Solid 9 Second turbo?
- Thread starter karolko
- Start date
Compression ratio will help alot, thats a good start. It depends if the converter is a good one as art carr or ptc. My converter drives fairly tight on the street but will go easily 4500 on the brake, depends on the pump configuration and design. Talk to dusty he knows what specs to order for you.
GNVYUS 1
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2002
Are you in a hurry to get the turbo this summer, if not call PTE. The new turbo's spool faster and make more power. The wheel I gave the example of had dyno proof showing how the new 62mm PTE wheel made more power and sooner than the old 67mm wheel.
The new PTE turbo's make a tad more power and sooner than a turbo 5 comp wheels bigger. So if a 68mm came out it would make about as much as the current 72-74mm wheels would.
The new PTE turbo's make a tad more power and sooner than a turbo 5 comp wheels bigger. So if a 68mm came out it would make about as much as the current 72-74mm wheels would.
i have a eric Shultz sp? 3200 lock up converter. when i footbrake at street lights i get to o boost at around 2500 rpm. any idea what that would convert to on a t-brake.
regardless, if i run too tight of a converter, then i will increase spool up time which i do not want to do.
Norbs, how responsive is you car to boost on a tighter converter. what is your setup anyways?
GNVYUS 1, PTE, presision turbo E_____? i am not in a huge hurry, but by late august i guess. would it be cheaper to get a turbo straight from them?
thanks
regardless, if i run too tight of a converter, then i will increase spool up time which i do not want to do.
Norbs, how responsive is you car to boost on a tighter converter. what is your setup anyways?
GNVYUS 1, PTE, presision turbo E_____? i am not in a huge hurry, but by late august i guess. would it be cheaper to get a turbo straight from them?
thanks
GNVYUS 1
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2002
Precision Turbo & Engine
Precision Turbo & Engine - Turbocharger, Intercooler, Fuel Injector, Performance Parts & more!
Sometimes vendors have great sales but I live in IL so I usually go through them since they are IN.
Precision Turbo & Engine - Turbocharger, Intercooler, Fuel Injector, Performance Parts & more!
Sometimes vendors have great sales but I live in IL so I usually go through them since they are IN.
Your not going to be able to hit your hp requirement for the performance you originally stated. Too small of a compressor wheel and not enough exhaust flow with a 76 trim exhaust wheel. You really need something that will go to 2800 at zero boost/vacuum to get the turbo going. 3000 is even better. Your only gaining a little compressor over what you already have. Maybe 20 more hp when run hard.
I am using a th400 with a ptc3800 rated 9.5 converter with a gear vendors overdrive. Small 231 ci motor with a 224 solid roller cam, ta heads and headers. 8.5 compression and a 71 pte gts turbo .81 a/r 4 bolt with 3.5" dp, liquid intercooler sheet metal intake, 80mm TB 83's gen 7, stage 1 block billet rods and crank, msd crank trigger and distributer, dyno;d tested at 218hp, long story. Will go back to the dyno soon. Spool time from idle to 14 psi is about 3 seconds. With a 76gts this time goes up to about 6 seconds,which i consider not streetable. rusing rpm is 2500 in od and no converter slippage on the highway on light throttle
Out of curiosity, why is the 66mm only good for mid tens? Is it your altitude? I was always under the impression that they where low 10 second turbos.
Its good for much faster than most think. Most on here arent even close to maximizing the turbo they have. Not you though. You have proved that with the PT54 and .63 ex housing
. You have an anomaly with that combo. No ones ever came close to those numbers with that turbo. The 67 isnt going to take you much further than the 66. That is unless the turbo is an HPQ or GTQ. The 66 GTQ has been very low 10's. With the 76 trim exhaust wheel its being choked badly once mph is in the high 120's. I had a T72 with a 76 trim exhaust on the car before. Its picked up quite a bit of mph with the GTQ even though the comp wheel is 6mm smaller. Just proves the exhaust side needs the most attention.When i bought the car it vame from Rhode Island, so sea level, now the previous owner did one pull at the track and he did a 10:6 at 128. now the turbo is a turbonetics t66 with a single bb. it is also a p trim.
