Which parts would you absolutely swear by?

[turbodave231]

All Spring cleaning items, THDP, free flowing exhaust system, fuel pump/hotwire, adjustable FPR, Tinman Coldair system, boost gage, scan tool, prom .

The parts above should put you in the low 12's. Not fast enough? Step up the turbo and injectors......lots of choices

 

[XXQUICK6XX]

Scan tool, and good fuel.

 

[turbo]

If your car is really clean. like paint, interior, + low miles, why not sell it? You can get more money for a car that's totally stock, like others have mentioned.

Then go out and buy one that has mods already done for a lot less and it could have 5 thousand or more in mods. A friend did just that. You'll be money ahead, without doing all the work necessary for the times you want to run.

You might be in the 10 percentile of cars that haven't been messed with. I have a feeling most of the guys who have said to keep it stock, have had their cars for several years. Maybe you should wait 5 more years and see if you feel the same.

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

Dynamite comes in small packages.

I have seen alot of members throw alot of money at these cars and only go a little faster than other "dead ringer" fast stock cars.

If its stock, do the simple upgrades like 340 pump and hotwire kit, 3 inch THDP with no cat and a good dual exhaust system... I prefer hooker 16810, i went 120mph with it and a 2 1/2 test pipe with a te44 turbo.

The items that i swear by are good rear suspension upgrades such as the HR bar or the knock off ATR bar, good solid rear upper and lower control arms,drive shaft loop and some et drags, not et streets.

You can have all the horsepower in the world, if you cant put it to the ground, then its worthless!

I wouldnt go all out, i would do some small upgrades like a stock location stretch, Julios methanol injection, Erics turbo tweak chips, te44 or ta49 turbo, tranny shift kit with additional cooler, and a rjc bleeder to get it to spool faster so you can still use the stock convertor.
BW

 

[rodman99999]

Then again(In reply to what Turbo said): If you want a fast car that you KNOW has been built right; you've got a virgin there that you can screw with anyway you want. There are too many cars out there that people with no clue have butchered, and you could end up unscrewing someone else's abortion. Take your time, research the proven mods(there are plenty-ala what Quick6 said), do it right the first time. OH- and save everything you take off the car, so you can restore it if you ever so desire. Nothing wrong with having a really nice/fast/rare car that you built yourself IF that's what YOU want! Just have fun!! :biggrin:

 

[JC Turbo]

In addition to what Quick6'n'-K.C said. Baseline the car, make sure it's running perfect in stock form then go from there. You can add all the go fast goodies you want, but if the tune is not right you might get beat by a good running stocker! Look at my sig, there is nothing magical done to my car or alot of others. It's in the combo, tuning, chip etc.... Good luck and have fun modding that rare combo car!

 

[Ttype6]

Greddy Profec B Spec 2 Boost Controller.

 

[Ssvalleyboy]

THDP, free flowing exhaust system,

Just picked it up today from the muffler shop. THDP, 2.5 SS exhaust, magnaflows= AWESOME
I never knew exhaust cold wake a car up like this!
Very satisfied!!!

 

[ANDYS87]

SSvalleyboy,

Do you know where that shop got your 2.5 inch SS/magnaflow system from? I'm looking for the same thing.

 

[Ssvalleyboy]

I bought it as a complete set from a GN owner in WA. We have a mutual friend, and he hooked me up.

 

[Jerryl]

I vote for a Scantool myself.
Without it, not much else will matter as you start pushing towards the upper limits of the combo.

 

[Evans Ward]

Scan tool and Steadfast collar guard. Both will help keep you and your car safe!

 

[evil666]

In addition to what Quick6'n'-K.C said. Baseline the car, make sure it's running perfect in stock form then go from there. You can add all the go fast goodies you want, but if the tune is not right you might get beat by a good running stocker! Look at my sig, there is nothing magical done to my car or alot of others. It's in the combo, tuning, chip etc.... Good luck and have fun modding that rare combo car!

For your car to run that extremly well do you lock the torque convertor? How much boost are you running and what octane fuel are you using with the alky injection? How much does your car weigh? I am really amazed how well yur car runs.

I hope you don't mind answering my questions.
Thanks.
Marco.

86 Grand National t-top (59900km)
stock long block,stock suspension, red stripe convertor, te44, smc alk injection, 24lbs boost, 94 octane, hooker cat back with dyno max ultra flow muffers, tomco 30lbs injectors, dynotech stage 4 street chip, thdp, mease 24 row IC, Ron Custom max boost brake module, MT drag radials (275/50/15) 3800lbs race weight with driver.
BEST E/T
60FT=1.52
1/8= 7.38
I/4= 11.74
MPH=113
BESTmph=114

 

[JC Turbo]

1) For your car to run that extremly well do you lock the torque convertor?

