My car passes the NC tailpipe test every year, because I put in the stock chip, and turn down the fuel pressure. My street chip is a Thrasher, with the open loop idle, don't think it would pass. But it seems to me that a performance street chip SHOULD pass emissions testing. Why can't I have a chip for pump gas that is like the stock chip for idle, and for low rpm operations like the emissions test, but increases boost and fuel at WOT? Emissions tests don't involve WOT, so that shouldn't be a problem. Car has a high flow cat, which gets me past the testing and doesn't seem too restrictive on the street.
Why is emissions chip needed?
- Thread starter Ormand
- Start date
Well as long as you have minor modifications to your engine, you do not need an Emissions chip. I sell these chips to people who either have a car that for whatever reason always seem to "just miss" on the E-test OR they have made significant modifications to their engine - Specifically, large fuel injectors.
Just try passing an emissions test with 50pph injectors and your stock chip.
Just try passing an emissions test with 50pph injectors and your stock chip.
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2001
I know a lot of people like open loop idle chips. They provide really smooth idle, but my engine idles just fine with a closed loop chip. IAC is set to 18 and TPS is set to 0.42v. But, open loop chips just don't work well for emissions test. So, you turn to Scott231 or Eric At Turbotweak to build a chip to pass emissions. I think TurboDave burns his own chips, so he will also pass with 50pph injectors. I wish I could burn my own chips, but with the knowledge base that this board posseses, I'm happy with purchasing chips from those who have more experience than me. Consequently, I have used a Reds93 and a Testa 91 for 42.5 injectors and have not had a problem with either chip passing. In fact, since 1995 my car has not failed an emissions test. I too tried a Thrasher chip and liked the idle, performance and theft-deterrent. But I run a cat on my car all the time and I didn't want to melt my cat down while it idled in open loop. Maybe I set the chip up wrong (I did follow the instructions), but I didn't like the rotten eggs smell when the engine was warmed at idle. But that is just me. We all make sacrifices in the name of performance, it's just a matter of the degree of sacrifices we choose to make.
Relatively fresh tune, good cat, closed loop, and 180dF Thermostat, and one should pass emissions.
Unless your running injectors so large that the idle speed has to be bumped up because of PW issues.
But, there are some places, like Chicago, where the operators seem to not know how to drive, or deliberately misdrive cars to get them to fail. In some tests, just a rich or lean spike can cause a fail.
Unless your running injectors so large that the idle speed has to be bumped up because of PW issues.
But, there are some places, like Chicago, where the operators seem to not know how to drive, or deliberately misdrive cars to get them to fail. In some tests, just a rich or lean spike can cause a fail.
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2001
Sorry, I always forget to acknowledge Bruce, because he also burns his own chips and is very good. He has tried to convince many of us to buy the chip burning equipment and do our own chips. I think I'm just lazy
.In a nutshell, the purpose and intent of the fueling controls of the stock ECM is to run the motor at stochiometric air:fuel ratios. If the ECM is succesful, you will pass emissions. (I know of about 22,000 Turbo Regals that passed, or would have passed, in 1987.)
So even a slightly modified TR with the appropriate FI constant in the chip will pass emissions without a special emissions chip. When people e-mail at Scott231@Juno.com with a request for an emissions chip, I send them a "form letter" that lists something like 10 steps to follow to help pass emissions. If that doesn't work - then you should try one of the "aftermarket" emissions chips.
So even a slightly modified TR with the appropriate FI constant in the chip will pass emissions without a special emissions chip. When people e-mail at Scott231@Juno.com with a request for an emissions chip, I send them a "form letter" that lists something like 10 steps to follow to help pass emissions. If that doesn't work - then you should try one of the "aftermarket" emissions chips.
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2001
Scott,
If you think it will help our members, you may post your 10 step check list in my Smog Check Sticky. Sorry to all for getting off topic.
If you think it will help our members, you may post your 10 step check list in my Smog Check Sticky. Sorry to all for getting off topic.
Interesting. Gofstbuick, I've run a thrasher for a long time, and never noticed any bad smells from the cat. I ran one with the stock cat, and it didn't melt, it "accidentally" lost the honeycomb. But the little pieces showed no signs of melting. Just didn't improve performance any to run without it, so I use one all the time now. No mention of Casper's chips on this board, are his "old tech" or up to date? I like the thumbwheel, with the valet setting, and the anti-theft, as well as "stock" for emissions tests.
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2001
If you didn't smell the rotten eggs smell at idle, then it is quite possible that your cat is dead. Especially with an open loop chip. When using an open loop chip all the time, it puts extra fuel in the cat. This causes the cat to work overtime to process the additional HC and CO. Eventually burning it up or causing an internal melt down. Also, since the honeycomb inside the cat is gone, the cat has lost its ability to store and release O2 for the oxidation process, thereby rendering the cat dead.
Gofst, I said the honeycomb in the ORIGINAL cat went away. (It had some help, didn't leave without a fight) The replacement cat is doing just fine, thank you. It passed the NC emissions test in April. And the original cat passed, too, the last time it had a chance. Without a sign of melting.
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