I have heard that a pt 6776 bdd (which i am assuming is a gtq) can touch the nine's. that is all i want.
even up at my elevation i liked the power of the turbo i had on there, but the typical rule i hear from the boys around town is that you should tack on 1/2 a second to you time slips from sea level. Now i just cannont live with myself knowing i have a 11 second car. no sir
Bison, you say that after the high 120 mph the turbo starts to crap out, but my worry here is if i go to a 70gtq, then i will have to run mid 20 psi to really start pushing out that power.
i want to put down 500hp to the wheels at around 20psi. that would be my street uniform, c16 and a whack load more boost at the track.
help.... So so very confused still.
i wounder if there would be anyone willing to do a heads up comparison between the gt 6776 and 70gtq on the dyno. i would be willing to use my new build motor, but i do not want to buy both turbos
I have heard that a pt 6776 bdd (which i am assuming is a gtq) can touch the nine's. that is all i want.
even up at my elevation i liked the power of the turbo i had on there, but the typical rule i hear from the boys around town is that you should tack on 1/2 a second to you time slips from sea level. Now i just cannont live with myself knowing i have a 11 second car. no sir
Bison, you say that after the high 120 mph the turbo starts to crap out, but my worry here is if i go to a 70gtq, then i will have to run mid 20 psi to really start pushing out that power.
i want to put down 500hp to the wheels at around 20psi. that would be my street uniform, c16 and a whack load more boost at the track.
help.... So so very confused still.
i wounder if there would be anyone willing to do a heads up comparison between the gt 6776 and 70gtq on the dyno. i would be willing to use my new build motor, but i do not want to buy both turbos
The 6776 is just that a 76 trim exhaust (p-trim). Just what you have now. 67GTQ or HPQ is what id go for for if i wanted low 10's and high 9's at sea level. You need more comp wheel at altitude. The 6776 likes to be in the mid 20's also on a 231ci. The difference between a 6776 and a turbo like a 70GTQ is that you would run a larger cam and move the rpm band up some but still make the power at 25-28psi. 500whp at 20psi is going to need a 9.0:1 engine, a really efficient TC like the one i have, and a good tune. Assuming a 231ci. Theres no need to dyno the 2. Theres plenty of feedback on this site. A lot of guys have run the 70 GTQ (TSM) and many street guys have run the 6776. You average TSM engine goes about 140mph when run hard with a GTQ and most of the hardcore street guys go 126-128mph with a 6776. About 175 hp difference there. If the 6776 was run really hard and out of its efficiency range like the TSM guys run theirs it could probably go 133mph. So maybe 80-100hp difference. But remember the TSM guys are forced to run a tiny turbo. You can run anything you want. Your not losing a half sec. on a forced induction car at altitude either. Maybe a tenth or a little more. Dont let those guys fool you. A bigger comp wheel will eliminate all of those potential losses. Id go for the GTQ and a new 9.5 PTC converter myself.When i bought the car it vame from Rhode Island, so sea level, now the previous owner did one pull at the track and he did a 10:6 at 128. now the turbo is a turbonetics t66 with a single bb. it is also a p trim.
I have heard that a pt 6776 bdd (which i am assuming is a gtq) can touch the nine's. that is all i want.
even up at my elevation i liked the power of the turbo i had on there, but the typical rule i hear from the boys around town is that you should tack on 1/2 a second to you time slips from sea level. Now i just cannont live with myself knowing i have a 11 second car. no sir
Bison, you say that after the high 120 mph the turbo starts to crap out, but my worry here is if i go to a 70gtq, then i will have to run mid 20 psi to really start pushing out that power.
i want to put down 500hp to the wheels at around 20psi. that would be my street uniform, c16 and a whack load more boost at the track.
help.... So so very confused still.
i wounder if there would be anyone willing to do a heads up comparison between the gt 6776 and 70gtq on the dyno. i would be willing to use my new build motor, but i do not want to buy both turbos
what do i stand to loose if i go to a 70 gtq compared to a 6776? i know there are some things.
also, i am nearing the end of my budget, so i do not want to be spending too much more money to get this thing going. if i were to go to the 70 gtq, or hpq as the now call it, what type of cam would you recommend i run? currently i have a 212/212 full roller cam.
