2-step or not to 2-step??

[Fitman]

Am considering a 2-step to assist in my launch.
I spoke with someone from Full Throttle yesterday and they did a good job explaining what it is and how it works.
Did some more research last night and it appears I need a trans brake to make this function like i'm wanting it to.
Then I read somewhere else that I don't need the trans brake...
I don't understand how the 2-step builds boost w/o a load on the motor.
Can someone please advise on what I need and what to expect?
Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[Lil Truck]

The Bailey 2 step cuts cylinders out at your set rpm i.e. (2800) you can have the throttle down and boost up without breaking the tires free. You do not need a trans brake. You do need to experiment with rpm and max boost for the best launch as you can overpower the tires with to much. Alky injection can be tricky as it may get a rich condition if you raise the boost level to high and activate it at the line. I found it works consistently with just race gas. 1.5x 60 foot on stock suspension and MT drag radials. TSA class races.

 

[No disintegrations]

The engine will be loaded, and needs to be loaded against the convertor. Engine runs normal until hits 2 step limit, then it's held at that rpm by cutting spark. With a foot brake or trans brake the convertor is absorbing heat made by loading it. Meaning trans will get hotter.

 

[Fitman]

Thanks Lil Truck
So do i use my brakes at all during launch?
Just stage, engage 2-step, mash the throttle to floor, then off the button on last yellow light??

 

[69RSCLONE]

You have to hold the brakes. The transmission is still in gear and you are loading the converter just like brake boosting without a 2 step. But say your converter starts pushing through the beam at 5 psi at 2900, with the 2 step engaged the engine will rev to what you set ie 2800 and studder which will allow the exhaust to heat up more from unburned fuel and spool the turbo more. With the throttle 100 percent open already you can build 10,15 even 25 psi without rolling through the beam. Let go of the arming switch and hold on.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

 

[TurboTGuy]

Some guys build a little bracket and mount the button on the left side of the brake peddle so that they can slide or pull (depending on your way of launching) their foot off the brake and button at the exact same time.

 

[Lil Truck]

69rsclone said it correctly!

 

[Fitman]

are these brake brackets sold or do i need to fab my own?
thanks everyone for the help so far

 

[TurboTGuy]

Everyone I know fabbed them up to suit their own particular style.

 

[dank GN]

Here is a video of my 2 step setup . I have it wired so I can use booth the transbrake or the 2 step or both . It is extremely nice to have a trans brake with the 2 step so you can do exactly like u said roll up to the line push the magic button and mat the pedal and release on the last yellow and hold on on

 

[dank GN]

 

[69RSCLONE]

When I had my pedal assembly out to do my vacuum brake conversion, I welded 2 5/16th nuts to the back of the pedal on the left side. Then made a bracket for the switch to sit just to the left of the pedal. So if I decide to remove it some day I don't have a hole in the pedal, even though the rubber pad is worn-out and a new pad would cover the hole.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

 

[TurboBuRick]

I know there are guys who use both but IMO a trans brake is not needed when using a 2 step. The whole point of the 2 step is to build boost with reduced power so you can hold it with the brake. It works very well.

I have a Bailey 2 step for sale. Message me if interested.

Rick

 

[haywire4130]

Heres my switch, I wired my bailey 2 step to a relay to cut power to the alky pump so when the boost comes up past the turn on rpm it wont flood the motor with alky, works like a champ! I love the 2 step and i feel its a little gentler on driveline parts than a trans brake. Makes consistency at the track easier, one less gauge to watch during your launch ritual. Resist the urge to wire it to the brake light switch, the pedal comes back too slowly to be effective

 

[murphster]

A 2 step is just an rpm limiter. It helps you be more consistent with your launches so you always leave at the same rpm and can concentrate on watching the tree to have a good reaction time. If you don't care about your reaction time and can watch a tach or boost gauge it won't help you any.

A transbrake is what you use to build boost to any level you want without having to use the footbrakes and then just release the button to go.

A lot of times you use a 2 step with a transbrake so that it will just go to a certain rpm and then stay there. It can still build boost though, so adding in an electronic boost controller in conjunction will also freeze the boost level at that rpm. And you really need CO2 control for an electronic boost controller to work well..... so just leave it all alone and footbrake it and with practice you'll get better (without all the fancy doodads).

 

[Slow91z]

A 2 step is just an rpm limiter. It helps you be more consistent with your launches so you always leave at the same rpm and can concentrate on watching the tree to have a good reaction time. If you don't care about your reaction time and can watch a tach or boost gauge it won't help you any.

A transbrake is what you use to build boost to any level you want without having to use the footbrakes and then just release the button to go.

A lot of times you use a 2 step with a transbrake so that it will just go to a certain rpm and then stay there. It can still build boost though, so adding in an electronic boost controller in conjunction will also freeze the boost level at that rpm. And you really need CO2 control for an electronic boost controller to work well..... so just leave it all alone and footbrake it and with practice you'll get better (without all the fancy doodads).

While most of this information is correct, you can build more boost with the 2 step on the foot brake as well because when you are WOT with a 2 step keeping the R's from climbing you can hold the car and the boost will climb past what you could usually hold.

 

[Sydwyndr]

Am considering a 2-step to assist in my launch.
I spoke with someone from Full Throttle yesterday and they did a good job explaining what it is and how it works.
Did some more research last night and it appears I need a trans brake to make this function like i'm wanting it to.
Then I read somewhere else that I don't need the trans brake...
I don't understand how the 2-step builds boost w/o a load on the motor.
Can someone please advise on what I need and what to expect?
Any help is greatly appreciated.

Are you using alky injection?? Are you wanting to purchase just the 2-step separate or run the built in version in the TR6 ignition system??

 

[Fitman]

Yes I'm running an Alky kit.
I'd like to purchase the 2-step separately and try that before trans brake.

 

[TurboTGuy]

Yes I'm running an Alky kit.
I'd like to purchase the 2-step separately and try that before trans brake.

With the trans brake, you will loose the 2004R and the overdrive. Maybe you're ok with that......... Me?
Mine's a street car....
Gotta have OD.

 

[dank GN]

Yes I'm running an Alky kit.
I'd like to purchase the 2-step separately and try that before trans brake.

You have to to cut the alky while on the 2 step and also if you have a/f correction on you will need to send 12vdc to pin 12 I believe to go into open loop while on the 2 step .

A 2 step is just an rpm limiter. It helps you be more consistent with your launches so you always leave at the same rpm and can concentrate on watching the tree to have a good reaction time. If you don't care about your reaction time and can watch a tach or boost gauge it won't help you any.

A transbrake is what you use to build boost to any level you want without having to use the footbrakes and then just release the button to go.

A lot of times you use a 2 step with a transbrake so that it will just go to a certain rpm and then stay there. It can still build boost though, so adding in an electronic boost controller in conjunction will also freeze the boost level at that rpm. And you really need CO2 control for an electronic boost controller to work well..... so just leave it all alone and footbrake it and with practice you'll get better (without all the fancy doodads).

Unfortunately I have ventured into this setup with all the things you have listed . It is still a street car as I drive it to sandeigo and back from la . It has a 400 because I got tired of breaking the 200s. I wish I would have went 4L80 when I did the swap to retain the OD but it still isn't bad and I don't have to worry if my trans is going to give out or the numorus other things that can and will go wrong with those 200s . I had the top guys building it and still went through them way to fast .