Vss

Best bet is to forgo the dash volt light, just forget about it. The one in my car doesn't light up either.

Then, do one of two things:

Get a field fix kit from Casper's and plug it in. Takes about 2 minutes to install.

Or, grab the PNK/BLK wire that feeds (or used to) the EGR solenoid and run it to the F terminal on the alternator connection. Will need to find another connector or move the current terminal from the L slot to the F slot and wire it to the PNK/BLK wire.

Both fixes do the same thing, just different ways to go about it. And the alternator will now charge.

RemoveBeforeFlight
 
Actually there is one more test to do, remove the connector from the alternator and ground the L terminal (only one with a wire). Now do a key-on, engine-off and check for the VOLTs light.

Light turns on: alternator is bad, replace it.

Light doesn't turn on, do the above with the field fix kit or the wiring change.

RemoveBeforeFlight
 
Unhooked alternator and jumped wire still did not light. I will take out gauges and try to push contacts out a little farther on connector
 
Check the gages fuse, bottom most one in the fuse block. Power to the VOLTs light starts there.

RemoveBeforeFlight
 
Still can't figure turn key without starting only water temp light lights. Maybe time for field fix
 
I decided to just check my alternator once. Battery with car off 12 volts, car on 14. Now what? Is it possible my dash has been altered, maybe the water temp light is suppose to be where the volt is?
 
Should the water temp light be on right before start? Took for a drive it ran fine. Check battery voltage key off 12.5 running 14.4.
 
The water temp light should be off at key-on, engine-off (or running).

It should turn on while cranking the engine to start. That is a 'bulb test' feature.

RemoveBeforeFlight
 
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