Your thoughts on this fuel pressure gauge

["Turbo-T"]

Stewart Warner 114218 - Stewart Warner Maximum Performance Series Analog Gauges - summitracing.com

Thinking of putting a fuel pressure gauge inside my car in the empty pillar pod opening. This one is priced $100 + lower than the Autometers.

Perhaps someone here has used this gauge? How good is the accuracy?

 

["Turbo-T"]

Also here's another one I'm looking at, made by Cyberdyne:

Cyberdyne A211E061Y - Cyberdyne Digital Gauges - summitracing.com

Again input is appreciated.

 

[413turbo]

i like the sw. what guages do you have in the cockpit now? ex. boost, oil, temp, trans temp.

 

[Clark6]

I have the cyberdyne one. I really like mine.

 

["Turbo-T"]

i like the sw. what guages do you have in the cockpit now? ex. boost, oil, temp, trans temp.

I have a boost, an oil pres. and a water temp, all made by VDO. All of them the analog style.

 

[TurboDave]

Stewart Warner 114218 - Stewart Warner Maximum Performance Series Analog Gauges - summitracing.com

Thinking of putting a fuel pressure gauge inside my car in the empty pillar pod opening. This one is priced $100 + lower than the Autometers.

Perhaps someone here has used this gauge? How good is the accuracy?

This one sucks! Look at the incredibly small needle swing area, can't be more than 40°. Your entire needle movement is going to be in a very small area of the center of the gauge, and it's only graduated every 5#'s.
And look how close together those 5# graduations are. Hell, I'd rather guess than use that thing.
Very bad choice IMHO.

 

["Turbo-T"]

I have the cyberdyne one. I really like mine.

How accurate would you say it is?

 

[bmackinnon]

Just my opinion, but I've heard many people hating the cyberdynes... work fine for a while, then get flaky... plus, I personally hate the look. If you have all VDO's (like me), why not just put a mech. VDO on the hood (like me)? I think you'd like it, affordable, it's easy to see, looks cool with the braided line and pretty fittings, and everyone always gives you a strange, clueless look when they ask if that's a tach on the hood and you say 'no, fuel pressure' and walk away..... put a egt in the pod.... (people won't know what to say about that one either! :biggrin: )

EDIT- agree w/ Turbo Dave... that SW sucks.... small sweep = no resolution = not accurate (to the eye).

 

[Fuelie600]

You will need an isolator to use a FP gauge inside the car.

 

[Clark6]

at the time i had my mechanical sat to 41 psi , imediately put the cyberdyne on it registered the exact same thing. as far as not being accurate over time i dont know i havent checked it or took it off lately that was about a yr and a half ago i dont know why others are having the problems. when i find another mechanical i'll check it to see. I dont see why it would be inaccurate, the fuel level sender on most of all the automobiles use the same principal. full----empty works on a voltage signal to the front front of the car, the same principal so are they accurate??? $69.00. Get what the others suggested you to get , im fine with what i have.

 

[Turbo F-bird]

I have the Cyberdyne on my car and right now I don't know what to tell you about it.
I have an Autometer at the rail and it always reads the same hot or cold but the Cyberdyne will read 40 psi when the engine is cold then read 35 when it's hot. It'll also change a lb or two depending if you're in Park or Drive. I can chalk up a little change from engine vacuum being a little higher or lower as the engine warms up (my car has a boost only gauge - no vacuum so I can't say for sure) and maybe a little from Park to Drive but to lose 5 lbs without touching the FPR is a little much in my opinion. It's also less than 2 months old and the sending unit croaked already. I called Cyberdyne and after they asked me to ground the gauge to the block (they said they can be "fussy" if you don't go to the block) and try it again they're now mailing me a new unit.
Years ago I had a VDO electric fuel pressure gauge Typhoon I owned in a it worked great but I don't think they sell it anymore. If you're into digital gauges (when you're racing it's a helluva lot easier to see what's going on with numbers spelled out rather than trying to watch a bunch of needles!) You could see if Dakota Digital has one. I have a Dakota Digital boost gauge in my Sunbird and it's always worked perfectly. Their stuff is pricey though. Hope that helps you.

