lower oil psi

[trixdout]

I don't know much about the theories behind engines. Really don't want to make up some hocus pocus, so please point me in the right direction.

So since I've had the GN, (August 2012), I've had a leak come from the oil pan gasket. I changed it to a fel-pro, and over tightened it, but it actually leaked ALOT less than it does now. So I decided to go the right stuff way and still leaked. It was the worse. Only because I had a brother's friend (mechanic) do it and he tightened the bolts all the way before letting the right stuff sit a little and get a little hard. So I put in the cork gasket and added some right stuff on the oil pan mating surface to the gasket just for good measure.

STILL LEAKS.

I also had another issue of the starter getting heatsoaked, so I wrapped the crossover and got some starter heat shield wrap. Now it starts no problem even when the engine was hot.

BUT, I got a new problem. The wrap is getting soaked from the leaking oil from the oil pan and smoking off. Looks like my car is overheating with the radiator cap blown off (tons of smoke coming form under the hood at a stop light).


My question is this, is there any way to lower the oil pressure so that I don't have so much crankcase pressure. With 10w-30 oil I get 47psi at hot idle. That maybe good or bad I don't know. But for a 100k mile motor it shouldn't be that high.

I don't have the money for a rebuild or anything. Looking for a simple way to lower that pressure (besides not ever starting the motor).

 

[750H.P.V6]

Oil pressure and crankcase pressure are two different things. You need to get a direct reading gauge to verify your oil pressure because it's unrealisticly high. Crankcase pressure comes from blow by or a bad headgasket. The oil leak you have is probably coming from either the rear main seal or the side seals on the rear main cap.

Neal

 

[trixdout]

Oil pressure and crankcase pressure are two different things. You need to get a direct reading gauge to verify your oil pressure because it's unrealisticly high. Crankcase pressure comes from blow by or a bad headgasket. The oil leak you have is probably coming from either the rear main seal or the side seals on the rear main cap.

Neal

That is what I was told before about the two, unrelated. Secondly, the oil is not coming out of the rear main. Neither is it coming from the valve covers. The engine was rebuilt and seems like incorrectly.

 

[earlbrown]

You might want to get that wrap off of your crossover before driving that car again. It'll make a nice wick to burn your car to the ground one day.

Also, clean the living shit out of the outside of the engine. Get every bit of oil and grease off of the outside of it. Then drive the car a little bit, spool it up, what ever it takes to make it leak. When it cools off blow baby powder on the outside of the engine and see where it's wet. Oil has an amazing way of leaking in one place and accumulating in another.

Prematurly tightening up the pan before The Right Stuff set up shouldn't make a difference. intercooled GN pans have numbs all around the gasket surface to space the pan from the block and keep from splitting gaskets (too bad they don't work)

 

[750H.P.V6]

Earls suggestion is a good one for finding the leak. You might find it comes from much higher up on the engine possibly from the back of the intake manifold. You still need to check your oil pressure though. I've never seen a Buick V6 with that much oil pressure at hot idle and I've been messing around with them for a couple of decades now.

Neal

 

[earlbrown]

It can't be oil pressure doing it. The pump pulls from the crankcase and puts its back in the crankcase for a net 0 pressure difference. Plus if the pump were allowed to pressurize the crankcase it would take so much pressure the oil galley plugs would get blown through the timing cover.

The only way to pressurize the crankcase is to leak so much combustion pressure (and/or faulty PCV under boost) as to overwhelm the breathers.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

" blow baby powder on the outside and see where it's wet".
Earl is at it again! Using "real world experience" as a tool, for working on cars!!

As for the real issue. The other posters are right on w/ their assessments. I'll add 3 more.
1. Look at the dimples on the pan rail. Has someone beat them down "smooth"?? If so, the pan is junk.
2. If the ft cover bolt threads are not sealed, the oil will wick around the threads, run down the pan rail, and appear to be coming from the pan gasket. Being this engine has been "rebuilt", this may be the case.
3. Cheapo PCV valves DON'T work.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Here's what I do to pans that leak.

Remove each oil pan bolt one at a time and douch the hole out with brake cleaner. Then use compressed air to dry the hole out. Reinstall the bolts with black rtv.

