2-step for stock ignition systems

[TurboBob]

the units are settable 0, 8, 16, and 24 degrees of retard.

This may change as we continue testing, but these settings seemed to work pretty well.

The retard is controlled by its own activation input, separately from the rev-limiter. So its pretty easy to configure the system for different setups.

Bob

 

[HighPSI]

Wow 24 degrees! You can't pull it below the crank sensor's 10 degrees of timing can you?

 

[TurboBob]

um, yes I can.

The current software can go to 40 degrees retard, which would be about 15 degrees AFTER tdc with most chips. I could take it further but I don't believe there is much need.

Bob

 

[HighPSI]

Nice!!!

 

[THE WRAITH]

very interesting.....I am looking forward to see this come available

 

[yullose]

The only issue I see is possibly not enough fine-tune retard adjustment for nitrous.

Using the 2 degrees per 50hp rule, that would require adjustment from 2-12 degrees.

I'm only running a 100hp shot... and 8 degrees *may* be a little too much.

Just food for thought.

 

[scot w.]

I am holding out on the powerlogger, Inovate WB, for this to come out!! Money is waiting!!!


Scot W.

 

[TurboBob]

The only issue I see is possibly not enough fine-tune retard adjustment for nitrous.

Using the 2 degrees per 50hp rule, that would require adjustment from 2-12 degrees.

I'm only running a 100hp shot... and 8 degrees *may* be a little too much.

Just food for thought.

Changing the retard is easy enough. The unit has a USB port on it for easy updates. I will be creating a configuration utility program to setup stuff like this, but that will happen a little later. In the mean time, configuring one for your setup is no problem.

Bob

 

[yullose]

Somehow I knew you would have the perfect answer.

Will it be end user programmable via the USB port ?

 

[TurboBob]

thats what the configuration program will be for.

But in the interest of getting this thing done and out to you guys, that part will most likely come later.

But in the mean time, I can tweak the files here and email them out, the unit will be user flashable from day one. (ok, day zero, they are field flashable now...)

i.e. I could send you a file that had the retard settings of 0,2,4,8 or 0,3,6,9 or whatever (or send you both files..)

Bob

 

[yullose]

Outstanding !

Are they ready for sale yet ?

 

[yullose]

This may sound like a dumb question... but I noticed you mentioned 0,8,16,24...0,2,4,6 and 0,3,6,9...

My question is about the 0 setting.

If the retard only functions when it sees 12V+, would it still need a zero parameter ? Why not 2,4,6,8 or 1,3,5,7, etc...

I'm sure you already know this... but I'll mention it anyway for those that don't...
The MSD retards will activate (retard timing) if they see 12V+ or nothing at all. If they are grounded, they default to zero retard.
In the case of a nitrous solenoid, connecting it to the 12V+ side will ground it through the solenoid coil, keeping timing normal until 12V+ is applied, then it will retard.

Just curious if you were just using the zero as an example, or if it really must start at zero for it to not retard.

 

[TurboBob]

This may sound like a dumb question... but I noticed you mentioned 0,8,16,24...0,2,4,6 and 0,3,6,9...

My question is about the 0 setting.

If the retard only functions when it sees 12V+, would it still need a zero parameter ? Why not 2,4,6,8 or 1,3,5,7, etc...

I'm sure you already know this... but I'll mention it anyway for those that don't...
The MSD retards will activate (retard timing) if they see 12V+ or nothing at all. If they are grounded, they default to zero retard.
In the case of a nitrous solenoid, connecting it to the 12V+ side will ground it through the solenoid coil, keeping timing normal until 12V+ is applied, then it will retard.

Just curious if you were just using the zero as an example, or if it really must start at zero for it to not retard.

The reason for the 0 setting is so that you can turn the retard off without unhooking anything. It will be configurable.

The inputs on this unit are a little different than the MSD.

It triggers only if 12 volts is applied to the activation wire. If nothing is connected, the unit is not triggered.

Bob

 

[Phoneguy]

Sounds awesome. This is a must have for the new motor.

Bryan

 

[TurboDave]

For those of us that don't have a transbrake, or N2O, what would the best install/hookup/operation be??

I've been footbrake drag racing for over 40 years. Can't teach an old dog new tricks.

This sound exciting!!

 

[jasjamz]

For those of us that don't have a transbrake, or N2O, what would the best install/hookup/operation be??

I've been footbrake drag racing for over 40 years. Can't teach an old dog new tricks.

This sound exciting!!

There was mention of a switch on the first page and in the vids but I dont think it will come with the kit. Maybe he could sell it as an added option like Razor does the MAP sensor. Its mounted in the brake pedal.

 

[yullose]

There was mention of a switch on the first page and in the vids but I dont think it will come with the kit. Maybe he could sell it as an added option like Razor does the MAP sensor. Its mounted in the brake pedal.

That's what I'd do if I didn't have a transbrake...

I'd mount a button off the left side of the brake pedal... so when using two feet, the left foot would activate the button and rev limiter... while the right foot could keep the go pedal on the floor.

Hell... you wouldn't even need a transbrake... this setup would just about simulate one anyway.

 

[jasjamz]

Hell... you wouldn't even need a transbrake... this setup would just about simulate one anyway.

But it sure does let the guy in the other lane know he's in for it!:biggrin:
A two step will make him think your GN is breaking up and think he has this one in the bag...

 

[TurboBuRick]

A two step will make him think your GN is breaking up and think he has this one in the bag...

Hehehe!

 

[TurboDave]

That's what I'd do if I didn't have a transbrake...

I'd mount a button off the left side of the brake pedal... so when using two feet, the left foot would activate the button and rev limiter... while the right foot could keep the go pedal on the floor.

Hell... you wouldn't even need a transbrake... this setup would just about simulate one anyway.

Hmmm. not so sure I like that method. If it's mounted to the floor (somehow) you're guessing the pedal has to go down far enough to engage the switch, some may not. Others may go too far and break the switch.
Gotta be a better way. This may take some thought, but a more elegent solution should be there somewhere? What about a thumb button? Either steering wheel mounted or shifter mounted.