What in God's name happened to my Fuel pump and Harness??

Chuck, each pump has its own #10 wire. The sender is a fac unit with obv thinner fac wires, 12 or 14 ga. This is how I bought this unit new. Obv it does not make sense. The bulk head connector is a fac piece. btw, check your email!
 
Chuck, each pump has its own #10 wire. The sender is a fac unit with obv thinner fac wires, 12 or 14 ga. This is how I bought this unit new. Obv it does not make sense. The bulk head connector is a fac piece. btw, check your email!
Just about every Walbro installed in these cars has been fed electricity with the factory wires.This isn't your problem. Either your pump caused this or high resistance in the circuit. Will you have the opportunity to check the relay and fuse sockets tonight?
 
ttype6, the FAC relay or the aftermarket one for the pumps??? The car is 35 min's from me at the moment but I will be there on Thursday.
 
ttype6, the FAC relay or the aftermarket one for the pumps??? The car is 35 min's from me at the moment but I will be there on Thursday.
You can check all. If you have a Hotwire,that relay powers the first pump.This is the relay I'd suspect most. There will be a fuse holder somewhere between the generator and relay. Remove the fuse and inspect. Remove the relay from its socket and inspect. If you have the second pump wired like Red recommends,it will be fed through a hobbs switch with no relay. Of course,the second pump wiring doesn't play a role in this situation.

If connections are bad,you'll find evidence of heat and corrosion at the connections. When this happens,the connections will eventually fail. You won't blow a fuse and you won't typically heat up that wire. The way that wire looks makes me suspect the pump drawing too many amps,but you have to check the other stuff. Eventually,you'll have to put the pump in some water and put some power to it to see what it does. If it works well,put it in some gasoline to flush out the water. You don't want to test it in gasoline in case,well you know.
 
Thanks man, the fuse is in exc cond. I took it out to look. I did not take the relay apart to see how that looked though. The secondary pump is wired exactly the way you stated. The pump is dead, nothing, nada. Dead dead. So i cant test it for anything. Question is will the new walbro fit in the sending unit?? I cannot afford a $600 double pumper. I perfer to double check my grounds and relay and swap out pump, pump connector and wire.
 
yes, mine as well. and it did not respond. the pump connector is also burnt inside. Do you think this setup with reds new pump be good for 590 rwhp?? Before I dropped the tank I check voltage and all was good. I also bypassed the hobbs switch for the hell of it and the secondary pump went on.
 
This is a Reds double pumper. The problem is these pumps and hanger were built around 1997 or 98 time frame. That was the last time this style was used. The current pumps he uses will not fit this double pump hanger/set up. I would almost bet your gonna have to come up with an older pump or get a complete new double pumper. Call Red but I'm almost 100% sure this is what your gonna run into.
 
Well, after 7 years my primary pump stopped working. I dropped the tank down and was shocked to see the power wire in the fuel pump assemble got so hot it melted its own insulation, fuel pump socket and a piece of the gas tank baffle! The harness was getting 13.8 volts at idle, grounds were excellent and everything was done right including relay. Had no issues for about 7 years. The secondary pump still works. I am wondering if the primary pump wire is to thin to take the 13.8 volts?? i doubt it though. Any comments??

Priceless.
Your rusted sender and bulkhead wiring are scrap.
Does not look like Teflon wire was used in the tank?

Each pump should be on its own dedicated fused circuit.
The factory over-molded bulkhead wiring is inadequate for dual HP pumps.
 
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