Where to buy Positive camber control arms?

[1QuikV6]

Just got back from getting my car's front end aligned, and was told that there are no more shims to remove to get out of negative camber. They said that someone makes a unit that is bent in the middle to allow for positive camber. Anyone know what they are talking about?

 

[petesgn]

I think the part is a offset control arm shaft.

The moog part number for the shaft is K6218.



Hope this helps.

 

[Gokou]

Rather than treating the symptom by going to an offset upper cross shaft, why not have the root of the problem fixed and have your frame rolled? Over the years, the front frame sags and the upper control arm mounting points slowly move inwards, which as you know leads to the alignment shop running out of shims.

Having your frame rolled will cost about $250-300, and will fix the root of your problem. You usually don't even have to remove anything more than the wheels to get it done. They chain down the outer "ears" of the frame near the shocks, and push up with a ram under the crossmember, which rolls the ears back outwards.

Offset cross shafts will get you by for now, but sooner or later the frame will sag to the point where even the offsets won't be good enough and you'll have to roll the frame. It's up to you, but I would have the frame rolled. Just find a good, reputable shop. A good shop can do the job in about 2 hours.

 

[1QuikV6]

Thanks for the info Gokou, I had no idea that would be a cause. Makes sense though.

And thanks for the part number from Moog Pete.

I will call around for the frame straightener first.

If anyone else has some more info, keep 'em coming.

 

[Matt Weiser]

Just how negative is your camber? You may not need to do anything unless it's more than -1 degree, I would say, which is streetable as long as you can still get the other alignment settings in spec. Just rotate your tires regularly to even out the wear. More negative camber will actually make your car handle better (less understeer).

 

[1QuikV6]

here are the results...

Matt, here is where the front end is at now:
Left Front- camber is -0.69 , caster is 3.01 , toe is 0.03
Right Front- camber is -0.03 , caster is 4.08 , toe is 0.03

That is the best they could get it.

 

[UNGN]

Is that a T-top car? Why I ask is our pontiac is setup with about -1 degree of camber (you can see the wheel lean in the pictures on my web site) at it handles great. For a daily driver it will result in excessive tire wear, but If it was a hardtop car I would keep the tires rotated and enjoy it. If it's a T-top car, I'd fix it

 

[Matt Weiser]

1QuikV6:
Those are really not bad numbers at all. If anything, I might have them dial in MORE negative camber on the pass. side so the sides are equal. I recently did my own alignment and my specs are about the same as yours, though I dialed in about -.5 degree camber on both sides, and i really like how it drives. As long as you like how the car feels (doesn't pull or wander, and it shouldn't with those numbers) I would leave it.

 

[1QuikV6]

UNGN, my car is a hard-top

Matt, the car does ride nice so I may take your advise and have them dial in the sides equally.

The car is a daily driver and I don't want the tires wearing on the inside because I can't rotate them.
My fronts are BFG KDW 245/50/16 and the rears are Yokahama YF40 255/50/16.

Thanks for all the input fellas.

 

[Matt Weiser]

Yep, I'm in the same boat, can't rotate my tires. Tires are the same size, but I have GTA wheels, which have different offsets front and rear. Even so, I'm not too worried about it because any uneven wear shouldn't be that severe with the kind of negative camber we're talking about.

 

[1QuikV6]

I have the same GTA wheels as you Matt. We really are in the same boat. If your set-up works for you, then it should work for me too. Although, I will probably still have my frame looked at. Surely couldn't hurt.

Thanks again.

 

[Matt Weiser]

Cool. Any problem with the clearance on those 255s in back? I might go that route when I wear out my current set (245/50/16 Yoko AVS dB). That may take a while, unless my plans to turn up to boost work out.

 

[Donald McMullin]

Matt, I am using 255x16 tires mounted on 8.5 inch wide rims on the rear which have lots of clearance on both sides (frame to tire and tire to outer wheel well). Rims are GTA centers welded into custom 8.5 x 16 outer shell with 4.125 inch backspacing.

Deep Enough
Donald McMullin

 

[1QuikV6]

Originally posted by Matt Weiser
Cool. Any problem with the clearance on those 255s in back? I might go that route when I wear out my current set (245/50/16 Yoko AVS dB). That may take a while, unless my plans to turn up to boost work out.

No Matt, there are no fittment problems with these tires. And they perform very well in rain and lite snow. The grip isn't as good as the KDW but they serve a different purpose anyway.

 

[petesgn]

Originally posted by Donald McMullin
Matt, I am using 255x16 tires mounted on 8.5 inch wide rims on the rear which have lots of clearance on both sides (frame to tire and tire to outer wheel well). Rims are GTA centers welded into custom 8.5 x 16 outer shell with 4.125 inch backspacing.

Deep Enough
Donald McMullin

Who did the rims for you and how much did they run you?

 

[Donald McMullin]

Trudesign did the work on my rims. The phone number is 1-800-621-6436. You will have to talk with them about the cost. They had to do some additional things to my rims, so my cost is not a good indicator as to what your costs might be. However, your cost should be in the range of $250 to $275 per rim.

This might seem high to some (those who want to buy gold for the price of lead), but you get a correct width and backspacing instead of living with a compromise.

They have done other work for me also, which is always first rate.

Deep Enough
Donald McMullin