200-4R durability

As it relates to 200-4R builds, I have had a consistent 10.10 - 10.20 street car for over 9 years with a Husek transmission. I purchased units built from FB Performance, Art Carr, and Husek so I have a good idea of how some of the better builds out there perform at street/track duty. I admit that I have no billet parts in my transmission but will consider them when I decide to make more power. What I do know is that Husek's transmission has taken my constant street/track abuse, always shifted precisely without problems and IS RELIABLE!!!!! When I do decide to upgrade, Turbo Buick Performance will do it.

I do have a few bad things to say about the shady dealings of other transmission builders, but I rather give my abovementioned good experience to the forum. As for the tranny builders that steal parts from clients, butcher builds, swap out real client GN cores for junk and are generally cklueless... my advice - just stay away from them.
 
I know it wasn't. Posting my opinion like everyone else. Still need those gov gears if you can help me out.

Lonnie,
I didn't forget about you. I've been so buried up with trans builds and testing at the shop that I haven't been out and about for weeks.
I made a mad scramble last week before we got snowed in to get some cores, parts, and do some parts running.

I can get more of the governors. I think for the same deal as last time. I'll call you in a bit, gotta run to my daughter's basketball game.
 
A good friend of mine who knows transmissions inside and out told me that I am lucky that I do not know how my Turbo Buick Trans is built because if I did I would be afraid to accelerate to get into traffic! He said it is not "if" it will break but "when". I have heard stories of 200-4R being built to withstand decent HP but it is usually easy to get a TH400 to handle the power when built correctly.

I too am partial to the overdrive versus the TH400 but what I really want is a manual transmission... anyone know of someone that converted a Turbo Regal to a manual??

Steve
 
I too am partial to the overdrive versus the TH400 but what I really want is a manual transmission... anyone know of someone that converted a Turbo Regal to a manual??

Steve

Sit tight Steve. We have billet aluminum RM VB with Trans brake like our Griner 400Vb. Hope to have it ready to go in the next couple months. Serious piece for the 200. Same for the 4L80E.
 
A good friend of mine who knows transmissions inside and out told me that I am lucky that I do not know how my Turbo Buick Trans is built because if I did I would be afraid to accelerate to get into traffic! He said it is not "if" it will break but "when". I have heard stories of 200-4R being built to withstand decent HP but it is usually easy to get a TH400 to handle the power when built correctly.
Steve

You really want to scare him... show him a stock block, rods and crank that lots have run 9s in :eek::p
 
There are too many successful builders on here for any one builder to claim they are the only builder who has THE "calibration".
You say in a later post(after Lonnie replied)that your comments weren't directed at anyone in particular. Are you sure? All the regulars know you're talking about Dave here. Please quote Dave saying he is the only builder who has the calibration correct. I know you know how to do this. Please do so.
 
Man this reminds me of the other this vs. that threads. If they all are so confident in their work, why only a one year warranty...:wink:

Oh, lemme guess, not warranty on race parts... lol:rolleyes:
 
Man this reminds me of the other this vs. that threads. If they all are so confident in their work, why only a one year warranty...:wink:

Oh, lemme guess, not warranty on race parts... lol:rolleyes:

2 Years on my Stage 3 units. Break it racing? Its still covered.
 
Jake the final adjustments to the the 3/2 mod was an instant success.It fixed any gray areas on the 2/3 upshift.The direct clutch problems are over.
 
Jake the final adjustments to the the 3/2 mod was an instant success.It fixed any gray areas on the 2/3 upshift.The direct clutch problems are over.

I have not had a 3rd gear clutch failure in 9 years. Glad you got it all worked out.
 
Hi Jake,


I personally build my units the same. As I have found out over the years the fella that says he is only running hi 10s ends up in low 10s and then hi 9s or even faster. So I build the unit to get there if needed or not. But I am very consistent. I use the same clutch/Band/Servo/Line pressure etc. I also take into consideration the factors as the unit wears will come into play at some point. I have found that something as simple as s fluid change from dextron3 to type f can alter the shift timing. So my calibration works good for my transmission build. Is it the best? It is for my unit.



I am way late in the game here. And I agree 100% with Lonnie`s entire post, the above sums it up the best though for me.

