Wilwood from brake kit
- Thread starter TURBOV6
- Start date
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2001
I've had this kit on my car for five years now. I have 10,000 miles at least on it, and I've even autocrossed the car.
Don't get the cross-drilled rotor option. The holes are just places for cracks to form.
Throw the Q-compound pads that are included in the kit in the garbage and get a set of Hawk HPS pads. The Q compound overheats after two or three hard stops and you get dangerous amounts of fade. You can get the Hawk pads for the Dynalite caliper from Tire Rack
If you aren't a machinist, get a machine shop to do the spindle modifications for you. It won't cost much, and having it done right can mean the difference between a lifetime of use on these brakes or the spindle failing in some way because you mistapped the holes or overheated the metal cutting off the OE caliper mount ears.
Be sure to re-check your bearings several times after the initial install. Mine had to be tightened three times as they wore in.
You will have to buy new lug nuts for the front. The studs that come with the Wilwood kit are a finer thread than the OE studs.
Don't get the cross-drilled rotor option. The holes are just places for cracks to form.
Throw the Q-compound pads that are included in the kit in the garbage and get a set of Hawk HPS pads. The Q compound overheats after two or three hard stops and you get dangerous amounts of fade. You can get the Hawk pads for the Dynalite caliper from Tire Rack
If you aren't a machinist, get a machine shop to do the spindle modifications for you. It won't cost much, and having it done right can mean the difference between a lifetime of use on these brakes or the spindle failing in some way because you mistapped the holes or overheated the metal cutting off the OE caliper mount ears.
Be sure to re-check your bearings several times after the initial install. Mine had to be tightened three times as they wore in.
You will have to buy new lug nuts for the front. The studs that come with the Wilwood kit are a finer thread than the OE studs.
Scott Atk
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Good info on the pads. I've suffered through the supplied pads, but now that they're worn out, I will change to EBS or Hawk's.
On the subject of the supplied studs. The ones they supplied are not extended length so I had to get a 3" set of studs from Jegs. I also chose to loc-tite the hub to rotor bolts vs. safety wiring and haven't had any problems after two years.
On the subject of the supplied studs. The ones they supplied are not extended length so I had to get a 3" set of studs from Jegs. I also chose to loc-tite the hub to rotor bolts vs. safety wiring and haven't had any problems after two years.
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2001
Those bolts need to be safety-wired per the instructions. Loc-Tite releases when heated, and with these cars mostly north of 3500 pounds, the rotors only 10.75", a few hard stops can put enough heat into the system to weaken Loc-Tite, possibly allowing those bolts to start working loose.
If you haven't been regularly checking those bolts with a torque wrench, you won't know about a problem until they back out and fail, and the hub assembly comes apart on you.
That would be bad.
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2001
Yeah, Tire Rack's web site really sucks when you stray outside of a normal Make/Model/Year. I had to call.
The Hawk HPS is HB100F.480
The Hawk HP Plus (more aggressive pad, but more dust and noisy) is HB100N.480
Hawk's website allows you to look up brake pad part numbers by caliper:
Hawk Performance Brake Pads: Race Proven, Street Legal
Tire Rack can also look up brake pads by caliper.
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