Yup another no start 87 t-go figure lol

GBGN1

stroked
Joined
May 26, 2001
Driving last night ,car was running great.Suddenly car had a a miss of some sort.died a couple of times.But would always fire up.Third time wasnt the charm and left me stranded.The car kinda popped and that was all,done

--Got the car home .Was thinken crank sensor right away.----NO pulse,NO spark.Engine light comes on ,fuel pressure comes up.cranks great it felt loose so I went and got a replacement sensor and set it up right...no dice.

Ive changed crank sensor,cam sensor and another coilpack I had laying around.NO change.. My multi meter is at work til tuesday so.shoot.Anyone have any similar expierences?:redface:
 
Yes thanks the ignition module was changed to another used one with same results.
changed chips,checked fuses all good

great holiday weekend:rolleyes:
 
You will have spark no matter what if crank and cam sensor have power and are functioning along with a good coil/module. Given you have good power and ground. It doesn't care if there is an ecm or not. Unplug the ecm and crank it if you dont get spark at 15* btdc it's in the ignition system..
 
Thanks dan got power to the module tried 2.got a new one on the way got to be something simple. Has to be the module or I'll have to start checking resistance in all the wires.
 
Haha im on my phone and just realized who originally posted this thread... lol brian you need some help ill be in gb in 2 weeks. I could stop by and take a look.

Dan
 
What does the Maf sensor have to do with injector pulse or spark ?:confused:

Missed the part about no spark or injector. A bad MAF does fit the sputter and stop symptoms.

With no spark or injector it's either the module or the crank sensor and you've changed the module.
 
I just installed a new crank sensor a used module i had laying around but that might have gone bad so I got a new coil and module coming from jstahl .Im sure thats the problem .Ive got power at the sensors.They should work so Im down to that.Damn pain in the but.thanks
 
Voltage at the sensor may not be all of the picture. I've seen the magnet fly out of them. They had voltage but no signal. Check for 10V on the signal output with the reluctor vane in the window
 
You will have spark no matter what if crank and cam sensor have power and are functioning along with a good coil/module. Given you have good power and ground. It doesn't care if there is an ecm or not. Unplug the ecm and crank it if you dont get spark at 15* btdc it's in the ignition system..

15*? should it be 10* per Buick specs?
 
I'm sure you have checked but my buddy had the same problem and left him stranded after restarting several times and driving several miles until it quit. He found his balancer was loose after he had it towed to his shop. Just a thought!

Rick
 
Otto your right, mine showed 13-15 at idle with no ECM over ride. Also saw a loose balancer twice... red loctite and 250ftlbs ftw!

Dan
 
UPDATE: Another TR is back on the road!:cool:

I just got my new module/coil from jstahl today so I had to stick it on,but waite
when I did damn thing still wouldnt run:frown:. Now everything I was seeing indicated the module.So wtf. So I ended up going through the diagnostic table that "williamsgn" came up with and it came up a second time with looking at cam sensor.I did change it to a new one that was laying around for years but was new.With my power probe ended up jumping the cam sensor harness and then a BIG Kabang!! New I was on to it then .Replaced cam sensor with the original cap and the damn thing started right up.So it was the control module after all.But this is a lesson for all never trust a 7-8 year old part thats been sitting on the shelf without testing it.Im a ase master tech and this car had me thinking for a bit ,but all is well.With the new coil /module thing runs much better than before.

BIG thanks to all that responded!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:biggrin:
Brian
 
Top