Wideband Noob!

[boosted3]

Im just looking for a little insight into this Innovate LC-1 Wideband. It will be here tomorrow and I have been doing some reading into the install. The way it looks, I am going to have the bung welded in at the end of the downpipe right before the slip joint to my dump. Is there anything I need to keep any eye out for with the install or is it plug and play? When i fire the car up and run it for the first time what should i be looking for?
I have been reading a lot about the TT 6.0 chip and that it works with the powerlogger and wideband and makes automatic corrections. This sounds like something I would definitely like as a safety net! I am just trying to get some people opinions that might be running this setup and whether or not its worth the money. Currently I have a TT 5.6 alky chip with 60# motrons and a scanmaster. I just bought a new Billet Wheel 6262. Is it worth it to spend the $400 and install the Powerlogger and new chip or should i stick with what i have?
thanks!

 

[slimtastic]

the wideband is fine but id keep it away from any slip joints that arnt airtight and also an exhaust dump when opened will have enough "reversion" to make the wideband readings overly lean......weld the o2 bung about a foot or so out from the turbo outlet on your downpipe

 

[just plain john]

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[FLAT BOOSTED]

the wideband is fine but id keep it away from any slip joints that arnt airtight and also an exhaust dump when opened will have enough "reversion" to make the wideband readings overly lean......weld the o2 bung about a foot or so out from the turbo outlet on your downpipe

From what I heard your better off going as far down the dp as possible without getting the reversion from the dump. The closer to the turbo, I hear, is not better. its hotter and doesnt give as accurate a reading. Thats what I heard. I have mine down about 8"-10" from the dump. It seems very accurate here, its always fluctuating but trying to "lock" onto that to 14.7 ratio, and does exactly that. when cruising it hovers around 14.3-14.9 but mostly 14.7, which is what its "optimal" value should be(I think). Thats how I know its reading accurate where I have it. Im still learning here also so if im off here at all, please lmk so I get it right and am not giving bad advice. Thanks

 

[berserker6]

Sorry for the slight hijack. But can you have the auto correction (not sure if that's the name) with a wideband and the TT 6.0 chip and not have a powerlogger? Or is the powerlogger a necessity for programming?

 

[aminga]

Sorry for the slight hijack. But can you have the auto correction (not sure if that's the name) with a wideband and the TT 6.0 chip and not have a powerlogger? Or is the powerlogger a necessity for programming?

No.

In simplest terms the some of the powerloggers memory where the analog inputs are written to are adressable by the ECM

 

[berserker6]

No.

In simplest terms the some of the powerloggers memory where the analog inputs are written to are adressable by the ECM

Thanks for the response. Without a powerlogger how do you set your desired AF? A scanmaster?

 

[jasjamz]

Thanks for the response. Without a powerlogger how do you set your desired AF? A scanmaster?

You can't use that function of the chip without a Powerlogger. You can use it like a regular TT chip if you only have a scanmaster.

Read about it here.... http://www.turbotweak.com/turbotweak60docs.pdf

 

[jasjamz]

Im just looking for a little insight into this Innovate LC-1 Wideband. It will be here tomorrow and I have been doing some reading into the install. The way it looks, I am going to have the bung welded in at the end of the downpipe right before the slip joint to my dump. Is there anything I need to keep any eye out for with the install or is it plug and play? When i fire the car up and run it for the first time what should i be looking for?
I have been reading a lot about the TT 6.0 chip and that it works with the powerlogger and wideband and makes automatic corrections. This sounds like something I would definitely like as a safety net! I am just trying to get some people opinions that might be running this setup and whether or not its worth the money. Currently I have a TT 5.6 alky chip with 60# motrons and a scanmaster. I just bought a new Billet Wheel 6262. Is it worth it to spend the $400 and install the Powerlogger and new chip or should i stick with what i have?
thanks!

I have used that set up and is really nice to have! You can use what you have, but the Powerlogger is really a useful tool when you're trying to tune the car. The 6.0 chip is nice and you can disable the WB tracking in different areas.This is cool so you are not completely dependent on the WB to make all the corrections for you. I use the WB tracking as a guide to show me where to add and trim fuel. After I get it so close that the WB is not adding or pulling much at all I turn off the WB tracking function in that area. If you have not read the instructions you should since it will give you the best infomation before you buy the chip.
http://www.turbotweak.com/turbotweak60docs.pdf

 

[boosted3]

Thanks for all the great info guys! The Wideband came in the mail today and definitely looks like theres a lot of wiring in my future! I guess im going to try to install the sensor halfway between the turbo and the end of the downpipe. I am taking it to get welded in tomorrow morning so if anyone has any final input on where the sensor should go Lemme Have it! Ill let everyone know how the install goes and post some pictures up once I get my new gauge package installed. Hopefully there ill be a big tax return in my near future so i can order up a Powerlogger and the new chip. Im starting to get to the horsepower levels where the best tuning tools possible will help me keep my car together so im taking all the precautions now!
Thanks again!

 

[just plain john]

Boosted3, please post up as the install progresses. I'd like to learn as much as I can about this, so take lots of pics if you would.

 

[imjoesnuffy]

Dont forget....

Haven't seen it mentioned yet, so... You want the bung welded in anywhere from 10 to 2 o clock on the pipe. In other words the WB sensor should be somewhere on top and not the bottom of the pipe.