And since i have you around bison, i currently have a 3200 stall lock up converter from Eric Shurtz? what makes your converter better than mine? (i am not trying to be pompous, just want to know how they can differ.) aren't most people going with a 3400 for the dbb?
thank you soo much for your help it is making me think good and hard as to what i want to accomplish.
Adrian
also, i am nearing the end of my budget, so i do not want to be spending too much more money to get this thing going. if i were to go to the 70 gtq, or hpq as the now call it, what type of cam would you recommend i run? currently i have a 212/212 full roller cam.
And since i have you around bison, i currently have a 3200 stall lock up converter from Eric Shurtz? what makes your converter better than mine? (i am not trying to be pompous, just want to know how they can differ.) aren't most people going with a 3400 for the dbb?
thank you soo much for your help it is making me think good and hard as to what i want to accomplish.
Adrian
Id leave the cam alone unless you want to go solid. The 212/212 is good to 5800. I have it in my black car. With the right converter it could nail down 135-140mph. MIne should go 131-132 (66GTQ) the way it is now. If you have a 3200 stall you should be good with the BB gtq. Id go a little more if i had a choice i would use a 3400-3600 myself with a 70 GTQ BB. Ideally i need a little looser down low but its not a problem The only reason you would go with the bigger comp wheel is because of the altitude. The converter i have is a PTC 9.5 NL. Its a serious converter for a racer trying to extract the maximum out of combo. Spoolup is great and the coupling efficiency is excellent. Under 5% slip up top. You will need to post some data logs so we can look at your converter slip. Its hard to speculate without data. I know the PTC 9.5 units are proven performers in all the race classes at BG. Look at the fastest and you will find 9.5 PTC converters behind the engines.
okay then, so if my thought process is working correctly, then if were to bump up my static compression, this will offset the stall of converter i would have to run? is that correct?
in this scenario, if i bump up the compression to 9.0:1 and run the 70gtq dbb could i run somethign like a 3200 converter.
Now how will a tighter converter effect my mph at the track? will a tighter converter take away from my et's or will it allow room for higher ones?
or would a 9.0:1 compression and a 3400 be better?
in this scenario, if i bump up the compression to 9.0:1 and run the 70gtq dbb could i run somethign like a 3200 converter.
Now how will a tighter converter effect my mph at the track? will a tighter converter take away from my et's or will it allow room for higher ones?
or would a 9.0:1 compression and a 3400 be better?
GNBRETT
Pelennor Fields
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2004
Yea, what he said...
Increasing the comp ratio might lower the stall requirement 200 per point. Plan on around 3500.
I've been following this thread with great interest. It's interesting that the majority of responses are talking about turbo size and construction and although very important, there's much more to running a 9 second timeslip than a bigger turbo. My experience tells me that most average turbo racers aren't seeing the maximum that their existing turbo (whatever size ) can deliver !
Adrian is wanting to run a 9 second pass, he hasn't ever mentioned he wants to MPH in the stratosphere.
Suspension, converter, gearing, weight of the vehicle, boost CONTROL, driver experience and most of all, the right tune (not song) all have a major role in lowered et's.
The highest MPH and/or the fastest car doesn't always win the race.:wink: A good 60ft will lower et considerably !
Just another way of looking at this goal of Adrians.
Adrian is wanting to run a 9 second pass, he hasn't ever mentioned he wants to MPH in the stratosphere.
Suspension, converter, gearing, weight of the vehicle, boost CONTROL, driver experience and most of all, the right tune (not song) all have a major role in lowered et's.
The highest MPH and/or the fastest car doesn't always win the race.:wink: A good 60ft will lower et considerably !
Just another way of looking at this goal of Adrians.
six slinger
New Member
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2007
i agree with old timer , and would like to add that you could try to lighten up the gn by 300-400lbs and that would make your goal of 9s a little easier! and also easier on the drive train!
The thread is called "solid 9 sec turbo". Most realize theres a lot more to a 9 sec et than a turbo. We have already touched on a few of the things you mentioned. Tuning seems to be the one step most miss.
