- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
I just don't buy something internal being the problem.
Did you pull the starter?
Did you pull the starter?
Won't turn over.
- Thread starter DWB47
- Start date
No, I didn't pull the starter, I did however change the stater when this first started and it does the same thing with both. With the inspection cover off the starter dosen't appear to be jamed with the flywheel. I'll pull the starter and the spark plugs tomorrow and see what happens. I also have a hard time believing that this is an internal problem. Keep in mind the car ran fine and sounded good up until I shut it down. I wonder if something in the TC could be locked up?
jasjamz
THS Racer
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2004
Is there enough room in a TR to pull the trans without the converter? I bet the converter has something to do with it. Do you have a lockup converter? I cant see it being an internal engine problem either. Being able to isolate the motor from the trans would be a great help. May be time to get the engine hoist out.
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
Around the converter area, it would have to be the converter snout frozen in the ft pump bushing.
If: A. the trans input shaft is snapped, or B. Stator support splines are stripped. C. The pump gear is broken.
A, B, C, No drive, engine runs.
If: A. the trans input shaft is snapped, or B. Stator support splines are stripped. C. The pump gear is broken.
A, B, C, No drive, engine runs.
So your saying if there was a problem with the converter or trans the engine would still turn over?
I think I'm going to go ahead and pull the motor. At this point I have all the accesories off, it wouldn't take long to do it, and it could use a good cleaning. Besides I don't think I can unhook the trans without either pulling the motor or the trans since i can't rotate it to unbolt the converter.
I pulled the valve covers. I didn't expect to find anything but I figured what the heck. Everything looked good under the covers. So what size bolts do I need to bolt the block to the engine stand? Also, since I can't unbolt the torque converter, should I try to pull the engine and trans together, or should I try to slide the engine forward so that the converter will pull out of the trans?
twodafloor
Twodafloor
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2007
Mmmm
Maybe you should get some kind of device to look inside the combustion chamber- I think you have something jammed between the head and piston.
Maybe you should get some kind of device to look inside the combustion chamber- I think you have something jammed between the head and piston.
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
"So what size bolts do I need to bolt the block to the engine stand? Also, since I can't unbolt the torque converter, should I try to pull the engine and trans together, or should I try to slide the engine forward so that the converter will pull out of the trans?"
In order to minimize the chances of messing up the converter snout, & flexplate, I'd pull it all in 1 piece.
[I always do that, even if I have no problems getting to the verter bolts.]
AIRC, the bolts are 3/8-16.
In order to minimize the chances of messing up the converter snout, & flexplate, I'd pull it all in 1 piece.
[I always do that, even if I have no problems getting to the verter bolts.]
AIRC, the bolts are 3/8-16.
I pulled the motor over the weekend, and opened it up tonight. Pulled the oil pan first. I didn't see anything obvious that would lock up the motor.Noticed a few very small metal shavings in the pan. I pulled the main caps one by one. The bearings looked good, well at lest the bottom half, except for one that a had a very small groove and and a thin piece of metal shaving on the side. The second bearing from the front, which I believe is the the trust bearing, had to small gouges on the vertical edge at the 10 o'clock and 2 positions. I reinstalled the main caps and finger tightened the bolts. Even with the mains loose the motor still won't rotate. Pulled the heads, the cylinders and pistons looked good, at least what I could see with the pistons still in. Any suggestions as to what I should be looking for? I guess the next step would be to pull the crank and piston/rod assemblies.
How do the piston bores look- you mighta siezed a piston, should be pretty obvious- now is a good time to do a freshing up on the motor- If the bores are ok and the block is not warped, go to PAW and buy a re-ring kit with bearings, a gasket set and timing set, and order a set of cometic head gaskets from T/A. Hone the cyls just enough to get a 60* crosshatch. Pull a couple of valves and check the side play- if its good, lap 'em in by hand and reassemble.( Maybe port match ? ) This is weird, but you'll find something simple that caused it. You should be able to refresh for about $300 plus your time, barring any weirdness
Hang in there!!:biggrin:
Robert
Hang in there!!:biggrin:
Robert
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
Take a look..
1. Now that the engine/trans is out, did you find anything w/ the converter and the trans ft pump?
2. Check sideplay on the rods. Any of them discolored, or have excess play, or are tite? Any rod look like it's not in the "same place" on the throw, as the others? [Looking for a spun brg shell that's jacked up over the other 1/2].
3. U can't check the wrist pins w/ the pistons in, but that may also be a possibility. A locked up wrist pin, and you won't turn the engine w/ a 4' bar! BTDT, w/a BBC. [I had to cut the rod off w/ a plasma cutter, in order to disassemble the engine.]
Keep looking. It'll show itself eventually!
1. Now that the engine/trans is out, did you find anything w/ the converter and the trans ft pump?
2. Check sideplay on the rods. Any of them discolored, or have excess play, or are tite? Any rod
3. U can't check the wrist pins w/ the pistons in, but that may also be a possibility. A locked up wrist pin, and you won't turn the engine w/ a 4' bar! BTDT, w/a BBC. [I had to cut the rod off w/ a plasma cutter, in order to disassemble the engine.]
Keep looking. It'll show itself eventually!
Nothing seems out off place or realy obvious. I now have all the main caps off, and the #1 piston and rod out, still won't turn. I'm going to have to get creative to get the rest of the pistons out, where they are positioned it's gonna be hard to get to the rod bolts.
I found it! I'm a little embarassed that I didn't see this the first time I pulled the main caps. The #3 spun slightly. Pulled the cap popped the bearing half off the crank, and now the motor turns freely. Thanks to all who have helped. I guess the next step is to find a machine shop and find out how bad the crank is.
