which engine oil to use...

B

BKLYN2FLORIDA

Member
Joined
Jun 10, 2009
Hello Again People

I am planing to change the engine oil for the 1st time, since i obtained it from an estate sale, so i dont know what type of oil has been previously used. It has 62k on the motor, and has been sitting for a few years.
ive talked to a few mechanics some say go synthetic, (even the spring cleaning forum says this), but other mechanics said dont go synthetic since i dont know the history of the car, and if i go synthetic the seals can leak and cam get worn.
I dont plan to do serious racing, but want it to run at it best, maybe a few bolt-ons :cool: .
can anyone tell me from experience if they suffered from seal leaks after they went to synthetic.
I really dont want to wind up with engine problems if i dont need to.;)
thanks again
 
anyone know if the info the mechanics told me about synthetic oils and leaking seals true??? or

and you advised Mobil 1, is that the synthetic version, or conventional oil??
 
BKLYN2FLORIDA said:
anyone know if the info the mechanics told me about synthetic oils and leaking seals true??? or

and you advised Mobil 1, is that the synthetic version, or conventional oil??
Click to expand...

It's possible it may make it leak but it is a Buick and the majority do leak it's a Buick thing:biggrin:
 
I run Mobil 1 5W40 Turbo deisel synthetic. It has 1300 ppm ZDDP.
I run Mobil 1 synthetic in everything I own and I didn't notice any extra or more leaks. If it is gonna leak, it's gonna leak, synthetic or not.
I have a 383 cu in stroker in my 91 burb and it has over 75,000 miles on it with Mobil 1 and it has an 8 quart oil pan. I did rear main seal a while back and the motor looked new inside. I just passed AZ emissions and all my numbers were in the lower 1/3
Tarey

I swear by Mobil 1
 
There's more conventional oils out there than decently priced synthetics to choose from with proper ZDDP or decent antiwear additives for our cars.

There's also plenty of synthetics for more $$$ such as Royal Purple etc. that make good synthetic oils that don't need additives.

That being said Mobil 1 does offer one synthetic that doesn't need the extra additives some use, 15-50 weight.

It can increase leaks, it did on my 155K car when I switched over to synth., but wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it was going to be however.

A few extra drops a week not the flood I expected and that was in the old formulation Mobil 1 10-30 version too.

I'd probably stick with a good conventional oil which you can find with the SF, SG, SH, SJ, ratings that work just fine.

Kendall GT I believe is one.

Lots of threads here about oil so start reading. :cool:
 
I use conventional oil and a bottle of EOS. I will add ZDDP after my last 2 bottles of EOS are gone.
 
Amsoil

I know that aimsoil is the best synthetic on the market and has been for the last few years. Does anyone use it?
 
Brad Penn 20-50

Their spec sheet shows: zinc mass 0.150 %, phosphorous 0.140 % and sulfated ash mass 1.2 %. Anybody know if these contents are good to use with the flat tappets for decent protection?

thanks
 
I've been using Valvoline VR1 Race Oil 20-50, might have to give the Brad Penn a look it's coming pretty highly recommended.
 
I use royal purple in all my LC2 , ls1 and ls2 cars :cool:

I can actuall tell a diff in the spool of the turbo for the first 300 or so miles with RP

My car had a cold knock with mobil 1. Changed oil to royal purple no knock.
Did the same thing in my dads 12k mile 87 GN
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

T
Engine to transmission bolts loose
Replies
1
Views
460
Chuck Leeper
Chuck Leeper
N2BUICK
Remote oil filter adapter unscrewing when cold
Replies
1
Views
254
Chuck Leeper
Chuck Leeper
N
Procar Elite seats please chime in
Replies
6
Views
396
Clark6
C
D
runs with stock ecm, not with xfi 2.0
Replies
19
Views
529
DGC
D
TIMINATOR
ALUMINUM POWER STEERING RESEVOIR?
2
Replies
22
Views
1K
Chuck Leeper
Chuck Leeper
Top