What to do with 2004r accumulators

[Warrant]

Im just a little confused on what to do with the 1-2 accum. and the 3-4 accum.

I would guess the best is as instructed in the CK book.

But just want to check to make sure.

For the 1-2 I will block it with check ball and leave out the spring and piston. Correct. Dont use the stiffer spring.

For the 3-4

Transgo kit says use two springs on top on each side of the piston.

CK says use updated piston with different single spring on top?? Is this right because the layout shows the the spring is under the piston??

Also I would assume the piston that came in the transgo kit is the updated one, so I could just get the spring from CK correct?

Thanks guys!!

 

[mikestertwo]

Follow the instructions in CK's book.

 

[Warrant]

will do.

Ill get the 3/4 spring from ck.


One more question, the transgo kit came with a "Guppy Plate" to fix a reverse leak. Do I need to use this??

Thanks!

 

[bison]

I wouldnt use any of the trans-go stuff. CK's is much better. Accum setups depend on converter selection.

 

[Warrant]

Thats odd.

Converter is a billet 9x11 3200 stall. 460 HP V8.

 

[bison]

Thats odd.

Converter is a billet 9x11 3200 stall. 460 HP V8.

NO its not. If you have a stock or close to stock tight converter using the stiffer springs/deleting accumulators will cause very harsh shifting even at minimum throttle angles. With looser higher stall converters it will not be as noticeable. Thats why there is more than one spring for the accumulators.

 

[Warrant]

I see,

So Transgo is assuming most users wont have a real high stall converter. :smile: Well see how it works out, using kinda of a mix between a already modified transgo kit and ck instructions on accums and other stuff.

Thanks Bison,

 

[bison]

I see,

So Transgo is assuming most users wont have a real high stall converter. :smile: Well see how it works out, using kinda of a mix between a already modified transgo kit and ck instructions on accums and other stuff.

Thanks Bison,

Be sure to replace the accum valve spring in the vb. If you dont have one block the line bias valve and use the spring that was on it to replace the factory accum valve spring.

 

[Warrant]

sounds like a good tip. Ill be sure to check on it.

wish I knew what all this does like how you can block it and replace with that spring.

CK's seems to do a great job at explaining stuff, maybe I need to sudy it and not just follow along

Guess Ill learn with time. only my 2nd GM build

 

[David Husek]

Pm Sent

 

[Firechicken]

Omitting the piston and spring and blocking the port in the 1-2 will result in very firm shifts if running a stock converter. You will easily have tire chirp on every shift even if very light throttle. If you have a looser/higher stall converter than stock, the added converter slop will eat up much of this firmness, and it won't chirp the tires unless under much heavier throttle. it makes for quite a nice shift in my opinion as I have a 3200 stall PTC lockup.

The updated 3-4 piston comes from a 700R4 trans, so you can get one pretty cheaply from ebay etc. Follow Ck's book on this one.

 

[bison]

Omitting the piston and spring and blocking the port in the 1-2 will result in very firm shifts if running a stock converter. You will easily have tire chirp on every shift even if very light throttle. If you have a looser/higher stall converter than stock, the added converter slop will eat up much of this firmness, and it won't chirp the tires unless under much heavier throttle. it makes for quite a nice shift in my opinion as I have a 3200 stall PTC lockup.

The updated 3-4 piston comes from a 700R4 trans, so you can get one pretty cheaply from ebay etc. Follow Ck's book on this one.

Eliminating the accumulators with a stock converter is a great way to break the splines on the front planetary. Ive done it myself. Chirping tires while cruising is not important. Solid properly timed ratio changes at WOT are what we are looking for here. If you have a 10" or smaller converter then i would delete the 2nd accumulator and omit the cenrter vb check ball. Stock or 12" converter its not a good idea.

 

[chris718]

Good reading.The new springs included in the shift kit size shift cushioning to converter diameter and efficiency.The red spring with a large servo and a 10 " converter are more than enough in my opinion for the 1/2 ratio change.People, including GM ,state that flipping the 4th accumulator firms up the shift.This is simply not true .There was never any factory calibration 2004r that had a firm shift into fourth.Deleting the 4th accumulator is a parts breaker in most cases unless your converter does a poor job transferring torque or you are running less than 200 psi wot line pressure.Why do we need a neck jerking ,parts twisting 4 th gear upshift in a 500 horsepower car is something I cant understand.We give you 2 springs and a resized orifice for 4th .This should be fine for any type of combination that a user may encounter.The factory accumulation was never right for longevity but helped to sell cars.People are claiming stock this and that and running low 10s.This is a very rare occurance unless you are living outside of reality in terms of what the parts can take.If you need a firmer 4th beyond what calibration parts offer drill the 4th feed hole out .005" at a time till you get where you want to be.When an accumulator is present in the circuit ,choose a clutch feed hole that supplies adequate oil flow to the friction element taking into consideration passage frictions,diameter ,width ,etc and then fine tune and use the accumulator for what is meant for ./Throttle and road speed sensitive shift accumulation.

 

[Firechicken]

Eliminating the accumulators with a stock converter is a great way to break the splines on the front planetary. Ive done it myself. Chirping tires while cruising is not important. Solid properly timed ratio changes at WOT are what we are looking for here. If you have a 10" or smaller converter then i would delete the 2nd accumulator and omit the cenrter vb check ball. Stock or 12" converter its not a good idea.

Agreed. This is to what I was alluding. I do have a 10" 3200 converter, so the shift is quite nice. With the stock converter in there it was just too crazy.

 

[GNeric]

Plus...blocking off the 4th accumulator and having the converter locked and shifting into 4th at full throttle can knock the back window out of the car. We have had a few cars around here do that around 1988.