HTH

 

[trixdout]

It can't be oil pressure doing it. The pump pulls from the crankcase and puts its back in the crankcase for a net 0 pressure difference. Plus if the pump were allowed to pressurize the crankcase it would take so much pressure the oil galley plugs would get blown through the timing cover.

The only way to pressurize the crankcase is to leak so much combustion pressure (and/or faulty PCV under boost) as to overwhelm the breathers.

Well I will get to cleaning the engine tomorrow.

I'd like to think that the combustion pressure is leaking. In one of my threads, possibly the new member intro one. Somewhere anyways, one of the injectors before I had messed with anything was different from the rest. I got a funny feeling that maybe a ring or two is messed up and leaking a lot of pressure to the crank case. Someone did a cheapo fix and now my pressure is retarded high.

Ill go pick up a PCV valve from napa.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[trixdout]

Earls suggestion is a good one for finding the leak. You might find it comes from much higher up on the engine possibly from the back of the intake manifold. You still need to check your oil pressure though. I've never seen a Buick V6 with that much oil pressure at hot idle and I've been messing around with them for a couple of decades now.

Neal

Someone else's hands were inside this engine before. There is no way I did something to mess with the oil pressure.

 

[rmar]

I've found athlete's foot spray to be less messy and easier to direct then baby powder.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

I've found athlete's foot spray to be less messy and easier to direct then baby powder.

Earl claims it tastes bad!

 

[Chuck Leeper]

"Ill go pick up a PCV valve from napa."....... Use a gennie AC Delco valve, and test it for leaks B4 U use it....

 

[broke]

 

[usetaboost]

A worn pcv can make you pull your hair out. Dealing/dealt with that now. Question, does your starter still have the heat shield bolted to the block? If not that's your starter problem. As far as the oil leaks go, maybe the flange on your pan is all twisted up????? I'd try a new sender on your oil guage and see what you get then.

 

[trixdout]

A worn pcv can make you pull your hair out. Dealing/dealt with that now. Question, does your starter still have the heat shield bolted to the block? If not that's your starter problem. As far as the oil leaks go, maybe the flange on your pan is all twisted up????? I'd try a new sender on your oil guage and see what you get then.

The stock heat shield thy is on top of the heat shield looking down on the motor is there. The kenne bell headers like headers I put on (first mistake) the crossover goes right next to it.


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[usetaboost]

have you tried a mini starter?

 

[trixdout]

have you tried a mini starter?

So far, I took the oil-soaked wrap off the crossover and the starter still works even after a fully warmed engine all the way to 180 degrees.

Oil pressure and crankcase pressure are two different things. You need to get a direct reading gauge to verify your oil pressure because it's unrealisticly high. Crankcase pressure comes from blow by or a bad headgasket. The oil leak you have is probably coming from either the rear main seal or the side seals on the rear main cap.

Neal

It can't be oil pressure doing it. The pump pulls from the crankcase and puts its back in the crankcase for a net 0 pressure difference. Plus if the pump were allowed to pressurize the crankcase it would take so much pressure the oil galley plugs would get blown through the timing cover.

The only way to pressurize the crankcase is to leak so much combustion pressure (and/or faulty PCV under boost) as to overwhelm the breathers.

I've found athlete's foot spray to be less messy and easier to direct then baby powder.

A worn pcv can make you pull your hair out. Dealing/dealt with that now. Question, does your starter still have the heat shield bolted to the block? If not that's your starter problem. As far as the oil leaks go, maybe the flange on your pan is all twisted up????? I'd try a new sender on your oil guage and see what you get then.

Which one of you fine gentlemen should I thank and give a 12pack to?!

Fixed the dam issue. Have not tightened the oil pan bolts yet, but no more boost to the crankcase via the pcv valve. Totally got rid of it. I'm a grade a panic artist, hence this thread. I appreciate all the help guys.

Also, any one of you going to carlisle? I can bring the 12 pack for you there. I'm all serious and no joke about it.

 

[turbogn_231]

How did you fix? Replace the PCV? If so, which one did you use?


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[usetaboost]

we all go through it. tend to overthink these cars at times. I'm one that's guilty of that at times, especially the whole pcv thing. I've just finally come to the realization all my smoke is coming from the heads. EIther the valve seals or the guides themselves. Just gotta remember these are 25 yr old cars and small things tend to wear over years, even pcv valves. Just think how many times that orginal pcv check valve has bounced back and forth and how much wear it has!