 

[slimtastic]

From what I heard your better off going as far down the dp as possible without getting the reversion from the dump. The closer to the turbo, I hear, is not better. its hotter and doesnt give as accurate a reading. Thats what I heard. I have mine down about 8"-10" from the dump. It seems very accurate here, its always fluctuating but trying to "lock" onto that to 14.7 ratio, and does exactly that. when cruising it hovers around 14.3-14.9 but mostly 14.7, which is what its "optimal" value should be(I think). Thats how I know its reading accurate where I have it. Im still learning here also so if im off here at all, please lmk so I get it right and am not giving bad advice. Thanks

if the sensor is of cheap quality then higher ammounts of heat will cause it to flatline at wot. the further down the exhaust you put the sensor, gennerally the less accurate. exhaust going throught the turbie will drop around 600 degrees in the process so putting it about a foot after the turbine in a 12-00 position has worked without flaw for the numerous cars ive installed them in....

and in genneral, reversion in a heavy cammed car will yeld dirty o2 readings up from a exhaust leak about 15-20 inches.. on a turbo regal with a terry houstion and a y style dump, that doesnt leave much room under the car for the wideband placement

 

[slimtastic]

oh also the further you put the sensor away from the heat source, the more likley it will foul out from water in the exhaust ( condensation from hot exhaust inside a cooler exhaust tube). the more time the pipe takes to warm up, the more likley it will foul out..


go a foot or so out from the turbine

 

[boosted3]

Well, today I unpackaged the Wideband and checked everything out. I mocked up the turbo and downpipe and marked where I am going to install the sensor. After a bunch of beating my brain I decided to install it from the top as far down as I could without interfering with anything. The sensor should be at around the 1 o clock position and come up right behind the wiring harness thats attached to the heater box. this will give me a safe route for the wiring so I dont have to worry about it getting too close to the headers or downpipe and melting. That was my main concern about putting the sensor under the car and in turn influenced my decision on where to mount it. The shop that is welding in the bung was busy today so I wont be picking up my downpipe until tomorrow. My gauge pods will be here from GBody today so hopefully this weekend I can start wiring all my gauges up and get it installed. I am going to detail my whole gauge install in this thread as well just for the sake of having my experience with all the parts on here for others to see.
I bought Autometer Ultra Lite II gauges. I have a 3 pack which includes Oil Pressure, water temp, and volts which will be installed in the new 3 gauge pod offered by GBody that mounts next to the gauge surround and then bought the autometer ultra lite II 0-35 psi boost gauge and the Innovate LC-1 wideband with red gauge which will go in the dual gauge A-pillar pod that replaces the stock pillar also sold by GBody. I got the pods pre-painted for a little extra so I didnt have to try to get the overspray off my car after i painted them. I am also installing a new Billet Wheel Journal Bearing 6262, some 60# Motrons, a TT chip, and a Hooker 2 1/2" exhaust.
Plenty of pictures to come!

 

[boosted3]

The new gauges....they wired the 3 pack together with a set of batteries so you can see the lighting. I think they look great! Cant wait to see what they look like installed!

 

[84BuickGNYorkPA]

You may end up moving it to 3-4" from the end of the downpipe, at least I did when I installed mine where yours is going. The spark plug wires/coil pack, mess your readings up, went through 2 or 3 LC-1 units at that location. Oh it will work when you hook it up for a little while, put over time mine always died/fried. Don't worry to much about the 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock position, mine is at about 9 o'clock pointing toward the center of the car, mounted the LC-1 box at the brake lines and bottom of firewall driver's side, ran the wire up the firewall and through where all the other gazillion wires, hoses run through to under the dash. Been this way for 2 yrs and still working, also nice to have it close to the electric cut-out for calibration, open the cut out and in about 1-2 min your ready to calibrate the 02 sensor, with out it being in that location, you have to calibrate on a cold motor....

Chuck

 

[boosted3]

Well that's great news!

You may end up moving it to 3-4" from the end of the downpipe, at least I did when I installed mine where yours is going. The spark plug wires/coil pack, mess your readings up, went through 2 or 3 LC-1 units at that location. Oh it will work when you hook it up for a little while, put over time mine always died/fried. Don't worry to much about the 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock position, mine is at about 9 o'clock pointing toward the center of the car, mounted the LC-1 box at the brake lines and bottom of firewall driver's side, ran the wire up the firewall and through where all the other gazillion wires, hoses run through to under the dash. Been this way for 2 yrs and still working, also nice to have it close to the electric cut-out for calibration, open the cut out and in about 1-2 min your ready to calibrate the 02 sensor, with out it being in that location, you have to calibrate on a cold motor....

Chuck

 

[boosted3]

Well I unpackaged my gauge pods today and picked up my downpipe with the bung welded in. Hopefully I will be able to start my install tomorrow and add some new pics of the progress being made.
Id like a little insight into 84BuickGNYorkPA's comment regarding the problem with interference from the plug wires and coil pack. Is this a common problem? Should I invest in some wrap for the wiring to the sensor to shield it from electrical interference? Im stuck with the bung location for now and would like to take any precaution necessary to keep from burning up the unit.
Thanks
Brian

 

[87_we4]

I've never had good luck mounting the o2 that close to the turbo