Wastegate actuator
- Thread starter ccbrett
- Start date
Yes, shortening the rod causes more tension from the spring inside the actuator..thus keeping the wastegate flapper in the exhaust closed until more pressure is built up...thus causing an increase in boost.
You may have to pull on the rod to get it back on the wastegate flapper arm after shortening it, that is normal, just don't shorten it too much without some way of knowing if your motor is getting any knock (ie scan tool or knock gauge) otherwise you'll be destroying your motor everytime you boost it up too high.
Pump 93 gas will usually only tolerate around 16-17 psi unless you have a stock chip that has way too much timing for that....remember stock chip has higher timing for the stock 13# of boost. Most aftermarket street chips have around 18-20 degrees, stock has somewhere around 24-25 if I remember correctly.
Really......was the stock chip timing that high?
It wasn't as high as the TTA stock timing...as I just did a chip for a TTA buddy...TTA timing is at 26.5 degrees stock at WOT for 16.5# of boost...there's no way you could run that today. The GN had a few degrees lower but I'm almost certain its around 24 degrees (been a long time since I looked at the stock tables) , because remember stock max boost was 13#. No way can you crank up a stock GN to 16-17# of boost with a stock chip...bearings won't be lasting long if you don't blow a head asket first
Ok, that make sense. I guess thats why the "old school" aftermarket chips can be detrimental to these engines.......they had too much timing?
Maybe that explains why my car slowed down a bit after installing a TT chip. I had an old chip in there....god knows from who and when. But I could only run around 15psi and HAD to have some race fuel in there or octane boost for 0 knock. The car ran best of 13.8 (all stock except for exhaust and fuel pump upgrade)
With the TT chip the car slowed to 14.3....I guess I need to add some timing back in.
Maybe that explains why my car slowed down a bit after installing a TT chip. I had an old chip in there....god knows from who and when. But I could only run around 15psi and HAD to have some race fuel in there or octane boost for 0 knock. The car ran best of 13.8 (all stock except for exhaust and fuel pump upgrade)
With the TT chip the car slowed to 14.3....I guess I need to add some timing back in.
BuckeyeTroop
Active Member
- Joined
- Aug 18, 2007
I hope i'm not hijacking this thread, but this is the exact situation I am currently in. I have a TT 93 chip and basically stock running GN. Found out that I have an adj wastegate. So after the video walk through elsewhere on this site I shortened the rod slowly and my boost increased. I stopped at about 19lbs WOT according to my VDO gage. I have about a 50/50 mix of 93 octane and E85 that I was experimenting with prior to adjusting wastegate. Is the E85 saving me at this point at those levels? And by the way before anyone asks, I am an idiot because I don't have a scanmaster or knock gage yet.
TT chips are adjustable, so you may need to add a little timing, just make sure you are getting 0 knock. I think the base timing in his chips is 18 degrees, not certain on that. Old school chips do have too much timing for todays gas as well...even though its 93 octane, its still not exactly the same gas. For the most part, the old school chips either added/removed some timing in different areas, added fuel to the PE table, and made the boost scaler 100%.
TT chips and extender chips are far more advanced in their adjustability of timing and fueling at different rpms etc.
TT chips and extender chips are far more advanced in their adjustability of timing and fueling at different rpms etc.
Thanks guys good info I am getting a power logger to minitor everything before i start adjusting. I do have a TT 93 street ship. I am also going to be installing a RJC boost controller any thoughts would be appreciated. Probably need to break down and buy the alky kit.
turbofish38
Le Pétomane
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2002
Not true. Now the OEM actuator was not adjustable but if your turbo was replaced with a factory rebuilt unit than those all came with that style of WG actuator.Even the replacement actuator was adjustable so in one way it's not factory but in another way it is. One more tip you can use when somebody claims to have a low/no miles TR and it has an adjustable WG actuator.
Yes and yesIs the E85 saving me at this point at those levels? And by the way before anyone asks, I am an idiot because I don't have a scanmaster or knock gage yet.
THe E85 mix is probably letting you run that 19# ok...that is if you fuel system is keeping up since it requires more E85 for fuel than the equivalent amount of higher octane gas.Get a scan tool before hitting more than 15# of boost before you ruin your fine ride
BuckeyeTroop
Active Member
- Joined
- Aug 18, 2007
Yes and yes
Get a scan tool before hitting more than 15# of boost before you ruin your fine ride
Thanks for the info. I just bought a scanmaster off of a board member today. I think my fuel system was getting maxed out though at that level. I have a hot wire kit not yet installed but I think its the stock pump. Would just the hot wire on the stock pump get me the volume I need?
If you in fact do have a stock original pump, its probably just barely pumping enough fuel to drive it with 10# of boost. The age alone would make it weak. If its high mileage then the fuel sock that is on the pickup of the pump is probably full of all kinds of trash.
If you are unsure what pump you have in there, replace it, then you'll know for sure. Fueling is the single most important thing for a turbo'd motor, make sure its in full working order and can deliver the pressure when needed.
About $125 get you a new pump...just be careful about who you buy the pump from as there's been a slew of bad ones lately...some say its Walbro's changing owners, some say it some fake Walbros being made in China...just make sure you get it from a reputable vendor that knows about the issues and knows they aren't selling bad ones. Jack Cotton I know has spoke about this some time ago and Full Throttle was "looking into it" the last I heard.
Just as a test, when you're ready to replace it, remove the schrader valve and hook a hose up to it going to a gas can. Energize the pump and see just how much fuel flows out the hose...then do the same test once the new pump is in to see the difference..and to make sure its hooked up correctly.
My TTA has the orignal pump in it and it takes more than twice as long to pump out 3 gallons as the GN does with a Walbro 307...and the 307 is the smaller Walbro.
BuckeyeTroop
Active Member
- Joined
- Aug 18, 2007
2Quik6 Thanks for all the info.
