Solid 9 Second turbo?

[karolko]

I am in the process of building a 9 second street car. it is 90% street/10%strip used, but his thing needs to be very streetable, but still put down 9 second runs.

i have looked all over the place on the forum but i could not find something specific to me.

my problem is that i am at 3500ft. considerably higher than most of you, so i need to take that into consideration. so i am thinking a turbo that does mid nines at sealevel will do high nine's at my elevation.

let me know what you guys think.


Adrian

 

[RUQWKNF]

More info please....

We need more info about your build, IE motor size and what not.
235 CI? 250CI? 274CI?

With your altitude, you're definitely going to need something in the neighborhood of a 74mm compressor wheel equipped turbo.

Tell us more about your combo.


Patrick

 

[karolko]

Sorry for the double post guys, i dont know what happened.

231 CI setup with champion irons, a gn1 intake, XFI, 212/212 full roller setup with 1.55 rockers, RJC girdle, k1 rods and diamond pistons, eagle crank. turbonetics racegate, and all the little trinket like "the wheel", bj balancer, aluminum pulleys, but all that stuff does not matter i don't think.

oh i have a 3 bolt header as well and i would like to keep the thing, i am already breaking the bank by buying a new turbo...

let me know if there are any more specifics you would like.

thanks again

 

[skeen]

I"m useing a 81mm ,and spray 100 shot till it gets to 10 psi . the xfi will controll it all, spools like a 74mm.. but has HUGE lungs on the top.. for an EVERYDAY driver I"d buy a 74 from harry, better yet, I"d just call harry and tell him what I wanted to do,AND expected it to run.. he"s a straight shooter. no BS.. if he tells you it will run 9.80s or 8.90s you can believe it !!! jack cotton is also a good source.. and is ALWAYS available.. just m 2 cents... steve

 

[86brick]

Roy/Laz had pretty much the quickest/fastest iron headed stock cube 234" 109 in all the land.. They ran several 6.0 @114mph passes in the 1/8th (basically a high 9.40 @144-145mph in the 1/4 mile) with a TSM legal 70GTQ 3-bolt turbo. Now with the DBB option that is available I think the DBB 70GTQ would personally be my choice for a nice street friendly 9 sec turbo.

Here's one of Roy's aborted passes where he ran a 6teen @ only 111.94mph in the 1/8! Not too shabby for an iron headed stock cube motor

[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRAPoAXwuJg[/YOUTUBE]

 

[skeen]

I don"t see the AC !!!!! TOO hot to ride around with no air !!! LOL!!!! clean though..

 

[karolko]

some one mentioned a 6776dbb, but i just don't think it has the lungs to get the job done, i currently have a t66 bb and she is only good for mid 10's

i may be leaning towards the 70mm,

what is the difference between the gtq and hpq (i think that is what the new one is)

 

[86brick]

some one mentioned a 6776dbb, but i just don't think it has the lungs to get the job done, i currently have a t66 bb and she is only good for mid 10's

i may be leaning towards the 70mm,

what is the difference between the gtq and hpq (i think that is what the new one is)

Basically the HPQ is Precision's updated exhaust wheel and is more efficient and capable of more power than the GTQ. However, I'm really not sure it would make much of a difference if any on a car like yours that is stock cubes with iron heads. In all honesty, the 70GTQ is a very hard turbo to beat. It's a proven piece, several guys with aluminum heads have been as fast as 9.30's with it, and the iron headed guys have been low 9.50's high 9.40's.

 

[karolko]

does precision make a 70 gtq dbb 3 bolt? or do i have to run a 4 bolt header?

 

[86brick]

Yes they make the 70GTQ DBB in the 3-bolt.

 

[Underboost]

I have a stock stroke 20 over bore a 70-GTQ w/ .85 housing. I had Iron heads on it and the fastest I went was in BG last year 1.56 60ft 10.12@134mph with 72's and a TT chip. Now I have no AC Alum heads with bigger valves the new Speed Density MAFless chip from Eric. I'm trying to get my FAST Air/Fuel to read correctly with the power logger. My best in the 1/8 with the tune all screwed up was 1.43 60ft 6.38@109. So to answer your Q yes the 70-gtq will get you in the 9's you need the right stall also.

BTW This is the Turbo.

 

[GNVYUS 1]

I'd talk to PTE about when they are going to release the bigger Billet/Boosted Ball Bearing turbo's for us. You'll get the more updated turbo out there so you can spool and have the best flow possible.

Considering the new 62/65 replaces the 6776 anything around a 66 or 68mm wheel will get you where you want to go.

 

[karolko]

could you explain your statement "Considering the new 62/65 replaces the 6776 anything around a 66 or 68mm wheel will get you where you want to go."

i am just a little confused. is that what you are running and if so what was your best 1/4 mile.

