Why are old cars so cold natured?

[RUQWKNF27]

I just bought a old car "69 Camaro" and man this thing takes a while to get warmed up and going! The previous owner told me there is no t-stat in there cause the new one he put in there after the aluminum radiator swap keep fluctuating too much so he just left it out! I am not sure of the problems from not running one but I would prefer to have one. Car runs good till you come to a stop and goes dead but after running for a while it's fine. I need to do a good tune up on the car since it has not been drove alot from previous owner mostly sit in his garage. Not sure on these old cars what all a tune up would consist of since there not much there . I know for sure I am putting new plugs in it change the oil and a fuel filter. I like it very basic unlike the TR.

 

[BlackMetal]

No t-stat = over cooling.

 

[salvageV6]

After you get the stat. problem fixed, look into whatever they had for a carb. choke on there.

Stock ones were usually heat driven off the manifold and never worked really well, at least on the Buicks and Olds. in those years.

If it's an aftermarket carb. and manifold they probably used the gas pedal for a choke assembly.

Look at those 2 issues for warmup drivability.

 

[RUQWKNF27]

I kinda figured that tomorrow I am gonna try to pop say maybe a 170-180 in there! Also should you pump the pedal several times before start up to set the choke etc.. I feel like a complete idiot although thisis my first carbed car! I am so oblivious to mechanical things. Heres a pic! Carb is a 750 dual feed vacumn secondary whatever that means! Manifold is a Edelbrock air gap.

 

[ChavoLC2]

Wow a beautiful 69

That is a Greeeeat lookin ride. Does it have the original 350 ? Paint looks pretty darn good . Is that knock your socks off blue? Are the stripes painted on? Some sic lookin wheels. That 69 SS of yours is way better lookin then the New Camaro . Great Purchase congrats on your 69 wish it was mine that 69. Thes locking billet Hood pins would sure look good on your 69 plus added security. I got off the cooling/t-stat subject and I apoligize . You have 2 awesome rides a nice collection....

 

[rcantu]

convert to efi and no issues like carb. if it sat for a while the carb may need to be rejetted and tuned. go efi and never have issues. also your mpg gets better.

smart purchase. when the new camaro comes out...

 

[John Larkin]

You're right; carbed cars need to have the pedal floored once before starting to set the choke. Kinda forget about those things over time with every car nowadays being EFI. It wouldn't hurt to give it one or two more pumps after the choke is set.

 

[John Larkin]

Does it look like this? Passenger side is the choke.

 

["Turbo-T"]

To piggy back what's already been said, yes you need a t-stat in there. I don't know why anyone takes them out unless if it sticks while out and about somewhere and it's just a quick fix to get her home, even still you need to replace it.

As far as the carb, usually one good pump will set the choke. Sometimes 2 because when you are pumping the pedal, not only are you setting the choke but you are also squirting some fuel down into the intake to assist in start up.

If it is an electric choke like the one shown, make sure it's getting a 12 volt and ground when the key is in the "run" position. Definitely make sure that choke is working. My last car didn't have a choke at all and you had to use your foot to keep it warmed up.

Also what kind of intake does your car have? If it's something like an Edelbrock Air Gap (has the visible area under the intake runners) those intakes block off the heat cross over found on both heads, which of course that heat cross over is used to warm the runners up for better cold starts.

If you're still not sure what you are doing drop by my house, I'll gladly trade you that car for my Regal.

 

[Junior Samples]

Pull the air cleaner, depress pedal fully one time and see where your choke is sitting,
3 screws on choke housing, loosen then turn CCW to adjust choke a little tighter.
start car and watch choke and let it warm up...every now and then a quick varoom on the pedal should open choke a little more each time as it warms up.

After a couple mins and a few of them varooms it should be not fully open but about 11 oclock Edit: IM a quadrajet guy so forget this one

Once its warm shut off, choke should not shut

Make sure you have your static time correct then your vac advance correct then your mechanical advance correct.

Whats the motor?, heads/valves, cam?

sweet car i might add...and get a stat in there, drill small hole before you install with the no stat...thats once again prolly your main issue so get the stat in then check out your choke adjustment

 

[RUQWKNF27]

Car is a 69 SS clone. Has new hood / fenders/ floor pan/ 1/4's/ radiator support/trunk lid/carpet/interior/hoodliner/etc. It is a 355 with ported polished 194 heads/gear drive not sure how this is better then a timing chain but its got a nice whine to it. Lunati 480 cam so its not big by no means just a nice lil rumble. 4sp with a M-22 rock crusher. Car was repainted Lemans blues with painted stripes and new window seals. Wheels are Billet Specialities 18" with Baer track edition brakes. There are still some things I want to change on car in the future but most of it has been done.

Thanks for the info mcasteel and others!

 

[TR Custom Parts]

NICE car! Without a doubt you need a t-stat! Car will take forever to warm up. Any Holley I ever used I didn't bother with a choke, not worth the trouble. A little practice with the gas pedal is all you need. BTW, the M-21 is not a "rock crusher" that would be the M-22. More PICS please.

