mikemcvaney
Active Member
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2009
great job it looks great keep it up. youever consider leading your seem? Iknow it sounds crazy but it wont sweell at all .Then finish it with mud.mike
Finally got some time.
- Thread starter charlief1
- Start date
I wish I knew how to lead Mike but I don't know where to buy the supplies or how to do it.
mikemcvaney
Active Member
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2009
speedway motors 200 dollars tubular uppers and lowers with bushings.OMG! He is alive.
mikemcvaney
Active Member
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2009
Its easy all you need is a propane torch some tinning butter a lead paddle and some wax which you can buy at eastwood look em up on line I think its eastwood .comm Ill coach youon if you want. we will try some other things fisrt it is easy . It is actually easier to lead on the side of a ar then the top it is easier to control yhe heat . Im a leadin fool mind u it will still need mud work but the hold out over welds ismuch better thats why the factory uses it. MikeI wish I knew how to lead Mike but I don't know where to buy the supplies or how to do it.
And I work for AZ so the bushings except for the off set axle ones are about $4 each.:biggrin: $118 plus $32 plus $39 for the off sets looks good to me Mike.:biggrin: Maybe my math is off.
Start a thread in the resto section and I'll be more than happy to follow it Mike. Pics are very helpfull as you can see.:biggrin:
And I work for AZ so the bushings except for the off set axle ones are about $4 each.:biggrin: $118 plus $32 plus $39 for the off sets looks good to me Mike.:biggrin: Maybe my math is off.
Start a thread in the resto section and I'll be more than happy to follow it Mike. Pics are very helpfull as you can see.:biggrin:
leading is easy. the eastwood sells the stuff. i will have to start one i guess. i have a few doors that need some leading.
I'd like to see how it's done Matt so please do.
Now on to more work. I spent most of the day in the shop doing the disc conversion on the rear and I can tell you one thing. Make sure you know how to sharpen a drill bit. I ruined 2 bits on the flange for the backing plate and had to sharpen another one so I could finish the job.
I started on the passengers side and I had to figure out what I wanted to do and how. I started by cleaning the rust off first, then painetd the area white so I could see the lines easier. I followed the directions that have been posted on line and added a little for mistakes. More than I needed in the long run but I wanted to make sure I didn't screw up. After the first cut I tried fitting the backing plate on and had to do some more trimming to the flange. The biggest issue is that GM made a ring around the Camaro flange that's not there on the Regal. You must do some measuring to get it centered. Not that big a deal but you have to be good at spacial referencing so you can get it centered.
Once I got the flange cut right I found that the two original bolts were just long enough to hold the backing plate on so I could mark the location for the upper bolts. Once I drilled though the two upper locations I put the bolts in and drilled the lowers. BINGO! This isn't that hard but it does take some thinking on how it needs to be done. Do your research on how to make it work and it will be fine.:biggrin:
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The passenger side is done now so on to the drivers side.:biggrin: It really isn't rocket science but it does take some time to do this. Since I had one side done I decided to make a template so the drivers side would be easier. It was faster but I had to sharpen the drill bit again. I was even using cutting fluid to keep the bit cooler but I guess it wasn't that effective. I got one hole drilled and the second burned the bit again. As you can see though I did get her done today and did an R&R on an intake for one of the dirt cars as well.:smile:
I forgot that I started removing the spring perches and you can now see the shiny metal where it used to be. I'll be working on then tomorrow so keep tuned.
The owner of the dirt car really doesn't have a clue and I'd really like to hit him upside the head with a 2X4 so he'd listen once in a while. 16 Guage to an HEI and the shims on the passenger side front were missing. This guy is a joke to say the least but we just might make the car competitive compaired to the other guys on the track.:biggrin:
I was even using cutting fluid to keep the bit cooler but I guess it wasn't that effective. I got one hole drilled and the second burned the bit again. As you can see though I did get her done today and did an R&R on an intake for one of the dirt cars as well.:smile: I forgot that I started removing the spring perches and you can now see the shiny metal where it used to be. I'll be working on then tomorrow so keep tuned.
The owner of the dirt car really doesn't have a clue and I'd really like to hit him upside the head with a 2X4 so he'd listen once in a while. 16 Guage to an HEI and the shims on the passenger side front were missing.
This guy is a joke to say the least but we just might make the car competitive compaired to the other guys on the track.:biggrin:Attachments
MNcarbturbo
What's Fuel Injection?
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2009
I know you posted what the rear axle is out of but I cant seem to find it. An LS1 car or what?
THe brakes look good!
THe brakes look good!
I'd like to see how it's done Matt so please do.
Now on to more work. I spent most of the day in the shop doing the disc conversion on the rear and I can tell you one thing. Make sure you know how to sharpen a drill bit. I ruined 2 bits on the flange for the backing plate and had to sharpen another one so I could finish the job.
I started on the passengers side and I had to figure out what I wanted to do and how. I started by cleaning the rust off first, then painetd the area white so I could see the lines easier. I followed the directions that have been posted on line and added a little for mistakes. More than I needed in the long run but I wanted to make sure I didn't screw up. After the first cut I tried fitting the backing plate on and had to do some more trimming to the flange. The biggest issue is that GM made a ring around the Camaro flange that's not there on the Regal. You must do some measuring to get it centered. Not that big a deal but you have to be good at spacial referencing so you can get it centered.
