Where can you buy a replacement fan resistor?
- Thread starter SickNasty
- Start date
TurboHungry
Member
- Joined
- Nov 21, 2003
Buick Reatta has a fan resistor looks exactly the same but i didn't ohm it out.
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Unless your doing a concours restoration I would eliminate it. Bypassing it allows full voltage to get to the fan, the resistor was just that-- resisting power to the fan motor to run it at a slower speed.
There are a few parameters that control the fan on and off, but fan speed is routed soley through that resistor.
I had taken some off of another year FWD 3.8 and they were pretty close but not exact. I have them buried away some where, one I have the ceramic was near virgin white.
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There are a few parameters that control the fan on and off, but fan speed is routed soley through that resistor.
I had taken some off of another year FWD 3.8 and they were pretty close but not exact. I have them buried away some where, one I have the ceramic was near virgin white.
.The resistor is a 0.3 ohm 40 watt wirewound "sand-bar" specially fabricated with a bracket and lugs on the ends. No longer available from anyone.
Bypassing it will make the fan run on high whenever low is called out, and will help in cooling, but will shorten the life of the coolant fan.
Time to upgrade to dual fans if you have a problem.
Bypassing it will make the fan run on high whenever low is called out, and will help in cooling, but will shorten the life of the coolant fan.
Time to upgrade to dual fans if you have a problem.
I was about to say talk to John at Casper's about it lol
H
Heisenberg
Guest
If we are talking about the resistor that mounts down in the top of the blower motor housing on the passengers side cowl - then my suggestion - is to do like I always do and take all of them while visiting the boneyard and spotting anything 78 - thru Years 1988...G body or even Chevy Caprice or Pontiac Parisienne.
While the G bodies - or more specifically - Regals, may be a tougher find, there are always lots of suitable era cars to pick apart.
I not only grab the motor blower, clip the wiring harness portion (you can use it to test the blower motor), the A/C relay since they always need to be painted silver anyway, and the fan resistor.
Most time the pull-a-parts yard hardly will charge you for that resistor if you are buying anything of consequence.
I chrome or powdercoat the blower motors all time
So, for me - it usually also includes the wiper motor and wiper arms (hard to find new - and again - even if bright color - they paint black just fine), the wiper arm connecting bar - (it's usually nasty and can use a nice powdercoat), the lower windshield reveal molding (even if stainless as they paint up to black nicely , the squirters, the squirter hose clips on the cowl, the wiper arm rests and etc. Window surround reveal molding - but oft times the rubber seal is wasted. Cowl to hood rubber seal if it's decent as well gets pulled off.
While I'm in that area, I also grab a lot of the frame / hard line clamps and screws since they are kind of a special type screw (large), and those clamps can always use a re-freshening on my cars.
Fuel vapor cannisters also if you get lucky.
I always grab 15" - 4-3/4" lug pattern steel rims w/ tires for car purchases (oh it doesn't go with those wheels) , my roller or paint projects.
Keep your eye open for the correct sized space saver spares - those aren't the easiest to find either since so many late models have different lug patterns, use a large front wheel drive type offset, or use a much smaller spare.
It's just nice to have a lot of these pieces available for refinishing and re-installation when the mood strikes.
Hit that local boneyard regularly to keep your misc parts bins stocked!
Those G bodies and such tend to get picked apart quickly - then squished to make Korean rebar.
While the G bodies - or more specifically - Regals, may be a tougher find, there are always lots of suitable era cars to pick apart.
I not only grab the motor blower, clip the wiring harness portion (you can use it to test the blower motor), the A/C relay since they always need to be painted silver anyway, and the fan resistor.
Most time the pull-a-parts yard hardly will charge you for that resistor if you are buying anything of consequence.
I chrome or powdercoat the blower motors all time
So, for me - it usually also includes the wiper motor and wiper arms (hard to find new - and again - even if bright color - they paint black just fine), the wiper arm connecting bar - (it's usually nasty and can use a nice powdercoat), the lower windshield reveal molding (even if stainless as they paint up to black nicely , the squirters, the squirter hose clips on the cowl, the wiper arm rests and etc. Window surround reveal molding - but oft times the rubber seal is wasted. Cowl to hood rubber seal if it's decent as well gets pulled off.
While I'm in that area, I also grab a lot of the frame / hard line clamps and screws since they are kind of a special type screw (large), and those clamps can always use a re-freshening on my cars.
Fuel vapor cannisters also if you get lucky.
I always grab 15" - 4-3/4" lug pattern steel rims w/ tires for car purchases (oh it doesn't go with those wheels) , my roller or paint projects.
Keep your eye open for the correct sized space saver spares - those aren't the easiest to find either since so many late models have different lug patterns, use a large front wheel drive type offset, or use a much smaller spare.
It's just nice to have a lot of these pieces available for refinishing and re-installation when the mood strikes.
Hit that local boneyard regularly to keep your misc parts bins stocked!
Those G bodies and such tend to get picked apart quickly - then squished to make Korean rebar.
H
Heisenberg
Guest
Yes - I saw John's reply - so figured it wasn't the heater blower motor resistor. Thanks.
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