 

[RUQWKNF27]

OK M-22 then.. I know the tranny has some low gears in it. The car erally wants to be driven when you drive it . Seems like put putting around makes it mad

 

[zeus87gn]

Holleys are interesting beasts to say the least.
There is a wealth of tuning info here: Holley Performance Products Technical Library

I have finally got my Holley running right on my Jeep.
No cold start or operational issues. Pump the pedal once and it fires right up!
Now that it is right, I won't bother with a FI conversion.
Too time and much money involved and won't get the performance.

Read up, get that Holley tuned and you will be more pleased than you ever thought you'd be.
With that motor setup, that 750 is perfect!
When you're done tuning, you won't be able to keep back tires on it.
Oh, buy stock in Exxon (or your oil company of choice).

BTW, that 69 is BEAUTIFUL!!!!!
Excellent find.

We need to get a DROOL smiley.

 

[GNSCOTT]

No t-stat = over cooling.

Sorry if this sounds stupid, but I was told your car will over heat if you do not run a stat. I was told the water needs to spend a certain amount of time in the radiator to effeciently cool. I mean how do you over cool an engine, especially todays alluminum engines?

 

[tommynos]

I run the Quick Fuel/ Pro Form 850 double pump on my 406 and it fires right up and with 2 revs,it stays running and responds like it dont have a trans attached..It has been the best carb ive ever owned by far,all others had to warm up a bit..P.S I know its alot of carb

As far as cooling,I dont run a thermostat and run a CFI electric water pump, a factory mounted Be Cool radiator with a electric fan and drive around in the summer with no problems and in the winter it never stalls and I have a pretty big solid cam....

Nice color....I thought about white stripes when I had mine painted in the day...

 

[tommynos]

Sorry if this sounds stupid, but I was told your car will over heat if you do not run a stat. I was told the water needs to spend a certain amount of time in the radiator to effeciently cool. I mean how do you over cool an engine, especially todays alluminum engines?

That can be true but every motor reacts different..Ive heard it moves too fast threw,but iver never had that issue,ive heard of just removing the center and leaving it,but most all my old school motors had no thermostat,unless I wanted to run a heater,which is not needed in Florida ..Ive also heard some cars,such as 80s and 90s vettes run better around 190-210 and it effects the computer? But for old school non computer motors you DONT need a thermostat,if you dont need heat in your ride..

 

[JSTTA]

T-stat

A Thermostat Will Help The Car Warm Up Quicker. When The Water Temp Reaches The Tstat Temp, The T-stat Opens And Lets The Coolant Circulate Thru The Rad As The Air And Fan Cool It. The Do Make A High Flow Thermostat. A 160 Would Be Fine. Very Nice Ride Good Luck With It!!

 

["Turbo-T"]

Clone or not, it still looks good in the pics. 69 Camaros are what I'd call a "rich man's hot rod".

It is a 355 with ported polished 194 heads. 4sp with a M-22 rock crusher.

Just so you know, "194 heads" is a general term for a set of heads with the 1.94 intake. Some heads even have 2.02 valves and all the time that's what people call them, instead of by the casting numbers. If you ever pull a valve cover, look for the head casting number, it will usually be between the valve springs and will look something like this: 333882. Then you can go to nastyZ28.com and find out a bit more info. Not all small block Chevy heads are good heads.

BTW, the M-21 is not a "rock crusher" that would be the M-22.

Very true. In fact, most don't know that, the M22 was the top of the line trans for big blocks and high hp small blocks. The only difference is the M22 has less angled teeth that give it a distinct whine, hence why they call it an M22.

OK M-22 then.. I know the tranny has some low gears in it.

The M22 and M21 trans both used the same ratio of gears, 2:20 1st, and I can't remember the rest, they did have an M20 that had an even lower 1st gear, like a 2:52.

Of course I can only hope you actually have a Muncie in there, they also had a weaker 4 speed known as a Saginaw. I bought a 71 Nova once I was told had a Muncie 4 speed, I didn't know the difference at the time or how to tell one apart so I bought it.....turned out to be a Saginaw, after that I started granny shifting it in hopes of not breaking it. Car did run like a bat out of hell though.

Sorry if this sounds stupid, but I was told your car will over heat if you do not run a stat. I was told the water needs to spend a certain amount of time in the radiator to efficiently cool.

I haven't heard of it overheating by not running a T stat. If anything I have heard not running a T stat does not allow for complete combustion due to too low of an engine temp, anyone else heard of this?

 

[Junior Samples]

yeah with old school brass rad's you would want the water to stay in the rad longer to dissipate. once the coolant is at constant temp runing un restricted its only going to get warmer with no time for rad to do its job but also depends on length of time drivin eh?
not sure about a cavitation (sp?) issue inside block with coolant un restricted, prolly not though, air bubbles would do more harm id think.

id just drill hole in stat, put in and burp it good