2 18's in Regal!!!

[GlockandRoll]

GLOOOOCCKKKK, I WANT BASS MAN...NOT JUST A CUSTOM SYSTEM THAT LOOKS GOOD.

I'll wager $10K that I can out perform your 2 18's from an SPL and SQ standpoint with a box that's less than half the size, with less than 1/2 the RMS 12v power at a given impedance load.
if you cant wager that, make it $1K, $500, pick your poison. I can produce high SPL in the passenger compartment of these cars, and 2 18's in the trunk aren't the way to go.

Been there, done that.

 

[83 Cannon]

I don't have a Donk...I have a Regal Limited that has been in the family since late '83. I'm pretty sure your system can out perform mine seeing as thou I have a blown 3 inch speaker and a busted 4x10 in back; a walkie talkie speaker in bridged mono could beat my system.

Again, my car will just be plain with a few upgrades such as lights (projectors in front...led sequential in back), audio, and overall looks. I've been there and done that too and want to go back because it's been a while.

And please keep bs like that Audiovox unit you sent me to yourself...I'd rather just keep the factory unit that's in there complete with busted speakers and all.

 

[TRICKSIXPA]

I got to say I like the converation going on. One question you had the headlight bezels are 8mm with a 15 torx bit you can buy them at any retail parts store. Well having seen many systems in G bodies
the best sound with bass has always been the tweeters up front 6x9 on the rack and sealed bass boxes in trunk or back seat. We mostly would cut the seat brackets off the rear back seat pad to slide them off when we were crusing around. Got to love the 90's and being pulled over for your car being to loud by Philly's Phinest. I can say I never saw 18" as practical in a car maybe a van but..
I would take good set of 12's anyday. Good luck

 

[BuickMike]

I'll add my 2 cents here. If you really want 18's, go for it. You will need to fire them backwards and angle them more so the box is short enough. You will need to build the box so it takes up all the space in the raised area of the front of the trunk so less space is taken at the back. Those subs need to be as far away from the back as possible. I have seen and done a similar setup in a trunk and I can tell you exactly what is going to happen. You will feel it, but it will sound like the subs are getting cut off or inhibited. That's because they won't have much airspace at all in the trunk. The waves will cancel out. If you pop the trunk so its opened just a crack it will suddenly get loud as hell. I've had 2 15"s in a 6ft back firing box in a G body and have experienced 2 12"s in the back of a 2nd gen Camaro. Both did exactly that. If I were to put big ass subs in the trunk of a G body, I would put some free air subs on a baffle firing into the seat. Even then you will probably need an aperiodic membrane to make it happen because the trunk is not big enough. Way back in the day my friend did this with a couple Kicker free air subs in his Cutlass Supreme. He had a Coustic 300 watt amp running it and it was LOUD!!!!

 

[83 Cannon]

Finally...

@Philly...Finally someone who at least halfway can concur in what Im talking about with this music. Yea I didnt want to even unhook my backseat to let the bass through. I thought about doing a port but donlt know exactly how to go about that either; may do a small or a few small durable mesh style ports in the backseat for it to breath but still be concealed and blend with the stock interior.

@Wendy; Projector lights...yea I haven't hooked them up yet but may jump on it tomorrow. I cant wait to see the outcome.

@Wendy and Forgot cause Im on another page on my phone...I wanted to know they size because I wanted to look into some security screws so that where ever Im parked, they won't be so easy to get out. But sshhhh, dont tell anyone.
I even thought about upgrading the lighting to a digital and/ or 55 watt kit (once I make sure all of my old wiring is safe to do so) to make it brighter.

And before some wanna be smart ass gets on here and tells me that the nominal output of a true hid kit is 35 watts and shouldnt go above that. I know this already. Lets just say, I'll upgrade my bulbs, ballast, and wiring.

@Wendy...OOOOHHHHHHH you got the kit with that little lantern fish type blue bulb below the opening on your H4 kit huh? Yea, those just blow donkey banana's. I got my kit from Pilot...why didnt you do a search really good before purchasing...I would have helped. But you can still make it work if you like. Yea mine are angel eyes (came with plastic little covers (red, green, blue) to change the angel eye look.

 

[Nasty Wendy]

@Wendy...OOOOHHHHHHH you got the kit with that little lantern fish type blue bulb below the opening on your H4 kit huh? Yea, those just blow donkey banana's. I got my kit from Pilot...why didnt you do a search really good before purchasing...I would have helped. But you can still make it work if you like. Yea mine are angel eyes (came with plastic little covers (red, green, blue) to change the angel eye look.

I got them because the pictured light in the add showed that it didn't have that bulb. Thats why I was so pissed. It wasn't suppossed to have that dam bulb.

 

[83 Cannon]

I got them because the pictured light in the add showed that it didn't have that bulb. Thats why I was so pissed. It wasn't suppossed to have that dam bulb.