Yes I lock the torque converter. I lock it at the line so as soon as it shifts into second it locks up.

2) How much boost are you running and what octane fuel are you using with the alky injection?

I run 27# of boost with race gas ie 115 octane. I'm afraid of running pump gas and alky at the track. I feel the race gas is cheap insurance.

3) How much does your car weigh? I am really amazed how well yur car runs.

My car is a Limited Regal and weighs 3700# with driver and 1/4 tank of gas.

 

[SPOOLFOOL2]

The envelope please...

And, the #1 thing that you can get to make these cars faster is?

Knowledge...

Not trying to sound like a smart a$$, but it's true. If I knew 4 years ago, what I know now, I wouldn't have bought half the stuff I bought (or would have picked the right parts for my goals) and would be quicker.

OH yea, know any one that's looking for a KB air canister, or a longer pinion snubber? I'l sell them cheap .

 

[evil666]

1) For your car to run that extremly well do you lock the torque convertor?

Yes I lock the torque converter. I lock it at the line so as soon as it shifts into second it locks up.

2) How much boost are you running and what octane fuel are you using with the alky injection?

I run 27# of boost with race gas ie 115 octane. I'm afraid of running pump gas and alky at the track. I feel the race gas is cheap insurance.

3) How much does your car weigh? I am really amazed how well yur car runs.

My car is a Limited Regal and weighs 3700# with driver and 1/4 tank of gas.

Thanks for anwsering my questions. I read that locking your torque convertor to early is bad for the torque, and to lock it in third gear is easier on the torque. Have you had any problems according to locking your torque from the line? How much did you gain in et and mph by locking the torque? What kind of tires do you use at the track and what height? Do you still run the stock gears?

Thanks,
Marco.

86 Grand National t-top (59900km)
stock long block,stock suspension, red stripe convertor, te44, smc alk injection, 24lbs boost, 94 octane, hooker cat back with dyno max ultra flow muffers, tomco 30lbs injectors, dynotech stage 4 street chip, thdp, mease 24 row IC, Ron Custom max boost brake module, MT drag radials (275/50/15) 3800lbs race weight with driver. (Torque convertor not locked)
BEST E/T
60FT=1.52
1/8= 7.38
I/4= 11.74
MPH=113
BESTmph=114

 

[vicious6]

What I swear by? All new sensors, new injectors and a perfectly tuned daily driver. Build from there. No point in throwing fast parts on an engine that cant idle worth a crap or sucks gas cause the tune is shot. Sure, its not very sexy or fun, but neither is trying to run 11's with stock leaky injectors, 150 vacuum leaks, a cam sensor 180 out, a loose crank sensor, a dead o2 sensor...you get the point. Build a good platform first.

I agree 100%. Start with a properly tuned stock car before adding anything.

 

[JC Turbo]

Thanks for anwsering my questions. I read that locking your torque convertor to early is bad for the torque, and to lock it in third gear is easier on the torque. Have you had any problems according to locking your torque from the line? How much did you gain in et and mph by locking the torque? What kind of tires do you use at the track and what height? Do you still run the stock gears?

Thanks,
Marco.

I have not had a problem with the way I lock my converter, however my transmission is built and I have a 3200 Precision converter. But my friend TurboTimmer runs a stock D5 converter and runs it the same way. He has had no problems other that its hard to spool a large turbo against the foot brake with a stock D5 converter.

I don't know how much I gained by locking the converter, my car came around pretty quickly but I had changed several things all at once.

I run Hoosier 28X9 slicks on Weld 15X8 wheels with the stock 3.42 gears.

When I'm at home I can give you my complete combo, I have it on a word document.

If you plan on going any faster i think you need to upgrade your injectors IMHO.

 

[turbojimmy]

I hate when I ask a question and people tell me to go somewhere else but.....

The recipes on gnttype.org are really good. They're getting dated but the principles still apply. They point out, like others have here, that you have to start with a good-running car. After that follow the recipe. A scan tool should be the first thing you get. It won't make you go faster right away, but it will help you do it safely.

Jim

 

[TurboBuickSix]

Nobody mentioned the power plate yet,and I don't see them in everyone's sig anymore..are these quietly going away?