I build all the units the same as well, except with the use of billet internals needed in THAT build. Sometimes in a higher power car with use a slightly different direct clutch set up. But, hydraulically they are all the same. And have been the same since the late early 1990`s. With the only revision being a 550 and 400 booster valve.

With an Art Carr drum, or similar. In a non lock up trans you can push these things far beyond what the trans "should" take. We had a great heat treating deal set up that was (very) similar to Art`s. Now, much to my disappointment, all units get a billet drum. I would continue to use Art`s pieces, but with the now more afforable billet drums, it is just not worth the small difference in cost.

For whatever reason David takes an awful beating here in many threads. But, he was an EARLY leader in the 2004R performance game. He has offered up to help people build there trannies, diagnose, or better them. What more could you do than that??
As builders, we all have a bit of a chip on our shoulders. We all want to have the best product, this is what drives us to continue to do this work. We certainly do not do this to be attacked everytime we voice our findings and experience. What works for one guy, will not work for another. We all know this.
We have one vendor who gives tech to his "posie", and free or WAY reduced pricing (which is great for him for avdertising and watching his back) on products to "their minions" to talk them up. Basically "bribing" them to continue the brainwashing of this entire forum. Billet hypnosis at work.

I probably should have not gotten in here to speak my peace. But, why is it that only one specific vendor here is ALWAYS right? I have never heard them say anything but "mine is the best", or "I have perfected this", or "this is the real reason this or that fails". Man, I for one, am tired of seeing all the chest pounding, and all the other B.S. that goes along with this effort to discredit someone.
When the dust clears, and all of the sales slow. The guy who sells the most units will probably wish he charged more to cover warranty repairs.

Brian
 
Anyone that cares to see details check out my website in the next few days. I will have some interesting facts and comparisons.[/QUOTE]

I missed the final line!!
Can`t wait to see! I love comparisions!
 
Thanks for the input on how I can make the trans stronger....but it still doesn't answer my question as to how hard I can push a stock 200-4R BRF trans that is in working shape before it dies.
 
If I were to get specific, it would be about more than one builder.
So no my post wasn't aimed at one specific builder despite what some of the "nuthuggers" here may seem to think.

Dave does fit into the category of "PM sent" though.
Anybody need me to quote that?
 
Thanks for the input on how I can make the trans stronger....but it still doesn't answer my question as to how hard I can push a stock 200-4R BRF trans that is in working shape before it dies.
Sorry for clouding your thread. Typically mid low 12s. There have been some get in the mid 11s and some claim faster but that is not the norm. If it has the factory stator you will be had pressed to run 12s for long. If its had the benefit of a hard stator I think 12s for a while. The band tends to fail on cars that start to make 12 second power.
 
I wouldnt and dont recommend a stock unit for anything other than a 12 second et.A billet drum to low elevens,and full billet beyond.Thats how I build them my way,everyone else has there choice.I sold 2 full billet units today and both customers had multiple hard parts and friction element failures on their previous builds.The full billet unit is a good choice at a reasonable $1999.00.If people think they can go faster with less or for less there are other options .I know I have clutch and band failure corrected on my units so it is only right to offer the billet parts beyond those corrections because they do fail.Dont be offended by how I do things,be secure in how you do things if they work for you.Im confident in my builds and combos.I have the machinery to produce the parts ,and can make them affordable to those who choose to purchase here.Im sure the 11 units that are in and going out will be a testimony to the product,and if anyone has an issue it will be dealt with properly.
 
You say A full billet trans. in every car that runs faster than low 11's, I would disagree with that. I can see why you would push those billet parts and as your opinion would be slightly bias, in my eyes, as you are the person profiting from these billet part sales. For example your billet drum went from 449.00 to below 279.00 as you guaranteed to beat the sale of another advertising vendor. At that price your still turning a nice profit on this single billet part but I can hardly say you were doing a service to the Buick community with your past pricing. There is a fine line between getting paid for your time and effort and flat out taking advantage. As far as the 1999.00 full billet special goes there's alot more parts in that tranny that can fail then the 4 or 5 billet parts. I would rather go with a builder who is honest and fair with his pricing from the beginning. I would much rather go down the track with a well built unit over a unit with a pile of billet parts . IMO
 
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