Once I got the flange cut right I found that the two original bolts were just long enough to hold the backing plate on so I could mark the location for the upper bolts. Once I drilled though the two upper locations I put the bolts in and drilled the lowers. BINGO! This isn't that hard but it does take some thinking on how it needs to be done. Do your research on how to make it work and it will be fine.:biggrin:
i will post it soon. i have a few 69 camaro doors that need the lead work done. i will post how to do it when i do the doors.
It's out of a late 90's Camaro with a V6 in it.
The interesting thing I found out is the Camaro had a 7.65 ring but has 28 spline axles and they're much thicker than the stock ones. I'm thinking about having them resplined to fit the rear in my car since it's a posi. I may also be able to show how to re-enforce the housing so it'll hold up better. Been doing some research on how to strengthen it so I don't break it.
The interesting thing I found out is the Camaro had a 7.65 ring but has 28 spline axles and they're much thicker than the stock ones. I'm thinking about having them resplined to fit the rear in my car since it's a posi. I may also be able to show how to re-enforce the housing so it'll hold up better. Been doing some research on how to strengthen it so I don't break it.
A friend of mine is much better at welding than I am and has offered to do the welding on the housing for me. He wasn't sure about welding the tube section so we used the Camaro rear to experiment on. Looks great and does anyone need a re-enforced 4th gen camaro rear?:biggrin:
Before you modify the spring pad location you need to level the axle by using the spring pads. Once this was done I started with the stock spring pad location and as you can see it hangs over the back slighty so I cut it off. Now the fourth pic is if you flip it around and very few people will notice it if you come to a tech to make sure it's in the right place. The 5th pic is of the pad in the foward location. This will resist squating on launch which the metric chasis has a tendancy to do as well as some of the A and B body cars. Simple fix but not always legal.:biggrin: If you're just bracket racing and not specific class racing it will help lift the car and keep it from squating on launch.
He wasn't sure about welding the tube section so we used the Camaro rear to experiment on. Looks great and does anyone need a re-enforced 4th gen camaro rear?:biggrin: Before you modify the spring pad location you need to level the axle by using the spring pads. Once this was done I started with the stock spring pad location and as you can see it hangs over the back slighty so I cut it off. Now the fourth pic is if you flip it around and very few people will notice it if you come to a tech to make sure it's in the right place. The 5th pic is of the pad in the foward location. This will resist squating on launch which the metric chasis has a tendancy to do as well as some of the A and B body cars. Simple fix but not always legal.:biggrin: If you're just bracket racing and not specific class racing it will help lift the car and keep it from squating on launch.
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Here's a few more pics of the modified spring mounts for you to look at.
Now on to more of the bracing of the center housing. I will be using 1/2" plate on the top to brace the weak area which is the most common area for the axle to break. Here's a pic of the location it needs to go to keep flex down to a minimum. The other weak area is the 26 instead of a 28 spline spline shaft. I don't know if I can get a 28 spline replacement posi to fit or not but if anyone knows I like to put one in to make it a little stronger. With these mods and a TA rear girdle it should be about as strong as an 8.5" and handle almost the same kind of power.:biggrin:
Now on to more of the bracing of the center housing. I will be using 1/2" plate on the top to brace the weak area which is the most common area for the axle to break. Here's a pic of the location it needs to go to keep flex down to a minimum. The other weak area is the 26 instead of a 28 spline spline shaft. I don't know if I can get a 28 spline replacement posi to fit or not but if anyone knows I like to put one in to make it a little stronger. With these mods and a TA rear girdle it should be about as strong as an 8.5" and handle almost the same kind of power.:biggrin:
Attachments
FlintBuick4Life
Active Member
- Joined
- Aug 26, 2009
Damn Good job Charlie:biggrin:... are you going to put shorter springs on to lower it or are you going with stock height?
Good job Charlie:biggrin:... are you going to put shorter springs on to lower it or are you going with stock height?I'll be using the springs that came in it for now Jase. Gotta get it all back together and running before I scale it to see what springs need to go back in. At that point I'll be looking in the MOOG catalog to see which springs will work or using some other springs out of another supplier.
MNcarbturbo
What's Fuel Injection?
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2009
Looks great! Did you use the spring perches off the G rear end or the ones off the F body rear?
MNcarbturbo
What's Fuel Injection?
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2009
OK, nevermind. You just used the G body ones and flipped them around. I see that now.
FlintBuick4Life
Active Member
- Joined
- Aug 26, 2009
Ok. Well, here are the springs I am going with... 2" drop, but the back shocks will have to be replaced for $65 more.
Buick Regal Lowering Springs DROP Kit 85 86 87: eBay Motors (item 360145663640 end time Aug-31-10 15:01:09 PDT)
Well my net has been down for a few days and I have some updates I need to do.:biggrin: The bracing is done and it looks pretty decent considering that it's one of the few that I've done. I still haven't found whether or not a 28 spline 7 & 5/8" carrier will work or not but the axle housing is done finally and looks good and solid.