 

[bison]

Id go right to the 76 GTQ unless you want to go 4 bolt. If you plan on buying headers and a dp its a wise decision at this point. You leave a lot on the table with the 3 bolt

 

[ijames]

Yes, it is true the tsm guys have gone low 9's with a 70 mm turbo but those cars are pretty much all out race cars turning some pretty big rpms, probably running 30-35 psi boost, mostly 245+ cu in strokers, and doing it under 1000 feet elevation. Besides, why run a smaller turbo you have to lean on as hard as possible to meet your goal, instead of going a little bigger so you can keep the boost down, if you don't have a class rule forcing you to. If Patrick says you need at least a 74 turbo at your altitude, I'd listen to him.

[Yes, I know a couple tsm cars see some steet miles and are only 235 cu in, but think how few of those there are and how many guys have blown up trying to run mid 9's in tsm.]

 

[86brick]

Yes, it is true the tsm guys have gone low 9's with a 70 mm turbo but those cars are pretty much all out race cars turning some pretty big rpms, probably running 30-35 psi boost, mostly 245+ cu in strokers, and doing it under 1000 feet elevation. Besides, why run a smaller turbo you have to lean on as hard as possible to meet your goal, instead of going a little bigger so you can keep the boost down, if you don't have a class rule forcing you to. If Patrick says you need at least a 74 turbo at your altitude, I'd listen to him.

[Yes, I know a couple tsm cars see some steet miles and are only 235 cu in, but think how few of those there are and how many guys have blown up trying to run mid 9's in tsm.]

I hear ya Carl, but I have yet to see anybody put a 74-76mm 3-bolt turbo on a 109 car (be it iron heads or alum heads) and run faster than the TSM type cars running the 70mm. That's not to say that it can't be done or hasn't, but I wonder if they would go any faster than the guys running the 70mm. Personally with the 3-bolt I would bet they would not! Matter of fact I have heard thru the grape vine that a few guys have tried the 76GTQ 3-bolt on a 109 and didn't run any faster than they did with the 70GTQ. Why run a bigger turbo and more conveter if it's not neccessary especially when streetability is also a concern? Just my opinion.

I can also tell you another stock cube iron headed 109 car down here (Orlando) has been 9.90's @137mph with a 74GTQ with a PTE SLIC so if you decide to go the route that Patrick originally suggested I don't think you would be disappointed either way. Here's a vid~

[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NXtGrxzMStg[/YOUTUBE]

 

[karolko]

Streetablity is definetely a major thing for you.

My goal for this car is to have something that will touch the nines, (i do not care if it is a 9.80 to 9.90 car, just as long as it is a 9 second car.

Mainly i want this thing to be a street demon, scaring the hell out of the cops (that kind of car) but i do not want to loose too much of the streetability of the thing.

the t66 was an awesome turbo with the 3200 stall and i would like to keep that converter in the car, (money for one and its streetability)

can the gtq70 dbb be matched up to a 3200 lock up converter?

 

[RUQWKNF]

Your altitude is the major factor you're dealing with.
I would suggest you contact Jason Cramer of RJC and talk to him. With him being up there where the air is thin, he knows what it takes to run 9's at altitude.

I mentioned the 74mm equipped turbo due to this factor. You need the extra airflow capabilities of the larger compressor wheel.

For the record, the PT70 GTQ journal bearing turbo with a PTE .85 A/R 3-bolt turbine housing on a 235 CI iron headed motor will need a 4000 stall to get it motivated properly. Anything less and you will have lag on the foot brake.

The dual bb version of this same turbo can get away with a 3600-3700 stall converter, possible a 3500. But you will have some lag with a 3200 stall, especially at altitude and with the .85 A/R housing. Also, I would not recommend putting the .63 A/R PTE housing on this turbo to try to help bandaid the spoolup, especially at high elevations. It will severely choke the turbo and motor.
Now, if you were a light weight 3000# car and only bracket raced in the 1/8th, the .63 PTE would be ok.

Me personally, with what you are doing and where, I would suggest a PT74 HPQ dual ball bearing turbo with a PTE .85 A/R housing and a 3800 stall converter. It should rip pretty good at around 26-27psi. Also should be plenty for high 9's at a 3000+ ft elevation track.
Again, contact Jason Cramer and ask him his thoughts.

Email:
Jason@RJCRacing.com
# 435-882-2839

Just my O2s worth.


Patrick

 

[karolko]

Hey Patrick, i spoke to Jason and he stated that a 70 could get me there, but it will be hard. i have no problem running a 74 or 76 (jason also recommended them) but it comes down to how it preforms on the street.

i think the next question would be, how would the 74 preform at 20lbs on the street with the right converter setup. how would it feel driving a car with a looser converter on the street feel? that is the most important question. i am not too concerned about mileage because i drive the thing like its stolen anyways.

please enlighten me

 

[norbs]

I would not use any 76gtq turbo if you want to drive it on the street unless you want to run a stall thats totally not streetable.