Bad turbo! -- misfiring problem *edit: and knock

[GNRick]

At what speed/boost are you having this misfire?

 

[MAK507]

At what speed/boost are you having this misfire?

Misfiring starts at zero mph when I start giving her gas while driving. I go very easy on the throttle, 780-1600 rpm seems to be its worst state.

I'my at a point where this car has become a financial burden. I purchased all new internals for the rebuild. I purchased her for $9000 and I've already gone about $5K into her. Buying replacement parts at this point to figure out the problem is becoming a financial burden.

I'll have to say goodbye for now and hopefully in a couple years I can find one in a whole lot better conditions. Paint, body and motor-wise.

I'm going to take it to Duttweiler when I get the opportunity, but my hope has been lost from pulling all nighters for the last month.

 

[GNRick]

Before you give up....replace the crank sensor. That solved a misfire I was having at 30-40 mph. So where did the $5k go? Do you do some of the wrenching yourself?

 

[MAK507]

Before you give up....replace the crank sensor. That solved a misfire I was having at 30-40 mph. So where did the $5k go? Do you do some of the wrenching yourself?

Well the turbo was nearly $1k itself... pistons, crankshaft, heads redone, external wastegate, radiator, scan master, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, injectors, fuel pump Hotwire kit, cam sensor, ignition control module, coil pack, plugs, plug wires, maf pipe, maf sensor, translator, chip, harmonic balancer, timing chain, timing chain cover, water pump, oil pump, gaskets, brakes, transmission service, and all the other minor things.

I installed pistons, crankshaft and the heads. With work promotion, over time, three year old and pregnant wife I handed the rest of it to the master mechanic at a reputable shop. He did it on the side. (I now know I should've done it through the shop even though it would've been about $5K labor vs his $2K "non-shop" price.)

 

[GNRick]

Sounds like you have a nice ride. Issue is probably something simple, like bad crank sensor or plug wire. Maybe even mis adjusted translator. At higher rpm's I've had misfires with non AC delco ignition modules and coil packs.

 

[MAK507]

Sounds like you have a nice ride. Issue is probably something simple, like bad crank sensor or plug wire. Maybe even mis adjusted translator. At higher rpm's I've had misfires with non AC delco ignition modules and coil packs.

Damn. The ignition control module and coil pack are from Kirban Performance. They're all I use besides FullThrottleSpeed.

Could my melted ignition control module

Shorted and or melted, thus damaging, my ecm?

 

[John Larkin]

I know you are bummed and yes the money adds up. Take a week off and then get back on it. Module would not hurt the ECM; the module would simply just not work properly or not at all.

 

[Pronto]

Did your master mechanic make sure the grounds on the back of the block are installed?

 

[TurboBuRick]

These cars can be a bitch. Even for the most seasoned mechanic. You are close to nailing it. Don't give up.

Sounds like a crank or cam sensor issue.

Have you tried to run it in limp mode? Start the motor. Unplug the cam sensor and go for a ride. Still miss fire?

 

[MAK507]

These cars can be a bitch. Even for the most seasoned mechanic. You are close to nailing it. Don't give up.

Sounds like a crank or cam sensor issue.

Have you tried to run it in limp mode? Start the motor. Unplug the cam sensor and go for a ride. Still miss fire?

I'll unplug cam sensor during lunch and let you guys know.

What is involved for crank sensor replacement?

 

[GNRick]

Just held in with a couple of screws, drivers side front of motor. Access it from front of car under the bumper. Search for crank sensor installation.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Any luck?

Here is some info on crank sensor. http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/cranksensor.htm

 

[MAK507]

Any luck?

Here is some info on crank sensor. http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/cranksensor.htm

Hey guys!

Uploading videos now to YouTube. Car ran a lot better... However, Knock went up to 7.2 when I went WOT... Could it be false? It'll be on the first video.

 

[Pronto]

Doubtful...

 

[MAK507]

Doubtful...

Could the down pipe hitting the inner part of the body cause it? It's crappy to know there's knock and not know where to start.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Pronto]

Well, you didn't mention the downpipe was hitting the body. That's a no brainer. Move it away. It might be source of the knock but not why the engine is running crappy.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Time to take a closer look at the cam sensor. Remove the cap and check wheel. It should be keyed tight to the shaft. Any kind of slop will translate into drivability issues. Grab wheel and try to turn it right and left. The tab on the wheel that keys it to the shaft is known to break off. RJC makes a repair kit. Also the screw can come loose. A dab of blue locktite will due.
Excessive up and down play will also reap havoc. If this is the case you need a rebuild or a new cam sensor.

Keep up posted

 

[MAK507]

Time to take a closer look at the cam sensor. Remove the cap and check wheel. It should be keyed tight to the shaft. Any kind of slop will translate into drivability issues. Grab wheel and try to turn it right and left. The tab on the wheel that keys it to the shaft is known to break off. RJC makes a repair kit. Also the screw can come loose. A dab of blue locktite will due.
Excessive up and down play will also reap havoc. If this is the case you need a rebuild or a new cam sensor.

Keep up posted

Doesn't even shift until I unscrew the bolt that holds it down. Would me not turning it 1/8 ccw have anything to do with it when I was setting it with the cam tool? I just turned it 1/4 clockwise until it showed up red on the LED tool (not the LED cap)

 

[MAK507]

Time to take a closer look at the cam sensor. Remove the cap and check wheel. It should be keyed tight to the shaft. Any kind of slop will translate into drivability issues. Grab wheel and try to turn it right and left. The tab on the wheel that keys it to the shaft is known to break off. RJC makes a repair kit. Also the screw can come loose. A dab of blue locktite will due.
Excessive up and down play will also reap havoc. If this is the case you need a rebuild or a new cam sensor.

Keep up posted

Doesn't even shift until I unscrew the bolt that holds it down. Would me not turning it 1/8 ccw have anything to do with it when I was setting it with the cam tool? I just turned it 1/4 clockwise until it showed up red on the LED tool (not the LED cap)

 

[MAK507]

Time to take a closer look at the cam sensor. Remove the cap and check wheel. It should be keyed tight to the shaft. Any kind of slop will translate into drivability issues. Grab wheel and try to turn it right and left. The tab on the wheel that keys it to the shaft is known to break off. RJC makes a repair kit. Also the screw can come loose. A dab of blue locktite will due.
Excessive up and down play will also reap havoc. If this is the case you need a rebuild or a new cam sensor.

Keep up posted

Doesn't even budge... It will if I unscrew the bolt that holds it down. Would me not turning it 1/8 ccw have anything to do with it when I was setting it with the cam tool? I just turned it 1/4 clockwise until it showed up red on the LED tool (not the LED cap)