this is why you need to learn to do the work on your own

Toby_Goodmk

Test Fit officianto
Joined
Dec 9, 2011
2000 miles on the engine. 250$ in cometic gaskets. Builder states not to retorque the gaskets. Website states this as well. Blow a gasket today, check torque 65lb at best. This is BS, I wish I could learn and do everything on my own. No one is going to look out for your own stuff like you would and that is sad.
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Alway do my own repairs. Don't have a choice as its either that or sell all the toys. With 3 kids in college I'm Damn lucky I haven't had to sell them. I wouldn't have any toys if I didn't Pimp my mechanical skills. The real job keeps a roof over the farm and food on the table and that s about it. I'm lucky my wife is a tolerant woman who puts up with my toy obsessions. I do find that there is great $atisfaction in being able to handle my own home toy and veg repairs
 
That sucks, I agree. I work on my own and when I do others I treat it as my own, these cars are like my babies:)
 
2000 miles on the engine. 250$ in cometic gaskets. Builder states not to retorque the gaskets. Website states this as well. ..........

How many engine builders and web sites have actual field experience with performance turbo Buick engines?

Sorry Toby, but we also learned the hard way years ago to re-torque all head gaskets, especially steel or laminated ones, before and after fire-up, and continue with intervals depending on use.

My self and others have preached this many times, but unfortunately the info does not get to everyone.
 
for what its worth the current configuration of the expensive .060 using stacked thin shims with three of them embossed i have seen a high failure rate and have had more sealing issues with them then i care to count
the older .060 had fewer layers with thicker steels and only two embossed shims on the outsides and ive even reused those with no problems
I run the .050 in my 86 (je at 0 deck 5.96 rod ) and .045 in the 87 (je but piston is over deck .003 with 5.97 rod ) as those have fewer layers with thicker steel and only the outer shims are embossed . on my stock piston motors with irons i run .040's
i torque on stand 75 or in car , end of day or next day 80 and then after fire up or after moderate track use ill go to 80 again and after a few track visits torque again ..as long as you dont over tighten and overstretch the stud theres no harm in re-torquing
 
I had the pleasure to meet Paul at Kirban's open House last Spring and I know he works on lots of turbo Buicks like I do, and we share lots of the same methods, specifically what he stated about re-torquing heads is right on the mark!
 
I dont believe so. It has been blown for a couple drives is my guess so I am unsure which one it was
I think you should start logging and really looking at things like fuel pressure and volts,afr.you can really chase your tail as things happen real fast on the stronger builds
 
torque was at 60, that is the reason it blew. I do watch the numbers, not every time but often.
 
Breakaway torque? Or pull up torque? Breakaway is always quite a bit less.

FWIW, champion aluminum heads come with instructions to use only 75ftlbs and 65ftlbs for the long studs and short studs respectively
 
Breakaway torque? Or pull up torque? Breakaway is always quite a bit less.

FWIW, champion aluminum heads come with instructions to use only 75ftlbs and 65ftlbs for the long studs and short studs respectively

breakaway is always HIGHER
thats why on a retorque you have to loosen then tighten the fastener in a smooth swinging motion , stop before reaching torque and you need to start over
75 /65 is for stock composition gaskets . cometics are not stock gaskets
my arps studs state 80# and for what we are pushing them to these days even arp says their current off the shelf hardware isnt enough , torqueing above the manufactures recommendation is not advised
 
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