 

[Roger]

I've had Cyberdyne over 10 years, I like it. It matches my Cyberdyne digital dash.

 

[wbrophy]

The SW stuff I have used in the past has always been top shelf.

 

[at7we2]

You will need an isolator to use a FP gauge inside the car.

both of the gauges he posted links to are electric, not mechanical.

FWIW, I've always heard electric FP gauges are not as accurate or reliable as mechanical gauges. Not sure if that's still true -assuming it is, best option would be a full-sweep mechanical gauge with an isolator as Fuelie600 mentioned. I used ot run this setup on my carburated SBC cars, but I've never installed it on a Buick.

HTH

 

[Rodney87GN]

This one sucks! Look at the incredibly small needle swing area, can't be more than 40°. Your entire needle movement is going to be in a very small area of the center of the gauge, and it's only graduated every 5#'s.
And look how close together those 5# graduations are. Hell, I'd rather guess than use that thing.
Very bad choice IMHO.

I agree with Turbodave...FWIW I use this-
Auto Meter 2663 - Auto Meter Z-Series Analog Gauges - summitracing.com

I like it alot...it's accurate, full sweep, and electric so you can easily mount it inside the car.

 

["Turbo-T"]

both of the gauges he posted links to are electric, not mechanical.

FWIW, I've always heard electric FP gauges are not as accurate or reliable as mechanical gauges.

Actually I've heard just the opposite. I've heard on a mechanial FP gauge the heat from the underhood temps causes the fuel pres. in the line to change resulting in an inacccurate reading. I have heard thiss isn't so much thhe case with an electrical FP gauge.

Just my opinion, but I've heard many people hating the cyberdynes... work fine for a while, then get flaky... plus, I personally hate the look. If you have all VDO's (like me), why not just put a mech. VDO on the hood?

Because IMO unless you're building a prostreet rig, it looks tacky and takes away from the stealth look, plus I don't want to drill holes in my hood. I'd rather just have it inside the car on the pillar. :smile:

 

[Fuelie600]

both of the gauges he posted links to are electric, not mechanical.

FWIW, I've always heard electric FP gauges are not as accurate or reliable as mechanical gauges. Not sure if that's still true -assuming it is, best option would be a full-sweep mechanical gauge with an isolator as Fuelie600 mentioned. I used ot run this setup on my carburated SBC cars, but I've never installed it on a Buick.

HTH

My bad! I never bothered to pull the links.:biggrin:

I prefer mechanical gauges over elelctric, so I assumed he was talking mechanical.

 

[Just a Six??]

I agree with Turbodave...FWIW I use this-
Auto Meter 2663 - Auto Meter Z-Series Analog Gauges - summitracing.com

I like it alot...it's accurate, full sweep, and electric so you can easily mount it inside the car.

I have all Z Series & will be getting that next. Can it be attached to the end of the fuel rail like my mechanical I hang on the windshield? If not, how or where do they get their feed from? Is the hookup bulky compared to the regular windshield installation? Simple install? Just come thru the firewall with the wire? I have never used an electric guage in my life???
Thanks!!

 

[Rodney87GN]

I have all Z Series & will be getting that next. Can it be attached to the end of the fuel rail like my mechanical I hang on the windshield? If not, how or where do they get their feed from? Is the hookup bulky compared to the regular windshield installation? Simple install? Just come thru the firewall with the wire? I have never used an electric guage in my life???
Thanks!!

It comes with a 3 wire sender that goes on the end of the fuel rail. I used (I think) a 1/8" NPT to -4 AN female adapter and 90 deg fitting to attach to the rail. You don't really need the 90 deg fitting but I didn't want the sender to stick straight out...just a personal preference. Then run the wires through the firewall and connect...pretty easy deal.

 

[Just a Six??]

Excellent!! Thanks!