Well, its IMO true the head is the limiter.

What Turbo kit is $2000? I know Hawks sells a complete kit for around that much, but where else? There's other parts that are the same for both cars. Like the fuel systems, tires, rear ends. Blah blah blah.
 
I know the newer motors can make a ton of power, but the cost can still get up there.
 
I know the newer motors can make a ton of power, but the cost can still get up there.


Price what it takes to get a LC2 to run 140 in a TTA ... then tell me how viable it is compared to $2700

I would be willing to bet you have that much in a mid 11 second TTA
 
Price what it takes to get a LC2 to run 140 in a TTA ... then tell me how viable it is compared to $2700

I would be willing to bet you have that much in a mid 11 second TTA
I'm definitely not arguing with you. You just answered my question. Going 140 MPH even with an ls is still going to cost quite a bit. Less than an lc2, but still a lot.
 
I'd have never expected to raise such a debate, but I think at this juncture I'm willing to finally concede that a TTA is a "nostalgia" car. Fun for sure, but I'm done trying to aim to run with the fast late models. It's just a little sad to see guys I used to work-over running fast enough that I'm not going to even try going after them.
 
I'd have never expected to raise such a debate, but I think at this juncture I'm willing to finally concede that a TTA is a "nostalgia" car. Fun for sure, but I'm done trying to aim to run with the fast late models. It's just a little sad to see guys I used to work-over running fast enough that I'm not going to even try going after them.


And your doing the TTA a great justice... enjoy the car for what it is .. it really is an AWESOME car .. and just look for how long its been competitive...
 
For guys pushing the iron TTA heads just do what I have been doing for years on them. Pin the decks like Pro Stock guys did in the 70's. Drill holes down from the inside of the valve cover side of the head. Drill centered over where the fire ring is on the intake side. Tap the upper surface and just let the drill touch the inside of the lower surface to create a drill start. Use a quality bolt and machine the end of the bolt to match the drill tip angle. Tighten the bolt with JB weld on the threads and using a dial indicator preload the deck .0005" then take a cut off wheel and cut the bolt down almost flush with the upper surface.
On the out board side of the head repeat these steps in two places on each side of the spark plug boss, again centered over the fire ring of the head gasket.
This should be done on a mill to be precise, but a drill press will work fine, too. I use to do this to the GN castings (except on the exhaust side) but now with big injectors we don't seem to have issues blowing head gaskets like we did in 1988. If you need any additional info PM me for my phone number and I can walk anyone through this simple mod.
 
For guys pushing the iron TTA heads just do what I have been doing for years on them. Pin the decks like Pro Stock guys did in the 70's. Drill holes down from the inside of the valve cover side of the head. Drill centered over where the fire ring is on the intake side. Tap the upper surface and just let the drill touch the inside of the lower surface to create a drill start. Use a quality bolt and machine the end of the bolt to match the drill tip angle. Tighten the bolt with JB weld on the threads and using a dial indicator preload the deck .0005" then take a cut off wheel and cut the bolt down almost flush with the upper surface.
On the out board side of the head repeat these steps in two places on each side of the spark plug boss, again centered over the fire ring of the head gasket.
This should be done on a mill to be precise, but a drill press will work fine, too. I use to do this to the GN castings (except on the exhaust side) but now with big injectors we don't seem to have issues blowing head gaskets like we did in 1988. If you need any additional info PM me for my phone number and I can walk anyone through this simple mod.
I've done similar with an end mill to achieve a very good surface to press against with the fastener using to preload. I preloaded .001" then resurfaced after preloading. I did the intake side because of the lack of support in that area. Never had a problem on the ex side. The spark plug boss adds material where it's needed.


BPE2013@hotmail.com
 
The GN heads (8445) are well supported but the TTA heads are not. I have heads all cut apart to verify weaknesses. The GN heads exhaust side is ALOT stronger. To get the pin located on the 8445 castings in the right spot you need to mill the rocker pedistal a lot. I have pics somewhere of the 8445 heads I can post if anyone is interested in the process. I only have one set of TTA heads on the shelf but could do the mod and post pics if someone wanted to buy a set of ported TTA heads for my "troubles". It would take me a few months to do the work. I will be laid up for awhile for surgery soon.
 
The GN heads (8445) are well supported but the TTA heads are not. I have heads all cut apart to verify weaknesses. The GN heads exhaust side is ALOT stronger. To get the pin located on the 8445 castings in the right spot you need to mill the rocker pedistal a lot. I have pics somewhere of the 8445 heads I can post if anyone is interested in the process. I only have one set of TTA heads on the shelf but could do the mod and post pics if someone wanted to buy a set of ported TTA heads for my "troubles". It would take me a few months to do the work. I will be laid up for awhile for surgery soon.
Start a thread and I'll make it a sticky


BPE2013@hotmail.com
 
For guys pushing the iron TTA heads just do what I have been doing for years on them. Pin the decks like Pro Stock guys did in the 70's. Drill holes down from the inside of the valve cover side of the head. Drill centered over where the fire ring is on the intake side. Tap the upper surface and just let the drill touch the inside of the lower surface to create a drill start. Use a quality bolt and machine the end of the bolt to match the drill tip angle. Tighten the bolt with JB weld on the threads and using a dial indicator preload the deck .0005" then take a cut off wheel and cut the bolt down almost flush with the upper surface.
On the out board side of the head repeat these steps in two places on each side of the spark plug boss, again centered over the fire ring of the head gasket.
This should be done on a mill to be precise, but a drill press will work fine, too. I use to do this to the GN castings (except on the exhaust side) but now with big injectors we don't seem to have issues blowing head gaskets like we did in 1988. If you need any additional info PM me for my phone number and I can walk anyone through this simple mod.
When I first started reading this I thought you were kidding until I got further down. I was envisioning taking the valve covers off, and driving some tech screws through the head in to the block. Eeek!
 
did you go 9.99 with stock tta heads on a sg1 block ?????
I went 133 mph. Could never get the 60 to match the mph so that was it for me using the TTA heads.
I don't know of anyone going faster than that on "TTA" heads
 
I hate to admit but yes I have close to 30k in tta#1397

10,500 purchase price

jack merkle motor

70gtq bb with supporting mods

roll bars built trans

9 inch

good axles

good drive shaft

xfi
 
I went 135mph with TTA heads on off center stage II block. I believe 2QUICK2B6 was there at Rockingham. I would think the extra cubes would help. That was at 26psi if I remember correctly. Any more and guess what happens,
 
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