Holy turbo destruction while engine break in!

Ok, just making sure there wasn't a restrictor in place like used on the ball bearing turbos

Got ya. I have decided to take the main bearings out and go .001 undersize to achieve .0015 on the mains. May as well tighten it up a bit.
 
Putting .001" unders needs to happen. 2.5 thou is just too loose. Either your crank is smaller than it needs to be or your bores are out of spec.


That being said, even being that loose won't cause a dramatic oil starvation effect. I talked to a guy a while back that was chasing an oil pressure problem that was causing valve rattle. Turns out it had STD bearings and a 10/10 crank. No catastrophic failure but it did make for a noisy engine. (caveat: It was one of my timing covers so it was all new and tight as hell)
 
Putting .001" unders needs to happen. 2.5 thou is just too loose. Either your crank is smaller than it needs to be or your bores are out of spec.


That being said, even being that loose won't cause a dramatic oil starvation effect. I talked to a guy a while back that was chasing an oil pressure problem that was causing valve rattle. Turns out it had STD bearings and a 10/10 crank. No catastrophic failure but it did make for a noisy engine. (caveat: It was one of my timing covers so it was all new and tight as hell)
Hi Earl glad you chimed in as I am going through the entire cover again with the mods performed. I pulled one main bearing and it is a standard bearing. I'll be plastigauging the mains when it arrives to get a feel for where the mains are at before I put the undersized ones in. pan and screen was clean and the only thing that keeps coming back to the turbo going out was the level of metallic debris from the build in the oil. The pressure will rise with the new bearings
 
The pressure should stay the same everywhere but idle. Tighter oil clearances will allow the relief valve to open more as there's less hemmoraging.

The trick will be to get your clearances tightened up which will allow you to run thinner oil and free up some HP and gas mileage.
 
The pressure should stay the same everywhere but idle. Tighter oil clearances will allow the relief valve to open more as there's less hemmoraging.

The trick will be to get your clearances tightened up which will allow you to run thinner oil and free up some HP and gas mileage.

Earl,

I am running an AN-3 fitting with a smaller feed line right off of the canton oil filter for the turbo bought at gbodyparts. Can this contribute to oil starvation? I already have an AN-4 line coming with new fittings to open the amount of flow to the turbo more.
 
I can't really say first hand on that. I still run the junky stock line and brass block with my turbo.
 
I am not waiting to see if the AN3 line is the culprit. I ordered a new steel braided line with AN4 fittings, there is a definite difference in the diameter of the two lines and fittings. I was able to plastigauge the two center mains today and it does appear .0022 -.0025 is the clearance I am seeing. New -.001 main bearings come in tomorrow and will get the new ones installed and ready to go. I cleaned up the timing cover a bit today and installed new gears for the sake of having new ones and resurfaced the adapter. I got a nice end clearance of .001 on the oil pump. I drilled the optional hole on the low pressure side of the gear pocket that has been discussed in length on the forum. I look forward to it's advantages. If I have low pressure after all this I chock it all up to a bad gauge and will run a mechanical, but from what I think I will be good.

The main bearings didnt look bad at all. There was apparent copper specs show up near the halves of the bearings, that is where the copper from the turbo bearings showed where much of them landed. The crank is smooth as silk. The bearings are wearing nice and even on the short time they ran, so the line bore looks good.

Now to get a good turbo
 
He has a hot air I believe, does that make a difference?

I have been told that the journal hot air type turbos require/need/use more oil that ball bearing turbos. Whether that is true...IDK. As mentioned before, I am opening up that line.
 
If you get the chance it would be interesting to see the main and rod bearings .... ?
 
I am not waiting to see if the AN3 line is the culprit. I ordered a new steel braided line with AN4 fittings, there is a definite difference in the diameter of the two lines and fittings. I was able to plastigauge the two center mains today and it does appear .0022 -.0025 is the clearance I am seeing. New -.001 main bearings come in tomorrow and will get the new ones installed and ready to go. I cleaned up the timing cover a bit today and installed new gears for the sake of having new ones and resurfaced the adapter. I got a nice end clearance of .001 on the oil pump. I drilled the optional hole on the low pressure side of the gear pocket that has been discussed in length on the forum. I look forward to it's advantages. If I have low pressure after all this I chock it all up to a bad gauge and will run a mechanical, but from what I think I will be good.

The main bearings didnt look bad at all. There was apparent copper specs show up near the halves of the bearings, that is where the copper from the turbo bearings showed where much of them landed. The crank is smooth as silk. The bearings are wearing nice and even on the short time they ran, so the line bore looks good.

Now to get a good turbo
Maybe I missed it but the TR Customs comes with a -4 fitting and hose. How come you were running -3?
 

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I am not waiting to see if the AN3 line is the culprit. I ordered a new steel braided line with AN4 fittings, there is a definite difference in the diameter of the two lines and fittings. I was able to plastigauge the two center mains today and it does appear .0022 -.0025 is the clearance I am seeing. New -.001 main bearings come in tomorrow and will get the new ones installed and ready to go. I cleaned up the timing cover a bit today and installed new gears for the sake of having new ones and resurfaced the adapter. I got a nice end clearance of .001 on the oil pump. I drilled the optional hole on the low pressure side of the gear pocket that has been discussed in length on the forum. I look forward to it's advantages. If I have low pressure after all this I chock it all up to a bad gauge and will run a mechanical, but from what I think I will be good.

The main bearings didnt look bad at all. There was apparent copper specs show up near the halves of the bearings, that is where the copper from the turbo bearings showed where much of them landed. The crank is smooth as silk. The bearings are wearing nice and even on the short time they ran, so the line bore looks good.

Now to get a good turbo
Don't just assume that .001 bearings are going to be tighter than standards. Mic them. I have seen plenty of std's and .001's very close in size. Mixing and matching will get your clearences perfect.
 
Don't know if this was mentioned.

One time I had a car with a turbo saver that the main lines "feed and return" we're reversed resulting in starvation to the turbo. That took out the turbo quickly.

Worth double checking.
 
Make sure the crank turns freely when you put in the 1 unders. I've never compared plastigage to real life numbers before.
 
Don't know if this was mentioned.

One time I had a car with a turbo saver that the main lines "feed and return" we're reversed resulting in starvation to the turbo. That took out the turbo quickly.

Worth double checking.

he has the canton setup from mark . its a billet filter can with the turbo feed port in the center of the end cap .. cant be reversed
 
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