Damn Wendy, sorry to hear that. Well like I said, whatever your situation I hope it gets straighten out. I was on Bing and saw a guy with a prefab projector that he gutted and slapped a e46 (???) projector in it. Wish I had gone that route cause he even had a kinda funky (but useful) housing that was mainly plastic but it housed that projector so well.

Just look up 4x6 projectors and you should see them, along with mine (yaaaayy Im immortalized lol) and others. Do a bit more research and find somethin that fits to your liking. it's easy dont worry.

I didnt add any housings to mine either, figure the 4x6 effect would be enough. Let me know if you need any info.

 

[83 Cannon]

WENDYYYYYYYYY (and all others) need your help with a decision. I'm looking at the Zed Audio monoblock ( WoofersEtc.com - Minotaur - ZED Audio Monoblock 1000W RMS Amplifier) I saw from woofersetc.com (just for reference purposes) and I'm debating on getting it or maybe some other from ole Zed.

So what's the deal with them. Im used to alot of the "Old School" way of amps; Orion, Lanzar, Hifonics, Autotek, Fosgate, Rodek, etc. So compared to my Autotek MX1500.1, how would the Minotaur perform?? I'm used to an amplifier having to do 2500 or better watts. So are the 1,000watts a more concentrated power? Sort of like a Lotus Elise rather than a Acura RSX (both 200hp)?

Thanks for your help. This amplifier may run a variety of set-ups...I hope.

And this other wonderful piece (WoofersEtc.com - RA - ZED Audio Amp Remote). My goodness...that looks like gold! Is this amp remote just keen for it's own brand or would it help others also??

 

[BandAid]

 

[Nasty Wendy]

Dude I haven't tested new car audio in forever. I can't give you info on none of the new chit. That remote looks to be a pretty neat toy. I'm sure you'd have fun playing with it.

 

[grocerygetter]

hmm...let's see...well, there are some good points that have been brought up and some very humorous stuff as well.
You don't need 18s to hit 18hz if that is what you are after. You could lay a couple of 15s back at about a 30deg angle and do them IB to the back seat and rear deck. You will have to seal off everything going into the car though because the baffle has to be airtight. That would shake hard on the bottom end but you would have more output out of some 12s or 13s ported honestly. G-bodies have a weird issue with bass transfer. I could go into detail, but I will just leave it at that. You want the thing to shake it hard...go with a ported enclosure and some 12s or 13s. My car is stupid flat from 50hz to 20hz...but that's 1100watts on $2500 worth of subwoofers (2). You don't have to go that far for just jammin around. Stick with a current mainstream brand of amplifier, not some BS you don't know about. Buy from a local dealer, get both amp and subs and they will give you ported enclosure spec or you can look into IB stuff.

 

[83 Cannon]

Okay so Im looking at a set of 6x9's and would love to just purchase a pair of those cheap looking speaker baffles for my 6x9's (still may go with 4x10's) and dynamat the outside of them so they can possibly have a better response. Will this work? Has anyone done this with any positive results??

 

[GlockandRoll]

hmm...let's see...well, there are some good points that have been brought up and some very humorous stuff as well.
You don't need 18s to hit 18hz if that is what you are after. You could lay a couple of 15s back at about a 30deg angle and do them IB to the back seat and rear deck. You will have to seal off everything going into the car though because the baffle has to be airtight. That would shake hard on the bottom end but you would have more output out of some 12s or 13s ported honestly. G-bodies have a weird issue with bass transfer. I could go into detail, but I will just leave it at that. You want the thing to shake it hard...go with a ported enclosure and some 12s or 13s. My car is stupid flat from 50hz to 20hz...but that's 1100watts on $2500 worth of subwoofers (2). You don't have to go that far for just jammin around. Stick with a current mainstream brand of amplifier, not some BS you don't know about. Buy from a local dealer, get both amp and subs and they will give you ported enclosure spec or you can look into IB stuff.

Your right, G-bodies do have an issue with low-frequency propogation from the trunk to the passenger compartment. I spent some time talking to Richard Clark about this back in the mid-90's when he retired his car and we tuning the Bonnivelle we took the 97 USAC 1000 watt championship with using AP mats.

The best results, that I've heard so far, with the G-bodies have been with porting band-passes into the 4x10 cutouts or, like I'm doing, firing a sub-woofer rearward towards the license plate, and letting it develope and have the mids out of phase in the passenger compartment - the best solution would be to make the trunk airtight and use 15"s w/aperiodic membranes.. but that's a bit of a chore to say the least.

SpeakerWorks/USD Audio Install Gallery

 

[grocerygetter]

Actually, ib, ap, or corner loading worked best in my tests. I went with corner loading. Think home theater. Also, where the listener is in relation to the drivers is huge. Speaker works and Richard Clark did a ton for this chassis. Gary Biggs gave me some great feedback and ideas at a couple of shows. I thank those guys big time. I think we have done and figured out a couple of new tricks for the old pony in my car.

