wheel hop

Vendor Defendor

Out the window
Joined
Nov 25, 2002
hey i took my stock GN to the track friday night and on all of my runs i had really bad wheel hop, what can i do to stop it, and can it because my tires are bad?

thanks for any help

neil
 
Throw in a set of air-bags and be rid of wheel hop in 99.9% of the cases.
HTH
Jim
 
Good Advice Already Posted!!

What boost were you leaving at?

What kind of tires?

What shocks do you have?

:confused:
 
There are two kinds of wheel hop, some caused by worn components ( bushings and weak arms ) and the main culprit which is the bad rear suspension geometry.

Fix the geometry to an "anti squat" version and your troubles are over.

Don't be fooled by lowering the bars, it does move the I/C back but also moves it up into the car which is not ideal.

I fab a kit that does work, been on my car for 3 years now.

Pinion snubbers and air bags are a bandaide for bad geometry.
 
I fab a kit that does work....

How 'bout some details. I need to know what to put on my Xmas list...... :)

Bob
 
Working on the patent and website, got 5 units ready to ship.
"Bolt on"
Send direct mail for pricing and pics.
 
Pinion Snubbers

I agree that pinion snubbers don't belong on a Buick, but the air bags are an easy way to "preload" the right rear tire, to make up for engine torque "lifting" that tire. An adjustable rear suspension could also preload the right rear, I guess. Does your kit allow this? Is it easy to adjust?
 
Even a Regal with a 3.8 2-barrel will have wheel hop problems. I know boxing ther LCA's will cure this. So will the air bag. The air bag are easier to install but will cost ~$40 each. Boxing the LCAs may be a little harder (just a little), but will basically cost only the welding charges (muffler shop maybe).


The boxed LCA's have an advantage. Once done, they are done. Always erady and they help with handling as well. The air bags need to be adjusted for the type of driving. Leave any air in them, and the ride home from the track becomes harsh.
 
Yes , adjustable for preload.

No need for a bag as the chassis will lift, not squat.
 
Re: Good Advice Already Posted!!

Originally posted by Two Lane
What boost were you leaving at?

What kind of tires?

What shocks do you have?

i was leaving at about 4-5 pounds of boost last two runs, i have pirnelle (sp?) 225/60/15's that are so bald they dont leave tread marks when driving throw dirt, and i have monrow or something like that shocks, in a short time im getting 275/60/15 nitto drag radials...

and did a little burn out, mostly to get all of the garbage off the tires, and when i did that i had wheel hop too...
 
Just an observation of mine about the DOT "drag" tires. IMO, the BFG DR's hook better on the track, and the Nittos seem to hook better on the street. If you don't need to have a radial on the rear, then the Hoosier QT Pro's (DOT legal) hook really well on both the street and strip...just don't get caught in the rain with'em! As far as the wheel hop problem you have. I found that a good set of LCA's nearly eliminate wheel hop. If your budget is tight, have someone box the OE lowers, and press in a set of polygraphite bushings and you should be happy. If you really want to go all out, new or boxed UCA's and and an airbag will really help your situation.
 
Originally posted by turbov6joe
If you don't need to have a radial on the rear, then the Hoosier QT Pro's (DOT legal) hook really well on both the street and strip...just don't get caught in the rain with'em!

I think a rain tire is needed, since it rains here at least once a week stupid florida!!!:mad:
 
Here's what happened on my car:

stock everything out the back, 235/60/15 BFG VR4's:

had bad wheel hop

Bought KYB shocks:

wheel hop turned into wheel spin.
That tells me know the power is getting to the ground.

Right now I am installing boxed LCA's, airbags, and Nitto 275/60/15's. I will go from 2.26 short times to ?????????
 
Quick question for a suspension newbie...
what are boxed LCAs and how do they work?
thanks ( i learn a lot here ) :D






Happy Holdiays
 
The old acronym, what the ???

LCA, Lower, Control Arm

I still don't get the TTT replies, whats the point ??

Boxing the lower arms is cheap and effective first step in fixing the suspension, I suggest HR parts for the kit, and maybe your local muffler shop for the install, not to technical.

When you are ready to fix the geometry, contact me for a Relocator kit, 1/2 of a GNX kit and works much better.
 
LCA =Lower control arms.

UCA =Uper control arms.

TTT =To the top. (repost above other posts).

So... What's a bling bling???
 
Bling bling ?????

TTT, repost above other post, doe's that mean go back to the first one, it would make sense, thanks.
 
Posting "TTT" is just a way to get the thread back To The Top of the board. I think "bling bling" is a term used by ricer types in reference to expensive shiny things like jewelry or crazy wheels. :rolleyes:
 
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