What would u do next with my GN?

R

rssooner

Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2003
Hello everyone

Let me first say Happy Thanksgiving to the Buick Community.

I have not done anything to my GN in over 8 years and I want to get back into running it at the track. Here is what I have done to the car thus far.

Alky - 8 years old
Fuel pump hot wired - 10 years old
Adj fuel regulator
60lb injectors
3000 PTC stall - not sure if it's L/U or non LU
Valve springs - other wise unopened motor
TE-60
Stretched intercooler
3" down pipe and exhaust with cut out
HR and stuff rear uppers, lowers and sway bar
Upgraded brakes
Tranny cooler
Power logger - minimum knowledge on this since I've been out of it so long
TT chip - also 8+ years plus
Old slicks - MT DR are on the rears now
Line lock
Transbrake

I'm sure I'm leaving something off. Anyway, what would u do to her if you had about $2000 to spend. I don't really want to upgrade turbo b/c I don't think I have ran it to its potential. I will tell u one thing I can't stand doing is controlling boost from the actuator rod under the turbo. I would love to control that from inside the car. I have run a best of 11.78 with 1.6x ft. I will be curious to what everyone recommends.


Thanks a lot.

RS
 
jpratt said:
Send the alky pump to be freshened up.
Get a new turbo tweak chip.
Trash them rear tires and get a new set.


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
Click to expand...
All that, plus have the torque converter checked out. Check out the turbo for play and maybe upgrade to a newer billet wheel model.
 
Oops just saw you don't want to spring for a new turbo. But I would do the alky pump for sure. How many miles on the motor?
 
I don't see any scan tool. That would be #1. Then check out the alky pump (they generally don't do 8 years), fuel pump, and chip.
 
I would flush all fluids, check fuel pressure or just install new pump, replace vacuum lines and intake pipe rubber hoses everywhere. Definitely have the alky pump rebuilt. Check the shocks and suspension bushings up front. If you don't have a scanmaster I would get one even though you have a PL. I also like a wideband gauge where I can see it at all times.

Look the brake and fuel lines over real good. Change plugs and possible wires. Probably not a bad idea to change valve cover gaskets.

My car was built back in 2004 with all new parts from that era and had a few updates in 2007 then sat until this year when I bought it. My biggest performance gain was a new convertor. I had a 3200 LU stall when I bought the car and lost lock up so I went with a new 3250 LU from Dave Husek and the car picked up a lot. If your convertor is working for you just run it and spend the money somewhere else. I had no choice.

I have a TT chip from 2007 and it works fine but I will be going to the TT SD2 chip in the spring. Do some reading on that chip, it self tunes with a wideband which you should get anyway. You have a PL so that part of it is out of the way. Then you don't need to worry about a MAF going bad like mine did. It eliminates it.

Like someone else said new tires wouldn't be a bad idea if yours have some age to them. Better safe than sorry. Like you I am still controlling boost with the rod at the turbo. It's working fine at 23 boost but I have never turned it any higher at this point. I've been told what I have will work just fine for my goals.

Good luck with getting the car back on the road.
 
Lots of good info posted here for you, and I will add my 2 comments. :)

First, I would replace the 10 year old fuel pump as one hic-cup can have an expensive result.

Second, I do like and use the Scanmaster, but I would depend first on a Powerlogger as it will give you much more and useful data. We have found many issues and glitches that only the PL could uncover, and we can do a better tune using the data.

If you use a wideband O2 with it, you will have an excellent, reliable street warrior! :D
 
Thanks everyone for the replies. I do have the power logger but it's not hooked up to measure boost or anything extra. Also, I have always just used the O2 sensor that I have bought from the local auto parts store. What's the benefit of getting something different? Can someone explain this as well as a lot of people now using maf translators etc. I have no clue what these things do to improve our cars.

Thanks again for the input.
 
Nick Micale said:
Lots of good info posted here for you, and I will add my 2 comments. :)

First, I would replace the 10 year old fuel pump as one hic-cup can have an expensive result.

Second, I do like and use the Scanmaster, but I would depend first on a Powerlogger as it will give you much more and useful data. We have found many issues and glitches that only the PL could uncover, and we can do a better tune using the data.

If you use a wideband O2 with it, you will have an excellent, reliable street warrior! :D
Click to expand...

What new fuel pump do u recommend?

Thanks,
RS
 
Call ScotW at GNS Performance and get a DW300 fuel pump. Very nice pumps and great warranty.
Order a new ALKY system from Julio.
Get a Scanmaster.
Order the transducers needed to log your fuel pressure and ALKY in your Powerlogger.
Add that up...and then get new drag radials next.


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
Once you get everything else already mentioned id go for heads and more turbo. At least a larger turbine
 
Thanks everyone for the replies.

Looks like updating fuel pump and alky system is first along with a radiator, hoses, vacuum lines, etc. A couple of other questions I have are 1. What's the best way to control boost other than the rod under the turbo? 2. I use a old school O2 sensor but I am hearing about wide band etc. what are these?

Thanks again for all the help.

RS
 
A wideband is more precise than a narrow band and has a digital readout down to .5(and some with smaller increments I'd imagine). Also, you can log AFR which is a godsend for any turbo charged engine. It looks like a regular o2 sensor and requires a seperate bung in the downpipe at a certain distance downstream from the turbocharger. I'm at a similar point with my GN too, and am watching this thread.
 
Behind the turbo there is a grey vacuum "y". One end goes to the wastegate solenoid on the passenger side valve cover. disconnect it and run a line inside the car to a turbonetics black boost control knob. When the knob is turned all the way down it will be at "wastegate" boost. As you rotate the knob clockwise, it will bleed off air to the wastegate cause the gate to stay closed longer, INCREASING BOOST. It is very touchy so when you start to see increases, move it gradually to get it where you want it.
 
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