Wiring up the 3bar MAP sensor under the hood. Does the ground for the MAP sensor have to be grounded from the TPS or can I ground It off the fender? The instructions do not specify but the sticky post about 3 bar with digital dash states to run ground from TPS....just wanna be sure.
Wrapping up my Alky and gauges install.....one question
- Thread starter pgoffner
- Start date
All Alky wiring is undone. Car still will not start, only cranks and backfires....
How would I know if the cam sensor is bad? I had the car towed home and I'm sitting here trying to figure out what happened.
Once the car sits for a while the car will start and idle. After about a minute the o2's will drop, idle will start to die off and the car starts smelling very rich then the car backfires and dies again. After it dies, no start just turns over and lots of backfiring....
Your problem has nothing to do with the alky system.
Cam Sensor...There is a phillips screw that holds the reluctor wheel. I would take the screw off and lift the reluctor. Underneath it is a little tab that sets it into place. It is common for the tab to break and throw off all timing.
Make sure that tab is there.
Also.. if you messed with the chip, make sure the chip is properly seated in the ecm.
Also try reseting the ecm by unplugging the connector by the battery and replugging it in.
If you messed with the ecm, make sure both plugs are seated down into their sockets.
reply back..
Cam Sensor...There is a phillips screw that holds the reluctor wheel. I would take the screw off and lift the reluctor. Underneath it is a little tab that sets it into place. It is common for the tab to break and throw off all timing.
Make sure that tab is there.
Also.. if you messed with the chip, make sure the chip is properly seated in the ecm.
Also try reseting the ecm by unplugging the connector by the battery and replugging it in.
If you messed with the ecm, make sure both plugs are seated down into their sockets.
reply back..
Thanks for the reply Razor. Yes I understand this isnt an issue with your product. My original posts were done from my Iphone when I was stranded so it was easier to just reply to an existing post versus trying to make a new one while my phone battery was dying. Please feel free to move the thread if you think it should be in another section but I am hopelessly lost with this issue
Phil, no worries.
I actually remembered seeing this issue. Its not a cam sensor issue. Its typically a chip issue or ignition module going bad.
Take the chip out of the ecm and make sure there is no corrossion on the pins. Also make sure there is no corrossion on the plugs where the cables plug into the ecm. I would take the ecm out of the car by unplugging both connectors and start inspecting everything.
Hope this helps
I actually remembered seeing this issue. Its not a cam sensor issue. Its typically a chip issue or ignition module going bad.
Take the chip out of the ecm and make sure there is no corrossion on the pins. Also make sure there is no corrossion on the plugs where the cables plug into the ecm. I would take the ecm out of the car by unplugging both connectors and start inspecting everything.
Hope this helps
When I get home, I'll pull the chip and check the connections. I'll also check the ECM plugs for issues. The way the car spits and backfires sounds consistent with what you are saying about the ignition module. I checked the coil packs last nite and the resistence on them were in range according to GNTYPE.ORG
Should I put the stock chip back it to see if it changes anything? Currently theres an TT street chip in it.
Checked the MAF by unplugging it and it didnt change anything other than setting a MAF low voltage code or something like that. I'll check unplugging the cam sensor with the engine running as well. Thanks Razor.....keep the ideas coming:smile:
Ok, the injectors are 42.5's so I wont put the stock chip back in it.
ALVAROG1983
EVIL GN
- Joined
- Mar 27, 2007
Ground
YUP THAT IS WAY MINE IS SET UP AND PHIL LET US KNOW WHAT IT WAS WHEN YOU FIGURE IT ALL OUT.
YUP THAT IS WAY MINE IS SET UP AND PHIL LET US KNOW WHAT IT WAS WHEN YOU FIGURE IT ALL OUT.
If the chip and ecm doesnt fix it.. then more than likely its the ignition module. Careful on the ignition module as aftermarket ones(Cardone,Wells,Etc) are known to exhibit issues. AC Delco's are the only ones that for sure work.
There are three parts I keep on the shelf for a Buick.
1) MAF stocker with BW sticker
2) Coil pack ignition module
3) Spare ECM + chip
If the three above parts are swapped and the car still has issues.. your in trouble
There are three parts I keep on the shelf for a Buick.
1) MAF stocker with BW sticker
2) Coil pack ignition module
3) Spare ECM + chip
If the three above parts are swapped and the car still has issues.. your in trouble
My car did the exact same thing when test driving after alky install. It ended up being the cam sensor tab broke. I would take a look. When I was testing I just looked at the cam sensor and it looked fine. Thank god my son was with me and he reached down an touched the wheel and found it was spinning free.
If the chip and ecm doesnt fix it.. then more than likely its the ignition module. Careful on the ignition module as aftermarket ones(Cardone,Wells,Etc) are known to exhibit issues. AC Delco's are the only ones that for sure work.
There are three parts I keep on the shelf for a Buick.
1) MAF stocker with BW sticker
2) Coil pack ignition module
3) Spare ECM + chip
If the three above parts are swapped and the car still has issues.. your in trouble
Ok so when I got home I
-Unplugged the battery
-Pull the coil packs off and inspected the connections, everything
seemed fine.Put them back and tightened them down.
-Loosened the igniton control module harness and unplugged it.
Checked the connnections and everythign looked fine. Plugged it back
in and tightened it up.
-Unplugged the ECM plugs and removed the chip. Everything looked fine
so I plugged then back up securely. I did notice that the ECM had
been replaced with a remanufactured Delco unit.
Hooked the battery back up and started the car...idles fine now. No
codes, no stumble, no backfire. I let the car warm up to just below
180 degrees but it wouldnt get any warmer. Shut it down, started up
again...no codes no issues. Did this about 5 times letting the car
idle for 5-10 minutes each time. I'm still not convinced its fixed
though, I'm afraid to drive it in order to find out. I'm not in the
mood to get stuck today.
-Phil
