums with 80 grit sandpaper. At first I had the shoes to far out adjusted (could hear them grinding going down road) then I adjusted them all the way in. So I plan on bringing them out just a tad to see if that assist with holding it down during brake torqueing.
But to answer your question when I used the 2-step a few times last wknd, it still pushes forward...

 

[No disintegrations]

I think you should make every effort to give it 200 or so stop and go miles to break in. Should help quite a bit over brand new unseated shoes.

 

[No disintegrations]

I think you should make every effort to give it 200 or so stop and go miles to break in. Should help quite a bit over brand new unseated shoes.

 

[Wahoo]

Well I installed some Hawk pads up front that made a huge difference. And I put new long shoes on the rear & roughed up the inside of drums with 80 grit sandpaper. At first I had the shoes to far out adjusted (could hear them grinding going down road) then I adjusted them all the way in. So I plan on bringing them out just a tad to see if that assist with holding it down during brake torqueing.
But to answer your question when I used the 2-step a few times last wknd, it still pushes forward...

It sounds like you didn't adjust your brakes correctly.

All you need to do is tighten the shoes until they start to drag a little when you try to spin the drum by hand, rear tires off.

 

[Fitman]

I think you should make every effort to give it 200 or so stop and go miles to break in. Should help quite a bit over brand new unseated shoes.

Thanks for your response.
Yes I hear/read that quite a bit. Kinda hard to do when honestly only time i drive it is at the track last couple years. Even trailer to track.

 

[Fitman]

Wahoo,
I'll do that tonight.
Thanks!