Lonnie,
My post wasn't aimed at you or anyone in particular.
I know it wasn't. Posting my opinion like everyone else. Still need those gov gears if you can help me out.
Lonnie,
My post wasn't aimed at you or anyone in particular.
I know it wasn't. Posting my opinion like everyone else. Still need those gov gears if you can help me out.
I too am partial to the overdrive versus the TH400 but what I really want is a manual transmission... anyone know of someone that converted a Turbo Regal to a manual??
Steve
A good friend of mine who knows transmissions inside and out told me that I am lucky that I do not know how my Turbo Buick Trans is built because if I did I would be afraid to accelerate to get into traffic! He said it is not "if" it will break but "when". I have heard stories of 200-4R being built to withstand decent HP but it is usually easy to get a TH400 to handle the power when built correctly.
Steve
You say in a later post(after Lonnie replied)that your comments weren't directed at anyone in particular. Are you sure? All the regulars know you're talking about Dave here. Please quote Dave saying he is the only builder who has the calibration correct. I know you know how to do this. Please do so.There are too many successful builders on here for any one builder to claim they are the only builder who has THE "calibration".
Are you sure you're not talking about anyone in particular?.
He hasn't just came on here and told everyone to PM him, or say he's been doing it for decades now.
Man this reminds me of the other this vs. that threads. If they all are so confident in their work, why only a one year warranty...:wink:
Oh, lemme guess, not warranty on race parts... lol
Jake the final adjustments to the the 3/2 mod was an instant success.It fixed any gray areas on the 2/3 upshift.The direct clutch problems are over.
Hi Jake,
I personally build my units the same. As I have found out over the years the fella that says he is only running hi 10s ends up in low 10s and then hi 9s or even faster. So I build the unit to get there if needed or not. But I am very consistent. I use the same clutch/Band/Servo/Line pressure etc. I also take into consideration the factors as the unit wears will come into play at some point. I have found that something as simple as s fluid change from dextron3 to type f can alter the shift timing. So my calibration works good for my transmission build. Is it the best? It is for my unit.
I am way late in the game here. And I agree 100% with Lonnie`s entire post, the above sums it up the best though for me.
I build all the units the same as well, except with the use of billet internals needed in THAT build. Sometimes in a higher power car with use a slightly different direct clutch set up. But, hydraulically they are all the same. And have been the same since the late early 1990`s. With the only revision being a 550 and 400 booster valve.
With an Art Carr drum, or similar. In a non lock up trans you can push these things far beyond what the trans "should" take. We had a great heat treating deal set up that was (very) similar to Art`s. Now, much to my disappointment, all units get a billet drum. I would continue to use Art`s pieces, but with the now more afforable billet drums, it is just not worth the small difference in cost.
For whatever reason David takes an awful beating here in many threads. But, he was an EARLY leader in the 2004R performance game. He has offered up to help people build there trannies, diagnose, or better them. What more could you do than that??
As builders, we all have a bit of a chip on our shoulders. We all want to have the best product, this is what drives us to continue to do this work. We certainly do not do this to be attacked everytime we voice our findings and experience. What works for one guy, will not work for another. We all know this.
We have one vendor who gives tech to his "posie", and free or WAY reduced pricing (which is great for him for avdertising and watching his back) on products to "their minions" to talk them up. Basically "bribing" them to continue the brainwashing of this entire forum. Billet hypnosis at work.
I probably should have not gotten in here to speak my peace. But, why is it that only one specific vendor here is ALWAYS right? I have never heard them say anything but "mine is the best", or "I have perfected this", or "this is the real reason this or that fails". Man, I for one, am tired of seeing all the chest pounding, and all the other B.S. that goes along with this effort to discredit someone.
When the dust clears, and all of the sales slow. The guy who sells the most units will probably wish he charged more to cover warranty repairs.
Brian
Sorry for clouding your thread. Typically mid low 12s. There have been some get in the mid 11s and some claim faster but that is not the norm. If it has the factory stator you will be had pressed to run 12s for long. If its had the benefit of a hard stator I think 12s for a while. The band tends to fail on cars that start to make 12 second power.Thanks for the input on how I can make the trans stronger....but it still doesn't answer my question as to how hard I can push a stock 200-4R BRF trans that is in working shape before it dies.