 

[6APPEAL]

hmm...let's see...well, there are some good points that have been brought up and some very humorous stuff as well.
You don't need 18s to hit 18hz if that is what you are after. You could lay a couple of 15s back at about a 30deg angle and do them IB to the back seat and rear deck. You will have to seal off everything going into the car though because the baffle has to be airtight. That would shake hard on the bottom end but you would have more output out of some 12s or 13s ported honestly. G-bodies have a weird issue with bass transfer. I could go into detail, but I will just leave it at that. You want the thing to shake it hard...go with a ported enclosure and some 12s or 13s. My car is stupid flat from 50hz to 20hz...but that's 1100watts on $2500 worth of subwoofers (2). You don't have to go that far for just jammin around. Stick with a current mainstream brand of amplifier, not some BS you don't know about. Buy from a local dealer, get both amp and subs and they will give you ported enclosure spec or you can look into IB stuff.

x3!!!! I've always had success in G bodies by sealing a forward facing setup to the rear seat/rear deck area in IB, AP, ported and sealed applications. Without sealing the face off, it was just not as impressive. Done some rear firing, but there was always a compromise somewhere that gave less than expeceted results. Sketoe, put some pics up of the new sub setup from USACi finals this year.

I'm just looking to do something "different" when building the next system in the GN. If I can ever get it to the paint and body guy.

 

[GlockandRoll]

x3!!!! I've always had success in G bodies by sealing a forward facing setup to the rear seat/rear deck area in IB, AP, ported and sealed applications. Without sealing the face off, it was just not as impressive. Done some rear firing, but there was always a compromise somewhere that gave less than expeceted results. Sketoe, put some pics up of the new sub setup from USACi finals this year.

I'm just looking to do something "different" when building the next system in the GN. If I can ever get it to the paint and body guy.

Dont go for something too "different" when you have decades of pro-audio experience here.. trust me, the G-bod presents several challenges, and like grocerygetter points out, these problems have been solved by very brilliant minds.

 

[datant69]

from someone who had 2 18's in a cutlass

it's do able without cutting into the trunk. just to give you an idea i had 2 18's run by a zeus amp, back seat was taken out and the box ( even though it wasn't pretty did the job). I did the work myself with 3/4 MDF and made it like a square with the top edges cut out so it would sit up right. used 6X9's in pre fab boxes screwed into the sides by the roof. Now air space wasn't to spec but it sounded great. i had 2 5.25's in each door and 3 inch in the dash for mids and tweets. Wish i had pics but back then i didn't take many pics plus the car was primered ready to paint with a california or targa top depending on which one you'd call it. If your a bass head as i was then this is the setup for you. just to give you an idea of how hard it hit, your vision would be blurred by the bass waves if you tried to drive with the volume up about half way. you can do it but it'll take up your whole back deat and block your rear view mirror which you may check your local laws to make sure the local crime fighters don't harrass you about obstructed view along with disturbing the peace. i never had it measured to see how many DB's i was running but it was plenty for me. Just thought i would put my experiance in there and how i did it which may not an option for you but it's just another opinion. good luck and i'd run a big capacitor to keep up with the demand of power your asking from your system.

 

[8UWITH6]

Wow, lots of bickering here. Lets make this simple. Flip your pre-fab box upside down with the subs angled down towards the trunk floor and see if the trunk shuts. If that doesnt work, give it a twist 180 degrees and have them face forward towards the floor and see if that fits. If that doesnt fit.................. well............... then I guess your building a new enclosure for your 18's. Or just get something to hold the trunk partially closed...................... I mean.............. who cares anyway right?

POINT IS:

Do it right the 1st time, and know the limits of your vehicle.

 

[datant69]

won't work

Wow, lots of bickering here. Lets make this simple. Flip your pre-fab box upside down with the subs angled down towards the trunk floor and see if the trunk shuts. If that doesnt work, give it a twist 180 degrees and have them face forward towards the floor and see if that fits. If that doesnt fit.................. well............... then I guess your building a new enclosure for your 18's. Or just get something to hold the trunk partially closed...................... I mean.............. who cares anyway right?

POINT IS:

Do it right the 1st time, and know the limits of your vehicle.

that won't work the box is too big and FYI facing the subs to the rear in the truck makes it hit harder, i'd say either build another box or go with what i said in regards of no back seat and making the backseat a box.. if the box wont fit in the trunk then you'll have to go another route.

 

[8UWITH6]

I am well aware of the changes in sound depending on how the subs are faced. My post was simply stating that the OP obviously doesnt seem to care much about all the factors that make car audio sound good, he just wants it to go boom. And there is nothing wrong with that if you do it "right". IMO you can put all the 15s and 18s you want in the trunk, and do a free-air/baffle type and use the trunk as your enclosure but I have seen very few of those that sounded great. If you want it to sound great you gotta spend time on it. A 4th order through the rear deck would be badd A but is a lot of work obviously. Im perfectly happy with a single 10" in a slot ported enclosure in my Buick. But as many have said the challenge in these cars is getting the sound from the trunk into the passenger area. Good luck to the OP with your 18" project. Your going to have to spend a little bit more time on it to get it to fit though.