What head gaskets are folks using these days?

J-Rod

Member
Joined
May 25, 2001
Blew a head gasket because of a lean condition (got that fixed). We were running the stock Victor gaskets on the car with a set of GN1's.

Just wondering what folks are running these days. We had tried to use the O-Ring Fel-Pros originally, but had lots of issues withthe o-ring grovves. So we milled the heads and swapped to the stock Victors.

We were going through a "learning curve" with the max effort setup, and lifted a head.


So I was wondering what folks had to say about head gaskets these days. Stock GM / Victor, steel stack, Cometics, etc...

The car setup is

3.8 .020 over w/JE's
stock rods with ARP bolts
ported GN1's with ARP bolts
TA64e
THDP
billet caps + girdle
BGC intake
70MM Accufab
CAS FMIC
Steve's 16 pos Max effort chip
72# inj
Red's double pumper
 
The stock GM piece is obviously great, and I've also used the Fel-Pro 9441PT, which is virtually identical. It can also be had from any local parts store easily, which is nice.

I have no personal experience with the Cometics, but opinions on head gaskets are as varied as they can be.

g'luck.
 
With the bottom end of your motor as strong as you can get it, I would go with Cometics and be done with head gasket issues or worries. Install dry with 90 lbs on ARP bolts. Not sure of torque for studs.

Mitch
 
I'm using a single steel shim gasket, using clear permatex silicone as a sealant (per Lawrence Conley suggestion) held together with ARP studs.

HOW
 
I just ordered the Cometic Gaskets and will be using ARP studs, soI will let you know how it hold together. I was told this is probably the best combo to go with

Mike
 
Mike,

You may already know this but ARP will tell you to cycle the studs/nuts at LEAST 5 times before doing the final torque.

Good luck,
HOW
 
what do you mean by cycle before final torque? I know I have to tighten in a specific pattern and dont fully torque on first rotation is this what you mean??

Mike
 
In proper sequence, tighten to spec, then loosen, then tighten to spec....do this "cycle" at least 5 times, actually the more the better according to ARP.
I did the cycle bit using an old gasket

HOW
 
Originally posted by HellOnWheels
In proper sequence, tighten to spec, then loosen, then tighten to spec....do this "cycle" at least 5 times, actually the more the better according to ARP.
I did the cycle bit using an old gasket

HOW

Mike,

Another important factor is to use ARP's assy lube, you can use other lube's but ARP highly recommends their lube.

HOW
 
arp did not provide me with any lube when I ordered the studs through Summit. Is this something I need to get then, and where can I get it?? Thanks for all the help


MIke
 
Originally posted by 87gn/92ty
arp did not provide me with any lube when I ordered the studs through Summit. Is this something I need to get then, and where can I get it?? Thanks for all the help


MIke


Yes it will have to be purchased separetly from either Summit or Jegs.

It would sure as heck make more sense if it came with their fasteners.

HOW
 
ARP fasterners should come in an ARP box, with a small container (like a mayo or ketchup packet) with ARP moly lube in them.


Anyhow, anyone ele have any insight, I need to get this buttoned up, and am looking for any more input folks might have on the gaskets.
 
How much boost have your Cometic's seen, and how much torque did you put on the studs/bolts?
 
Aggresive Performance put my long block, so I don't know about torque specifics. And, after 2000 miles I only been up to 23 lb psi.
 
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